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VI “The Loveliest Fleet of Islands”
(March–April 1866)

Notebooks 5 and 6 were used in overlapping fashion, and the problems of their dating and their relation to each other are fully discussed in the headnote to Notebook 5.

Approximately one-quarter of Notebook 6 is devoted to the Ajax voyage to Hawaii and includes Mark Twain's notes about the ship and its officers, comments about his fellow passengers, and the Hawaiian information he solicited from them. The balance of the notebook is a record of his first weeks on Oahu, from arrival in Honolulu on 18 March 1866 until around mid-April, when he began his tour of the other islands. This section contains firsthand information about Hawaiian customs and the Hawaiian economy, accounts of some of the people he met, lists of places and things to investigate on Oahu and elsewhere, and a “Kanaka Lexicon” he compiled for his own use. At many points the notebook corresponds closely to his early letters to the Sacramento Union.

Notebook 6 now contains 160 pages, 18 of them blank. In design it is identical to Notebook 5, and its front cover, like that of Notebook 5, was dated “1866,” probably by Paine. Its binding is broken, the back cover and portions of some gatherings are loose, and some leaves may have been lost. With the exception of two entries in brown ink, one in black ink (the final entry in the body of the notebook, inscribed more than two months later than the rest of the notebook), and an inscription on the back cover, also in black ink, all entries are in pencil.

In preliminary attempts to identify potential material for his Sacramento Union letters, Clemens employed two apparently independent systems of marks—asterisks and numbers—to distinguish individual entries. In connection with the same effort, he numbered the notebook's first 103 pages (through p. 220.7) and began to organize the marked entries in tabular form at the back of the notebook (p. 236). But the tentative and preliminary nature of both marking systems is evident in the very casual correspondence between marked entries and Mark Twain's published Sandwich Islands writings. Clemens' asterisks and numbers are discussed in notes 3 and 147. The asterisks and numbers appear in the present text at the beginning of the entries they designate, although Clemens' erratic habits of inscription sometimes led him to center them above or to place them at the ends of entries in the manuscript. Paine's use marks, of which there are many in this notebook, are not preserved here.


[MS: N6_outside front cover]

[MS: N6_front endpaper]

[MTP: N&J1_180]

Steamer “Ajax”

Sailed from San
Francisco for Sand-
wich
Sandwich Islands, Wed-
nesday
Wednesday, March 7,
1865 1866textual note.

6 pounds ointment
to salivate so they can't
bite.

2 g ◊ ◊ was a dwarf.

force habit—couldn't
sleep without ch tobacco.

“Sleep! you might as
well try to sleep with a
coal of fire ---- !”textual note


[MS: N6_front flyleaf recto]

“I feeds the hogs, tends
Johnny & toats out”1



[MS: N6_front flyleaf verso]

blank verso


[MS: N6_leaf_001r]

[MTP: N&J1_181]

March 7—Wednes-
day
Wednesday.—Left San Fran-
cisco
Francisco 4 PM—rough
night.2


8th—Thursday—
Weather still rough—
passengers nearly
all sick.


9th—Better weather
—several passengers
came out.


[MS: N6_leaf_001v]

10th—Saturday—
Beautiful weather,
& fine breeze—car-
rying
carrying all canvass.


11th—Sunday—
Fine day, but rough
night.


12th—Monday—
Very rough & rainy
all forenoon—foresail
shredded last night.


[MS: N6_leaf_002r]

Prevailing wind
on this course is from
N. W—so have heavy
N. W. swell all time,
even in finest weather.
This dies out little above
equator.   S. E. breeze
comes round Horn &
dies out below Equa-
tor
Equator—so there is a space
of glassy calm on
both sides of line.


Rough weather on
this route 7 to 8 months
of year—spring, fall
& winter—other 4
months beautiful
weather.

1 53 Grown white
men & women, handsome
& well educated, born in
Hawaii.textual note


[MS: N6_leaf_002v]

1   Lon4 holding on by
finger-nails & leaning to
roll of ship like Capt. Cuttle.


[MTP: N&J1_182]

1 French Doctor—trav.
gets $3,000 a year.
5

1 3 2 whalers—Fish & Phillips
—latter's vessel bonded—
former's burned.


Brown6

Cowes, Steward
—ancient in prof—
fine catrer.

2 6 Capacity 60 pas-
sengers
passengers in comfort
—& 40 bunks between
decks.

1000 to 1200 tons
with coal for full trip
on—capacity.


[MS: N6_leaf_003r]

Pg—Dennis.7

Walking on the
chickns.

1 Restless—change
pillow—turn over
—roll out—tumbler
fetch away—etc.

Island of Lanai
has Mormon establish-
ment
establishment—claim 5,000 con-
verts
converts—King won't let
them practice polygamy
though.8


[MTP: N&J1_183]

Missionary denom-
inations
denominations are 4—Amer-
ican
American, Episcopalian, Cath-
olic
Catholic & Mormon.

Small island at
extreme end of groupemendation
has been bought & is
[MS: N6_leaf_003v]
owned by a single in-
dividual
individual, & was for-
a n sheep ranch—
Very rocky & barren—
formerly place where
sent convicts.

Another island
owned by 2 men.


2 Shanghai Mail
line9—5,000 ton ships
—$500,000 subsidy—
too big to go into
Hon—can't carry
any freight—al-
ways
always a sea on out-
side
outside the reef, & can't
always passengers
come out in boats.

Going down
to Hon, wind pretty
fair, but coming

would go down be-
low
below 30th parallel to
get trade winds—not
[MS: N6_leaf_004r]
so much out of way.
But coming back
will leave Shanghai
& bend around north
till above 40⁰ to get ben-
efit
benefit of the W winds—
then come straight a-
cross
across, only drop down
to strike S. F.—

So would have to
make 1,000 to 1,200 extra
on return trip, & some-
where
somewhere
though nothing
much on down trip
—lose a day at Hon.
going & another com-
ing
coming, & 4 to make extra
1,200 miles, is 6 or 7
days on trip—$1,500 a
day ship expenses: $10,000
out of added to cost of trip.



50 tons coal a day $20


[MS: N6_leaf_004v]

Louisiana plant
cane every year—lasts
3 years. Here can plant
patch
Plant in Feb (1 crop
year), commence roll
in October. Here plant
patch every week in year
—roll every week in
year—plant last 7 or 8
years. In Lou, preca-
rious
precarious—always fear of
frost—here no fear of it
—no fear of anything.
In Lou $300 an acre an
extraordinarily large yield
—as much as can be got
out of it—here get $7 & $800.


One small refinery
in Hon.



[MTP: N&J1_184]

Pine-apples begin
come in next month.


[MS: N6_leaf_005r]

5

Fancy milliners, & a newspaper
H Gazettee in a place one is accus-
tomed
accustomed to think of as a
land where s dark sava-
ges
savages live & other dark
savages come from
some mysterious lo-
cality
locality as they did with
Crusoe, & have great
battles & then eat up the
prisoners. Then get in
their canoes & disap-
pear
disappear—where? Over
the sea to dreamland,
maybe.

5

“All the companies”
(firemen) & “chf. Eng'r.”


5 5

Barbarism & high
civilization so close
together—religion refinement
superstition bestiality.


[MS: N6_leaf_005v]

1 Weather side—good
deal weather on all
sides.

No reptiles or insects
formerly save lice—mos-
quitos
mosquitoes produced by dig-
ging
digging well.

No more water, s'il
vous plait.

  Cool from 12 to
sunrise—want bedclothes.


Keep water in mon-
key
monkey10—get cool drink in
window before sun-
rise
sunrise—no ice or snow
there—not enough for-
eigners
foreigners.


[MS: N6_leaf_006r]

Moa—(ghost) tuer
any one qu'elle take
pour Moa.11


Hawaians indolent
& no tenacity of life—no
vitality. For least possible
excuse will lay down & die.


Never refuse to do a
kindness except unless
the act would work great
injury to yourself, & never
refuse to take a drink
—under any circum-
stances
circumstances.

Rise early—it is the
early bird that catches
the worm. Don't be
fooled by this absurd saw.
I once knew a man who
tried it. He got up at
sunrise & a horse
bit him. Another


[MS: N6_leaf_006v]

[MTP: N&J1_185]

Cant make stick
with only one end.

Tricks upon Travelers.

Hotels addndtextual note stables add prices on
steamer passengers.

 American hotel.
—hall with open win-
dows
windows at either end.

Floriponda—long
bell shaped white flower—
on tree like fig—blooms
once month—fragrant
at night.

Ginger flower—
same the root comes
from—sred striped white
wax like flower when
not in full bloom—very
pleasant ginger fragrance.

Cocoa—tamarind
—oleander—


[MS: N6_leaf_007r]

3

Tremendous
solitudes of the
Pacific—a lonely
sea—no land
in sight for ten
days—& never a
solitary ship in
sight.


Consul at Hon-
olulu
Honolulu—salary $4,000
—no fees.,textual note allowed—all
go to Government.

Last quarter, en-
tire
entire Government fees,
hospital revenues, &c.,
amounted to $21,000,
as returned to Amer-
can
American Commissioner.12
All absorbed in Gov-
ernment
Government expenses, &
more called for.

Consul has created
a system of private
[MS: N6_leaf_007v]
fees. For instance—
clerical fees—such
as powers of attorney
& other notarial work
—he gets it all to do,
charges what he pleases,
& keeps the money. For
paying off a ship's
crew he charges 2½ p.c.
(Harbor Master has
learned this dodge from
him & charges same
for native crews.)

Consul appoints
Purveyor for Hospital.13
Each sailor gets full

[MTP: N&J1_186]
suit clothing when he
enters hospital, & an-
other
another when he leaves.
He & consul make
about 100 per cent on
these. Purveyor ap-
pointment
appointment should be
taken from him & con-
[MS: N6_leaf_008r]
tracts let to lowest
bidder.

Purveyor also gets
about 85 cents a
day for boarding
each invalid, & out
of this pays hospital
rent—4 or $500 a year.
Costs him 30 or 40 cents
a day per man.
Have had over 200
men in hospital
at one time—400 suits
clothing for season.
No price set by Gov't
on clothing. Present
consul appointed his
brother-in-law pur-
veyor
purveyor at first.

One consul took
the $36 sailor fund
home with him once
(held sacred, now), s& had
to disgorge—said he
[MS: N6_leaf_008v]
didn't know what to
do with it. It must
be kept here, because
don't know what mo-
ment
moment sailor may ship
for home & call for
his $24 out of it.

Dougherty venir wh $5000—has 125 to
$150,000 in 4 yrs.

“Slops” are clothing,
tobacco, &c, furnished
sailors at sea & charged
against them. Sailor's
advance is $40—he may
find $10 for boots which
he got, $40 for boots
which he didn't get, &c
on return —be actu-
ally
actually in debt—in which
case the government
fee of $1 for discharg-
ing
discharging him is remitted

“Long lay is the
Captains & mates 10th
20th & 30th share of a
[MS: N6_leaf_009r]
whaling voyage.

“Short(?) lay is a
common seaman's
120th of the same.

Captains swindle
sailors out of every
dollar they can by
the slop system, &
every cent so saved
goes alone to owners.
But the ungrateful
owners, by false gauges
of oil,
quotations of mar-
kets
markets, false sales,
&c pretended non-
sales & deprecia-
tion
depreciation of price, &c,
swindle the captains.

The consul, in
buying the cargo from
the sailors, reduce it
some by putting it on
gold basis, by leakage,
shrinkage, margin
[MS: N6_leaf_009v]
for depreciation
from ruling rates,
&c, reduce the value
of a cargo ⅔.


“Pulling” is the ar-
rest
arrest of Capt by sea-
men
seamen for ill treatment.



[MTP: N&J1_187]

Portuguese green-
ies
greenies often put on short
lay of 300th—go to sea
—learn how been swin-
dled
swindled—desert first op-
portunity
opportunity to ship offers
more.


Governing classes
& agriculturists first
put $100 bonds on ship-
ment
shipment of natives to break
it up—then $300. As
it hasn't succeeded,
they will make effort
[MS: N6_leaf_010r]
coming session to pro-
hibit
prohibit their being car-
ried
carried away from isl-
ands
islands altogether. Both
papers support it.

Result will be to
terribly inconve-
nience
inconvenience, cripple &
possibly destroy
commerce, wha-
ling
whaling & guano trade.

TPlanters like
Kanaks best on the
farm—industrious,
tractable, can un-
derstand
understand them, can
get them in debt
& keep them. Not so
with coolies.

The Tooker mat-
ter
matter is used as a great
argument in favor
of prohibiting ship-
ment
shipment of Kanakas.14


[MS: N6_leaf_010v]

Government
Consular fees are:


Entry & deposit
of ship papers—$5.

Shipping each
man, 50 cents—$1 for
discharging each.


Consul at La-
haina
Lahaina get $3000.


Consul at Hilo
no fees—ab salary
—fees about $600.


Physician here
gets $4,500—no fees.


[MS: N6_leaf_011r]

blank recto


[MS: N6_leaf_011v]

blank verso


[MS: N6_leaf_012r]

blank recto


[MS: N6_leaf_012v]

Young Thurston
made 1st sermon in
Fort street church
Sunday eveing before 25th
his old father & mother
(missionary 46 years)
present—feeling re-
marks
remarks of minister in
his prayer about the old
people being spared to
hear the son they had
dedicated to the Lord—
very affecting.15



[MTP: N&J1_188]

Corwin salary $2,000
—Damon $800 from Amer-
ican
American Seaman's friend so-
ciety
society,16 & $800 more. Old
Thurston gets pension
less than $700 from
Amer. Mission Socity.
Board.textual note17



[MS: N6_leaf_013r]

March 12, Sunday. Monday


1 Roughest night of
the voyage last night
—ship rolled heavily.

1 Still rougher this
morning till 11 o'ck,
when course was al-
tered
altered to W., which eased
her up considerably.

Settee fetched away
at breakfast, & pre-
cipitated
precipitated 4 heavy men
on their backs.


1 Rev. Mr. Thurston,
Capt Smith & family
(Lon) Ye Ancient Mar-
iner
Mariner—Sea Monster—
Capt Cuttle18—“Don't like
gale
[MTP: N&J1_189]
holding on so close
to change of moon—if
holds 48 hours will hang
on through the quarter.”

“If wind don't haul
[MS: N6_leaf_013v]
around with sun won't
have fair wind—no
fair wind comes but
comes with sun.”

Yarns of force
of sea—68 pounders
on Helena, forty ft above
water, in calm—Great
Repub decks broke in—
15,000 tons of 1 30-ton rockstextual note
moved back 300 yards
& left in winrow—
decks stripped clean
with gentle sea—27
stancions, &c.

Moral Phenomenon.textual note

1 Haven't reached
the boasted d—d “trades”
yet—may reach them
to-morrow.


1 Were ½ way (1,050 miles)
at noon to-day.


[MS: N6_leaf_014r]

Water taken in mod-
eration
moderation cannot hurt
anybody.

1 13th—Tuesday—Very
rough again all night
—had head winds & had
to take in all sail—
made poor run—
weather fine this mor-
ning
morning, but still head
winds, & there being
not a rag of canvass
on to steady the ship,
she rolls disagreeably,
though the sea is not
rough. H

1 14th—Wednesday—
Good weather. I have
suffered from something
like mumps for past 2 days.


[MS: N6_leaf_014v]

15th Thursday.    1

Dress by the lat-
itude
latitude & longitude—
Capt & Chf Eng
came out in full
summer rig to-day
because by the sex-
tant
sextant we are in
lat. 26⁰ though
the weather don't
justify it.

4     

15th Thurday—
Mumps—mumps
—mumps—it
was so decided
to-day—a d—d
disease that chil-
dren
children have—
I suppose I am
[MS: N6_leaf_015r]
to take a new
disease to the
Islands & de-
populate
depopulate them,
as all white
men have done
heretofore.


[MTP: N&J1_190]

2 Mr. Sanford
Ch Eng been in
US service 16
years—been in
7 battles in Mex
& 6 in America.

2 Mr Baxter,
Mate, been on
gunboat in the
war, too. & Captain, Godfrey.

Heavily timbered, strong
bolted ship. 2


[MS: N6_leaf_015v]

2   3 watches, repeated of 8
bells each—each
beginning at 12
o'clock & ending at 12.
1st watch mo evening—12 to 4—2d, 4 to 8
—3d, 8 to 12. Morning watch
midnight to 4, 4 to 8, 8 to
noon.

In Honolulu, you
can treat a Kanankatextual note
as much as you
please, but he cannot
treat you. No one is
allowed to sell liquor
to the natives, & an in-
fraction
infraction of this law
is visited with a heavy
penalty. It is evaded
by using back doors,
as is the custom in
civilized countries.

It is not lawful
to hire out a horse or
[MS: N6_leaf_016r]
vehicle on Sunday
—all such prepara-
tions
preparations must be made
day before. This
& the liquor law show
where Hawaii's system
of laws originated
(with Missionaries,) &
how firm a hold &
how powerful a su-
premacy
supremacy these peo-
ple
people have gained by
their 46 years of
breeding & training
voters & law m
clannish law makers
in their own ever-
increasing descend-
ants
descendants more than a-
mong
among the “fashionably”
religious and deci-
mating
decimating natives.


[MS: N6_leaf_016v]

1

16th March—Friday
—They say we shall be
in sight of land to-mor-
row
to-morrow at noon. Good
weather & a smooth
sea for the past 2 days.

Dennis the hog
was killed yesterday
& served up for break-
fast
breakfast this morning.

1 The water begins to
taste of the casks.

1

Brown's boots are all
one-sided with bracing
to the lurching of the
ship—& his nose is skinned
by a vomiting cup—thinks
he will have cause of ac-
tion
action against the company
yet.


[MS: N6_leaf_017r]

The usual chatter
of the gens d'armes. servants.textual note

4 Passengers all come
venir pour me voir.

1 Condensed steam
water to cook with.


[MTP: N&J1_191]

8 demijohns whisky.

3 Ye solemn glory of
ye moon upon ye
midnigt se.

Old Gov. (native) on voyage
between isles lost—
turn around & go back
where we came h-- from.

17th—St Patrick's
Day—St Pat's Dinner
& Dennis prematurely
dead. Reported to be

[MS: N6_leaf_017v]
160 miles from Hon-
olulu
Honolulu at noon.

1 “Ship time”—(taken
with the sextant reckon-
ing
reckoning every day at noon.)

Ye whalers at
Euchre. “Who hove
that ace on there?” “You keep
“He kep' heavin' on
'em down so fast
I couldn't tell noth'n
'tall a'bouttextual note it.” “Here
goes for a euchre—
by G— I'll make a
point or break a
rope-yarn .” Call
small odd suit “blub-
ber
blubber.” “Now what'd
you trump that for?
—Your'e sailin' too
close to the wind.”
there, I know'd it—
royals, stuns'ls—ev-

[MS: N6_leaf_018r]
erything, gone to h—l.
“That's my ace!—no
t'aint—it's mine—you
hove the King—

No such Not by
a d—d sight!—rot
my coppers if I didn't
hove the King—leave
it to Johnny here if I
did.”

Whaler drink—¾
of tumblerfull.) 1


Capt. Smith secesh.19

The Bullock named af-
ter
after Capt Dimond20 be-
cause
because he lay abe never
got up for 5 days.

Brown & the Steward
& waiters.


1

Stewardess.—Capts. al-
ways
always doctors.


[MS: N6_leaf_018v]

[MTP: N&J1_192]

King strongly fa-
vors
favors English, on account
of attentions shown him
when in England & the
reverse shown him
in the U.S. (Va. planter
said wouldn't sit at table
wh nigger)
& favors all
foreigners much more
than Americans—
so, Americans are at
discount in Honolulu,
& possess small influence
—on which account,
& to curry favor, no
foreigner will buy any-
thing
anything of an American
which he can get of an
Englishman. All money
in hands of foreigners
circulates among
foreigners pretty ex-
clusively
exclusively, & on other
hand, Americans
[MS: N6_leaf_019r]
who have any spirit
retaliate by dealing
with Americans pretty
exclusively. The
American Hotel is
kept by a Dutchman.21
Ten Americans
there where one for-
eigner
foreigner, but the “influ-
ence
influence” plays the devil,
nevertheless. En-
All English men-of-
war foster this par-
tiality
partiality of the King by
flattering him & show-
ing
showing him royal honors
& attentions.

1 Night of 17th—Never
could swear to being
in the tropics by the weather
till to-night—hot as hell
in the state-rooms. Mag-
nificent
Magnificent breezy starlight
night & new moon on deck—
everybody out.



[MS: N6_leaf_019v]

1 Brown sleep in
his shelf.

3 18th—8 A.M. Sun-
day
Sunday—Land in sight
on left—like a couple of
vague whales lying
in blue mist under
the distant horizon.


illustration


Oahu glinting in
the sun through
light mist—20 miles
away.


illustration


This is the most
magnificent, balmy
atmosphere in the
world—ought to take
dead man out of grave.


[MS: N6_leaf_020r]

[MTP: N&J1_193]

“Dr. Gambarelli
Bechtinger, $10 fee for
medical attendance
on Capt. Phillips”—
& then ate $4 worth of
Brown's lunch.

Chn say—“Well, I don't
care, my grandfather
ate your grandfather.”textual note

American Chn

say, “Well, I don't care, my
father big brother can whip your father big brother
if he wants to.”

3

Flag of any kind at the
fore calls a pilot.

3

We went in with stars
& stripes at main-spen-
cers
spencers gaff, & Hawaiian
flag at the fore. The
Union is the St George's

see page after next.textual note


[MS: N6_leaf_020v]

2

Harp Engine laid
horizontally—normal
condition vertical—
gives great compact-
ness
compactness & leaves no
portion of machi-
nery
machinery above water
line—Ajax was built
for gun boat.

2

Temperature of
fire-room (no ventila-
tion
ventilation,) 148⁰. Firemen
only live about 5 years,
& then probably don't
mind hell much.

2

Screw 13 inches
diameter, 70 feet long
—flukes 13 feet diam-
eter
diameter, 22½ feet p◊◊


[MS: N6_leaf_021r]

(Go back 2 pages.) 3textual note

Cross of England—bal-
ance
balance is American
flag except that there
is a blue as well as a
red & white stripe in
it. The blue stripe makes
it part of French flag.
There is nothing national
about it except the num-
ber
number of stripes—7—one
for each inhabited island.22


3     

Running past Dia-
mond
Diamond Head on about
100 foot water—beautiful
light blue color—see
shadow of bottom
sometimes— water very
transparent—water
shames the pale heavens
with the splendor of its
brilliant blue.



[MS: N6_leaf_021v]

3

Come to Waikiki
4½ miles before get to
Honlulu— beautiful
drive—fine road.


[MTP: N&J1_194]

1 French Drs odd
positions & actions
& dress—guitar—
travels— head low
& to leeward, heels
on shelf—carried handsful grub
away from table.

3 Arrivd at noonemendation
Sunday—fired gun
—10 days & 6 hours
out— could have
got in last night
just after dark


3

Channel very
narrow but straight
& well buoyed.—not
[MS: N6_leaf_022r]
wide enough for 2
ships at once hardly.


3 Custom House boat
came off with flag.


McMillan pilot


3

McIntyre, pilot.emendationold
burly gray bearded
Scot.textual note

3

King sat in two-
horse buggy, alone, on
wharf—big whiskers
old leather complexion
—broad gold band on
plug hat—band of
gold around lap-
pels
lappels of coat.

No—King's dri-
ver
driver—speculation
wrong.


[MS: N6_leaf_022v]

3 Crowd 4 or 500

Females on horse-
back
horsebackemendation.

3 Sunday stillness
—natives sitting in
shade of houses on
ground.


3 Absence of spring
of ship to footstep.

Walker, Allen & Co.
have the major part of
the sugar & molasses
trade & give it to
Brooks & Co's line

Brewer & Co
will own & control
major part of it
in 2 months


[MS: N6_leaf_023r]

  People here
smoke manila
cigars & drink ev-
erything
everything.


Aristocratic church—23    

Long street dark-
est
darkest in the world, down
to the Esplanade—
width 3 buggies abreast.
—couldn't get out of
it & so found my way.24



[MTP: N&J1_195]

No native church
to-night.


Found Rev. Mr.
Rising there.

American hHotels
gougestextual note Californians
chargestextual note sailing
passengers eight
dollars a week for
[MS: N6_leaf_023v]
board, but steamer
passengers ten.

Charley Richards25
keeps a tremendous
spider & 2 lizards
for pets. I would
like to sleep with
him if he would
get a couple of
snakes or so.


  Honolulu hos-
pitality
hospitality. Richards
said: “Come in—
sit down— take off
your coat & boots
—take a drink. Here
is a pass-key to the
li liquor & cigar
cupboard—put
it in your pocket—
two doors to this
house—stand
wide open night
[MS: N6_leaf_024r]
& day from Janu-
ary
January till January
—no locks on them
—march in when-
ever
whenever you feel like
it, take as many
drinks & cigars
as you want, &
make yourself
at home.”


 Capt. Phillips
said: “This is my
end of the house
& that is Asa's—
the door's always
open—the demi-
johns
demijohnsemendation are behind
the door —come
in when you feel
like it—take a drink,
take a smoke—
pull wash your feet
ointextual note the water pitcher
if you want to—
[MS: N6_leaf_024v]
wipe 'em on the bed-
clothes
bedclothesemendation—break the
furniture—spit
on the table-cloth
—throw the things
out doors—make
yourself comfortable
—make yrself at
home.


Capt. Drew—
“Run agin me, will
you, son of a b——
Dodge, will you, son
of a b——? Run,
will you, son of a b——

Challenged by
imaginary Eng-
lish
English naval officer
choosetextual note harpoons
—backed down—
man of family—
you touched my
tender
[MTP: N&J1_196]
point there,
Charley. Was ad-
[MS: N6_leaf_025r]
vised to leave—& did.
Stopped at Robson's
Said “If anybody
asks for me, tell 'em
I passed here at a
¼ past 9—P.—M.”
Had 2 miles of chap-
paral
chapparal behind his
house 1 ½ miles up
valley. Said “If
they kin find me
there—let 'em!”
Didn't show him-
self
himself for 4 weeks.—
Thought to cure
him of drinking—
he found 20 gal-
lons
gallons Anderson's
whisky on the place
—drank it all up.


✱ 1      

Our whalers drank
18 gallons whisky
on way down—said
they had to—if they
[MS: N6_leaf_025v]
couldn't show a
good record, their
owners would lose
confidence in them.


T used by Cath-
olics
Catholics—L used by
Protestants—na-
tives
natives use both—
Towi & Lowi.26

13 letters in
Hawaiian alpha-
bet
alphabet—each a dis-
tinct
distinct sound—
3 vowels (o's) yo-
gether
together sometimes,
but each an in-
dependent
independent sound
—no trouble to
learn to pro-
nounce
pronounce.27 Have
a large lexicon28 & a small
phrase-book.29



[MS: N6_leaf_026r]

[MTP: N&J1_197]

3 King sitting
on barrel on wharf
fishing.

Gov. Domini's
wife (native)—Gov.
of Oahu—rides
native fashion.30


3 King showed
Asa Nudd greater
attention than he
ever showed for-
eign
foreign civilian before
—in return for
his hospitality in
California.31


Water lemon.

Shittim wood


3 1 Cigar man at San
F. swindled me.textual note

2 Whistler left day we arrived & Behring few
days after—21 days out—both just in.
—Onward is making long passage
—not in yet.textual note32


[MS: N6_leaf_026v]

Couldn't understand
the bear-skin mats
on floors—whalers
bring them.


Heavy dew.


Ka-meaa-meeah Ka-meea-meeahtextual note

3

Ka-meeah-meeah.

Mr. Rising—first
sprained & nervous
prostration—worn
out with study & labor
—health not much
improved


[MS: N6_leaf_027r]

American Mission-
aries
Missionaries, who began the work
on the islands & have
really civilized &
Christianized this
people. And that
church which claims
to be the Hawaiian
Established Church
—King
[MTP: N&J1_198]
& royal family
attend it. An Bishop
& several clergy of
Church Eng sent
out here, & then to
give it an Amer-
ican
American cast,—brought
over 2 or 3 Ameri-
can
American Episcopalians33


Question—whether
this is not an indirect
means of getting pos-
session
possession (by influence—
treaty bet Fr & Eng is they
[MS: N6_leaf_027v]
shall never be dis-
turbed
disturbed in their inde-
pendence
independence)34 French
got possession of
the Society & more
recently the Mar-
quesas
Marquesas by means of
Romish Clergy.35


[MTP: N&J1_199]

They sent priests
here36—King said his
people been rescued
from idolatry—
wouldn't have any
more of it—
sent them away.
Man of war brought
another priest dis-
guised
disguised as merchant
—found out— or-
dered
ordered away—ship
threatened burn town
—allowed remain
under protest—
ship brought back
the banished priests
[MS: N6_leaf_028r]
from Mexico—one
is now Bishop here
& lives in palace.

We all know
how France would
regard treaty, if she
could once get pos-
sesion
possession.


Damon—“The Friend”
—first issue 18th Jan
1843—never stopped
but one month—
year—Bethel preacher
—asks no assistance
in its issue from any
religious society.

Began before there
was a type set w any-
where
anywhere from Cape Horn
to Behring's Straits
west of Andes & Rocky.

Beloved by all—he &
wife always collecting & car-
ing
caring for the poor. Old whalers
like him.37


[MS: N6_leaf_028v]

[MTP: N&J1_200]

Everybody use
umbrellas—I don't
have any use for
them.

Oh, islands there are
on the face of deep
Where the leaves never fade
& the skies never weep.38

Went with Mr. Damon
to his cool, vine shaded
home39—you bet your life.

No care-worn or
eager, anxious faces
in the land of happy con-
tentment
contentment—God! what
a contrast with Califor-
nia
California & Washoe.

Everybody walk
at a moderate gait—
though to speak strictly,
they mostly ride.


[MS: N6_leaf_029r]

This house & chapel
where he preaches
were built by Sea-
man’s
Seaman's Friend Society
of NY—33—Rev. John
Dea Diell40—here till
'40—died of consump-
tion
consumption on way home
off Cape Horn '41
—Damon arrived
fall of '42, been here
ever since—except
visit home of a year,
& one to Cal in '49
—he & Gwynn made
their debut in Cal at
same time & both
sp officiated at 4th July
in Sac that year41—he
made
[MTP: N&J1_201]
prayer & G was
ol spoke—while they
were cutting down
trees to build the
town—only ½ dozen
houses there.


[MS: N6_leaf_029v]

He preached first
sermon ever preached
in Stockton—Whatso-
ever
Whatsoever a man sowith,
that shall he also
reap. Man cleared
out his bar for him.textual note
—only 2 houses there—
one of them Weber's42
—balance tents.43

See Friend44   Sandwich Island
Mirror—started here
by R. J. Howard, Sept.
7, 1839.—lasted year or two.
First Second, paper in ever printed
in English.

First one was
S. I. Gazette, by S. D.
Mackintosh & Co, Au-
gust
August 1836—lasted a
year or two,
to '39.

Hawaiian Spec
tator
Spectator published quarterly
Jan 38 to Oct 39—most
[MS: N6_leaf_030r]
excellent magazine
—conducted by “an as-
sociation
association of gentle-
men
gentlemen.”

Polynesian by J.
J. Jarvis—June '40—
died Dec 41

The Friend monthy,
Jan 43 to present

Polynesian revived
May 44—lasted 20 years
—always paid its own
way—others supportd
by government.

Hawaiian Cascade
Nov. 44 to Aug 45 by
Hawaian Total Ab Union

Monitor, monthly,
Jan to Dec 45. Rev.
D. Dole.


Friend May 6545
Revenue derived by US
Gov for one or
[MTP: N&J1_202]
two words
400,000textual note
Nat Ingols was the
[MS: N6_leaf_030v]
greatest accountant
we ever had here
—died lately in S. F.


American
Comr $7000 gold

May have a clerk
—Govt pay $1,800.


Landed Sunday
—bells ringing
for church—
found 2 large
native
[MTP: N&J1_203]
Prot Cch
—1 Cath do do
—when landed all
these in full blast.: 46


[MS: N6_leaf_031r]

Rev. Eli Corwin
Fort street Congrega-
tional
Congregational—preached 8
years ago in San José
for several years & was
once Secretary of State
Ag Soc Cal.47

Bethel is oldest
—30 yrs.

We larm of man
who preaches in
what is called the
King's Chapel (na-
tive
native cch)—Rev.
H. H. Parker, son of
one of the old Mis-
sionaries
Missionaries—a young
man, born e & well
educated here—never
been away—very
fine orator & thorough
in native language.48



[MS: N6_leaf_031v]

College here 20
years old.49 Rev.
Mr. Alexander Prest,
– – –
[MTP: N&J1_204]
Philologist—
sent for that book
poetry from Mar-
quesas
Marquesas islands.
born here—grad. Yale, 2d of class of 100
—one of finest Greek scholars every produced
50

Marquesas
poorest group in
Pacif—20 forign-
ers
forigners—6000 natives.


Sandwich most
valuable in world.


  Week be ago
this concert—all
by natives—& man-
aged
managed by entirely by
Hawians—& they
raised $1175 for
—proceeds—for
an organ for King's
chapel:51


[MS: N6_leaf_032r open]

Grand Hawaiian Concert Programme


[MS: N6_leaf_032r closed]


[MS: N6_leaf_032v]

  Papers.52

2 weekly native

N. “Kuakoa”

Eng— (Independent)

and

“Okoa”

(Light)

2 weekly Eng.

“Advertizer”

and

“Gazette”

and

Monthly

“The Friend”



[MS: N6_leaf_033r]

Just issued the
l Second volume law
reports Supreme
Court—elegantly
printed & bound
—800 pages—in a
shape do honor to
any printers.53


[MTP: N&J1_205]

Could hardly
find town in heart
New England where
Union sentiment
was so strong as
here during War.

Northern States Whalers.

 Hear a good deal
of Opera singing around
this town—& pianos.54

Jim Ayres, McGeorge
& Rising.


[MS: N6_leaf_033v]

Union Question.textual note

N. Y. Eve Post
Jan. 16, 1866:55

clipping; see facsimile


[MS: N6_leaf_034r]

 Literature. 1 letter.


[MTP: N&J1_206]

Anderson's Andrews' Dictionary.
17,000 words56—printed here
—same number as Rich-
ardsons
Richardsons first great dicn
100 yrs ago.


Sharks


Mrs McFarlane—
volcano on Toahi57
30 miles from the house
—eruption began slowly
at su dusktextual note—at 4 AM was
shooting rocks & lava
400 feet high which wd
then descend in a grand
shower of fire to the
earth—in memendation crater
overflowed & molten
waves & billows went
boiling & surging down
mountain side just for
the world like the sea
[MS: N6_leaf_034v]
—stream from ½ to
mile & ½ wide & hun-
dreds
hundreds feed deep per-
haps
perhaps—over cattle, hou-
ses
houses & across streams
to the sea, 63 miles
distant (7 years ago)
ran into sea 3 miles
& boiled the fish for
20 miles around—
vessels found scores
boiled fish 20 miles
off—natives cooked their
food there.    Every
evening for 7 weeks
she sat on verandah
half the night gazing
upon the splendid
spectacle—the won-
derful
wonderful pyrotechnic
display—the house win-
dows
windows were always of
a bloody hue—read
newspapers every
[MS: N6_leaf_035r]
      Missionstextual note.58
night by no other
light than was afforded
by this mighty torch
30 miles away. Crowds
of visitors came from
the other islands.


KIV & V were nephews
of III, who adopted IV at
his birth as his son
& named him succes-
sor
successor, though V was eldest.

IV was remarkable
man—ambitious—proud,
accomplished, profound
in thought & wisdom—
a deep thinker—asha-
med
ashamed of his family &
did not like old K I &
Cooks murder re-
called
recalled—did not like
[MS: N6_leaf_035v]
to be reminded that
he came of race of
savages.—thought
he was worthy of
nobler origin—

Present King is
penetrating—sound
judgment—dignity—
accomplished—
has good sense &
courage & decision
—& became
[MTP: N&J1_207]
acquainted
with business by long
apprenticeship as
Minister of Interior.

Prince Bill is very
able man & accom-
plished
accomplished gentleman
—they have always been
a wonderful family
& the ablest in the
land.


[MS: N6_leaf_036r]

The “Legend”59

Children of mis-
sionaries
missionaries all call
each other cousins.60

Formed them-
selves
themselves into little
Mis Soc—once month
—have MSS paper
—once ¼ select from
it & print The Maile
(Mily) (Vine) Quarterly.

What'll you drink

Don't drink

But you must?

How much do you weigh

1 ton 2 ton—2200.61


[MTP: N&J1_208]

Capt Brown62 Keeper
City prison been tracing
genealogical tree—
found it takes root
like a banyan every
6 months.


[MS: N6_leaf_036v]

Sea Island cotton
—picked every day in the
year—stalks cut off
every January—no
frost—sure crop—
worth dollar a pound
—in Liverpool or Havre
worth any price—a-
dulterate
adulterate silk goods
with it. 1,000 acres
this land in bend of
head of this Island
worth $2 to $20 acre.

Raised $ 30,000 lbs last
year will raise 50,000
this. All that is needed
is labor—industry—
natives won't pick it
every day—lazy & shift-
less
shiftless.


[MS: N6_leaf_037r]

Sailor's Home

Best horses in the
world—too d—d feeble
to cut up any.

Cows all dedadtextual note this
morning, I guess—
no milk on ship
or shore.


Found the purser
looking at naked
women fishing, thro'
spy-glass.


By-word here—“Well,
why didn't you say so?”


Girls here have good
, home faces.



[MS: N6_leaf_037v]

Climate here
not as soft as at
Santa Cruz, & the
town not as beauti-
ful
beautiful as Havana,
of course.


Native printers
at work in Ga-
zette
Gazette office.

Royal Hawaiian
(d—n those two i's)
Agricultural
Society)—mem
to visit it, & get
its statistics.63



[MTP: N&J1_209]

Also the Amer
ican
American Legation.


[MS: N6_leaf_038r]

9 large Ger-
man
German firms here
—some of them
worth 3 or $4,000,000
—trade largely direct
with Hamburg and
Bremen.64


Planters chained
by merchants' ad-
vances
advances & part ow-
nership
ownership in their
plantations—mer-
chants
merchants also own in
the sailing line—
& so, the whole mer-
cantile
mercantile & planter
interest is opposed to
the steamship line.


[MS: N6_leaf_038v]

Jimpson weed.


Native manner
of tasting poi—
blowing nose
&c.


More d—d bells
ringing all
the time day
& night.


Church built
of lava blocks
5 by 1 foot—very
full shells & peb-
bles
pebbles—porous
[MS: N6_leaf_039r]
—dark cream
color—laid in ce-
ment
cement, stripes 20
2 inches—looks
checkered at little
distance.65 Big
fine grounds.


1

Brown's boots
all down at heel
by Ajax.


No tax on Real
Estate?66


[MS: N6_leaf_039v]

Permission
granted for three
distilleries 18
months ago.


Sandal wood.67



[MTP: N&J1_210]

See Mr.
Rising about
visit.

Tabu.



[MS: N6_leaf_040r]

Get law books


Color hair and
build of peoples


Smart—intelligent.


Crowing chickens
& bells, but few dogs


Thundering of
the surf in the still
night.


Natives carrying
bales of hay—B's
joke.


Whether hereditary
chiefs still have sway


[MS: N6_leaf_040v]

No place where
public education
so widely diffused


Children of ten—
all read & write


  Boys sent here
to school from
Cal & Russian
possessions.


Custom of
King & Nobles
adopting chil-
dren
children.


Stranger's
Friend Society
—ladies.68


[MS: N6_leaf_041r]

Female riding
apparel.

Foreign Cemetery
—2 miles up isl
Nuuanu Vally


American Sea-
man’s
Seaman's Friend So-
ciety
Society.

Catholic Cem-
etery
Cemetery 1 mile out
of town


Native ditto


Royal Tomb
near palace
grounds



[MS: N6_leaf_041v]

Koa tree69


[MTP: N&J1_211]

Grave of Kam
the Great a se-
cret
secret to this day70


What Aloha
means.71

Visit City Prison


   The old, old fash-
ion
fashion of gossiping
& tale-bearing
here.

What they mostly
talk about.


[MS: N6_leaf_042r]

Aristocracy
—exclusiveness
marked.

Who are the ex-
clusives
exclusives, & what
do they found it
on?


Dress—fashion
of foreigners


Ditto natives


Boys & girls in
swimming



[MTP: N&J1_212]

Eating raw fish
poi & lu-wow


Hoola-hoola


[MS: N6_leaf_042v]

1 3 Mosquito sea-
son
season—South (trade)
wind does not
blow yet.

Heated term

Rain 4 months
in year.textual notesame
months as ours


Nearly all na-
tive
native women on it.


$65 income
entitles to vote.


Old Battle
Ground.



[MS: N6_leaf_043r]

Waikiki—Re-
mains
Remains of Pagan
Temple.


The Salt Lake


Site of an old
Pagan Game


Fish Ponds.


Coral Reefs.


Taro Plantations


Another Old
Battle Ground
at Wailueu



[MS: N6_leaf_043v]

Feudal System
—Reform of Landed
System.72

Correspondents
publish from
Sing Sing.


Feats of Horse-
manship
Horsemanship.


Remarkable
Caves in Koloa


Femal Penitentiary
on Koloa.


Indigo.


Silk


[MS: N6_leaf_044r]

Valley of Cascades


[MTP: N&J1_213]

Lunar Rainbows

Objects of Su-
perstition
Superstition.


Legends.


Settlement of
Californians


Modes of Travel

Most here New
Englanders.


S Look Contented
but pine for Home


Hear it in the Surf.



[MS: N6_leaf_044v]

Coffee.


Evidences of
Remote Antiquity
on Hanalei.


Caves at Haena
—Hanalei.


Subterranean Lakes


Native courage
& size.


Significancy
of native names.


Nomilu salt
works.



[MS: N6_leaf_045r]

Battle Ground
of Wahi-awa.


Salt, Silk, Sugar,
molasses, whisky
Indigo, Cotton, coffee
fruit, wood, tobacco.
—11.


Traditions of Cook.


Russian fort at
Waimea.73



[MTP: N&J1_214]

Wild cotton.


Birds, game, rep-
tiles
reptiles, insects, ani-
mals
animals, beasts of
prey.



[MS: N6_leaf_045v]

Nohili, or Sound-
ing
Sounding Sands.74


The island steamer75


Island Postage
Stamps.


Photograph pictures


Fondness for tobacco.,textual note
but not whisky
—laws against


Church law a-
gainst
against smoking

Natives beautiful
teeth—knocked
out on death of
relatives.


[MS: N6_leaf_046r]

Haolē (man for-
eigner
foreigner)


Make picture
of men going to
church in old
native odds & ends.


Cocanut groves.


And Sharon waves
In silent praise
Her sacred groves
of palm.76

Fondness for Horses

How tree



[MTP: N&J1_215]

Deserted Villages



[MS: N6_leaf_046v]

More Cascades
—in Palae.


Women more im-
moral
immoral there.


Female mode of
squatting.


Fleas.


Lice.


Big Cockroaches
cameemendation in ships


Wailing for the
sick



[MS: N6_leaf_047r]

Ceremonies for the
dead.


Houses have shut-
ters
shutters to doors.


Girl's head-wreath
of flowers.


Whirlwinds.

Disappointment
in seeing no forests

Hawaii a half-way
house on the Pacif
highway.


Salt by evapora
tion
evaporation edge of town


[MS: N6_leaf_047v]

Damon's Library of
Antiques.77

Shells.


Dog feast.


10,000 in '42.


Ohia wreaths—crim-
son
crimson—& feathers.


Mullet

Kihei—wom riding
dress.


Odoriferous hala-
nut
hala-nut—necklacesemendation.


[MS: N6_leaf_048r]

[MTP: N&J1_216]

Awa—a drink78

Night-glasses used
at Capt Finch's re-
ception
reception.79

Chnese musical kite


Site of tribe of Canni-
bals
Cannibals on Oahu.80


Paper money here81


Native wouldn't take
dime for “rial”82 12½c

Gain—purchase of slave
—do of land—no frost—
freedom from taxation

Expressive features grunts
& gestures.



[MS: N6_leaf_048v]

Kona wind in winter

Falls of Wailua.

Lomi-lomi83



[MTP: N&J1_217]

Keep 2 pair in
shoe shops—1 of
17s & 1 of 5½

In the single
matter of im-
porting
importing ice, the
steamer would
make money.
Worth $100 a ton
Here worth $500
to $600 a ton
here.84


[MS: N6_leaf_049r]

Lignumvitae.

Natives pay to get
their poetry printed.


Flying fish.


Heated term, but
there are but few flies
in my room or hotel.

Mosquitoes 2 kinds
—day & night—1
black & white striped
makes gray—night
is little black fellow,
—they leave befor daylight.


Liquor license $1000
a year—bonds to not
keep open after 10 or be-
fore
before daylight—no recourse
upon sailors—pay $3 duty
[MS: N6_leaf_049v]
on brandy & 10 per cent
on wine. Rum busi-
ness
business well cramped
down—but few sa-
loons
saloons notwithstanding
great whaling depot.85


MShanghier gets
$3 for every man he
recruits, & ten per
cent
[MTP: N&J1_218]
of the sailor's
advance ($40,) for
Security. If the
man isn't on board
when the ship weighs
anchor, Shanghier
responsible for the
advanced money.

Sailor's Home
—King gave the lot
on condition Amer.
FSailor's Friend Soc
wd raise $5,000 within
the year (55)—it was
[MS: N6_leaf_050r]
done— buildings
& everything have
cost $18,000—accom-
modates
accommodates 40 men
with bed & board
all the time.86

Mrs Crabb
foreman.

Bethel out back.87

Board for men,
is& lodging,    $5 week

For officers 6 week

Clerks & mech's of the
town board at the of-
ficers’
officers' table.

MRodeemendation out this (22d)
morning, to we palace
of late King Kam. IV,
in Nuuana Valley—
very fine grounds.


[MS: N6_leaf_050v]

Royal Tomb.

P.O. Regulations. In-
ter
Inter Island—2 cents ½ oz
—5 when leaves Is Kingdom
—3 cents U.S. & 2 for the
ship. Thus single letter
to US costs 10 cents.88

All postage must
be pre-paid from here
but not necessary to
pay Hawaiian postage
from U.S. here—no
postal convention yet.textual note89


P.O. Stamps very
pretty.


[MTP: N&J1_219]

Gas Company
died 10 yrs ago—stores
don't keep open at
night textual note90

No good livery
horses—put em on
[MS: N6_leaf_051r]
ranch, Kanakas hire
em out or ride em to
death. Trick they played
Wheelock by keeping
their own blanket on
sore-back horse. $7
a week. Brown bought
one for $10. 3 50 cents for
2 bundles hay.

Californians ought to
come here twice a year
to soothe down their ha-
rassing
harassing business cares.


Board $8 & $10 a week
—rooms $5 to $7, a week.
—horses $1 to $2 a day.

Not a toll-road in
the Kingdom.


Dr. Judd's, only house
in the Hawaiian Kingdom
that has got a chimney.


[MS: N6_leaf_051v]

Saw Kanaka
woman catching fleas
off a dog & eating them
— she took a cat, but
the cat was inclined to
be quarrelsome—she
suckled it at her own
breast & then pro-
ceeded
proceeded to prospect it
for fleas.

Saw dozen naked
little girls bathing in
brook in middle of
town at noonday.

But few Jews
here & no Irish.


French Padres.


Plenty water &
bath-house to every
dwelling—$25 a year.


[MS: N6_leaf_052r]

[MTP: N&J1_220]

Peo Such a religious
community where
people go home from
church 3 times a day
to eat their meals.


2 Idols—(must
visit them)


I've got a good
horse, now—he ain't
afraiid of a bale
of hay.


Inquire about
Queen La Reine. Ma, daughr
of daughter of Gov.
Young by Dr. Rourke
husband of her
sister Fanny (in
adultery)—adopted
& educated.91


[MS: N6_leaf_052v]

Capt. Tait92—60 Ch a day


Geo. Washington
—aged Va nego sailor
Lord opens for him.


Hospital


4 Wards—capacity
132—32 in a ward
—some below

Portuguese idiot
—victim of—

Shakes head time
—hasn't spoken in 4
years.

Inverted bottles guard
garden walks.


Prison & walls
coral.



[MS: N6_leaf_053r]

1000s cats & nary snake.

Centipede.

Prostitutes (94) pay $5
a year license, & have
to be examined every
month & provided with
certificate free from
disease.93



[MTP: N&J1_221]

Have to take out a
license ($10,) to have
the Hulahula dance
performed, & then if
the girls dress for it
in the usual manner,
that is with no clothing
worth mentioning, it
must be conducted
in strict privacy.94


Missionaries have
busted out the national
Saturday sports, pas-
[MS: N6_leaf_053v]
times & horse racing
—also the 3 dance
houses, within 2 years.95


If can see sky
between the Pari or the
adjacent mountain
tops and the eternal
masses of clouds that
overhang that vi-
cinity
vicinity, it will be a
pleasant, breezy day
—the “trades” will blow.


A larkspur plant-
ed
planted alongside any shrub
here will protect the
same from the pre-
vailing
prevailing blight.


This King ought
to be grateful to the
missionaries, be-
cause
because during all the
years that the Eng-
[MS: N6_leaf_054r]
lish & French were
making trouble
& creating com-
plications
complications & trying
to get an excuse
to sieze the islands,
the wise counsels of
these men saved Ka-
mehamehas
Kamehamehas II, III & per-
haps
perhaps V from making
any false step.96



[MTP: N&J1_222]

Bishop received
in '62 with great pomp.


Mrs. McFarlane's 2
boys riding on the hand-
cartemendation with the dead
smallpoxemendation patients.97


Marshfield 2. P.M.
March 25, 1866—Sunday
—Mr. J. L. Lewis98
Luau.


[MS: N6_leaf_054v]

Rev. Mr. Parker
at great stone-church
(native.) Native choirs
—native girl played
melodeon.

Reformed Catholic
Church. Court re-
ligion
religion.


Miss McF thought
I was drunk because
I talked so long.


Sunday, Mch 25
Luau at Marshfield—
called at Waikkiki,
saw Mr. & Mrs Pratt
Mrs Do Gov. Dominis
& the Admiral of the
Hawaiian Navy.99


Theory that a
fresh water stream
kills coral & ma
keeps harbors clear.


[MS: N6_leaf_055r]

Procession of 80
women, in white skirts,
black bodies & tri-col-
ored
tri-colored sashes, buried
Thurston's child to-dayemendation.100



[MTP: N&J1_223]

Capt of one of Mc-
Gee’s
McGee's101 vessels dropped
Warren102 at certain
point—McGee sent
note by friend not to
come—Warren sent
immediately for ex-
planation
explanation—which
was returned instantly
by letter, rather than let
him come & get it.

McFarlane told
him Luther Severance
wanted him postpone
visit indef—would
save him writing if he
bring verbally. Place
26 miles fm here


[MS: N6_leaf_055v]

Dr Wood103 told
him make himself
at home—did—drank
all brandy—ordered
him get more—abused
servants—found
fault with horses
—lost his purse
& borrowed money
—didn't want na-
tives
natives hunt for
purse.



[MTP: N&J1_224]

Staid 3 months
at one house—
owner left—he still
staid a week—man
sent him word to
vacate premises.


Then he made
a raid on the mis-
sionaries
missionaries—remark
made to missionary
[MS: N6_leaf_056r]
daughter 17 yrs old.


Agent for Cal
State Ag Society—
Cor. Am. Flag & va-
rious
various Ag papers.


Agent for various
papers. Says he is
going to write a book.
Has got silk wormemendation
on the brain—got
books full various kin
d leaves. Silk w on brain

Went & stole lot
of seeds & a bamboo
at Inter Ag. Bureau
—made him bring
latter back.

Laidies used to visit
& welcome strange ladies
—got fooled—have to have
good recom. now.



[MS: N6_leaf_056v]

Got more business on
his hands—& don't keep
any clerks & don't get
any pay.


Aloha, Love, nui, great.


No word to express
gratitude—can but
lamely express vir-
tue
virtue of any kind—pro-
lific
prolific in epithets to ex-
press
express every degree
& shade of vice &
crime.

No word to ex-
press
express farewell—or
good-bye.104

But give to me that
good old word that
comes from the heart
Good-byeemendation! you might
[MS: N6_leaf_057r]
translate that old
song into Kanaka,
to the last phrase, but
there you would stick.

Is there any home?


All have a dozen
mothers (friends)105 and
an expression signi-
fying
signifying the mother.106



[MTP: N&J1_225]

Wail for joy & for
sorrow with same
noise.


Wash clothes well
but beat them all to pieces.


The Bungalo
Sam Brannan won won
it from Shillaber
—150 ft front—
large colums107


[MS: N6_leaf_057v]

Warren Sam
Brannan's agent to
repair Bungalo at
cost $5,000.


None of the lineal
y Young stock left but
2 daughters of a son
of the old original
Young.108


Capt. Adams—
Scotsman—near
100—blind—been
here 60 years109
with Sir Jno Moore at Corunna.110


If you don't
know a man in
Hon—call him
Capt & ask him
how many bar-
[MS: N6_leaf_058r]
rels he took last
season—chances
are he's a whaler.


Splendid Rainbow
over the Pari

All classes splendid
horsemen—raised in
saddle.



[MTP: N&J1_226]

The female Pride
of India tree bears a
flower resembling the
lilac, (sweet scented) about
once a year, from which
comes the seed by which
the tree is propagated
—the male blooms once
in 7 years—tree is
rapid growth



[MS: N6_leaf_058v]

King out on his
favorite white
horse at night

No rowdies
in Honolulu

King better ex-
excutive
executive officer
that his late brother

Jennie McIntyre
J S Walker111 Eclipse112
—30th.


Poi sure cure for
whisky-bloats.

Combs on a stick
& fish—squid
mullet, &c in the
market.


[MS: N6_leaf_059r]

Raising the devil
about the Ajax small
pox patient—threat-
ened
threatened to pull Sam
Loller's house down.113


Sour Things—tama-
rinds
tamarinds (aggravated peanuts) &
Chinese oranges.


Saturday as a gala
day, no longer amounts
to anything.

Balsam flowers


Takes one a good while
to cramp & crowd &
screw & diminish
his large notion
himself down to a
conception of the
[MS: N6_leaf_059v]
smallness of this
Island—this Kingdom
—rides six or eight
miles in any direc-
tion
direction & here is the ocean
bursting upon his
view—seems as if
he never will get
the d—d island trimmed
down as small
as it really is.

Same way
with planning a
journey from
Island to island
on the map—sees
the vast expanse
of ocean between
—thinks of talks
about month-long
drifting between
2 islands—& all
at once notices

[MTP: N&J1_227]
by latitude & lon-
[MS: N6_leaf_060r]
gitude that the
distance is insig-
nificant
insignificant—a mere
degree—& then ap-
preciates
appreciates what
had not struck
him before—viz,
that the long jour-
neys
journeys speak of baf-
fling
baffling winds & dread-
ful
dreadful calms.


Low coral isl-
ands
islands (Micronesia)
little or no account
for ag. purposes—
but high volcanic
first rateemendation.


Shameful thrust
at Rev. Wm Richards
in Manly Hopkins
(Consul General) book
[MS: N6_leaf_060v]
When he quit Mission-
ary
Missionary to help govern &
get up the Domesday
Book—says “Alas,
ambition sometimes
dwells beneath un-
starched
unstarched white cravats
& suits of black alpaca.”114

Also questions ve-
racity
veracity of Americans
in his preface.115


The American
papers 600 each
—the native papers
3,000 each—about
1,500 paid for—they
don't make a cent—
government helps
foot bills.


[MTP: N&J1_228]

[MS: N6_leaf_061r]

Soft voices of native
girls.—liquid, free, joyous
laughter.


Absence of news
& carelessness regarding
it—brig outside.—ar-
rival
arrival from N. London.

Goin' to windward


Kanakas will have
horses & saddles, & the wo-
men
women will fornicate—
2 strong characteristics
of this people.

Old style humming
singing of Kanaka singing
at Burgess'.116


W. C. Parke Marshal
of Kingdom.117   Jail.


[MS: N6_leaf_061v]

Native lends his
short, strong wooden
pipe, fills it, & then with
excess of hospitality
lights it for you.


Natural Bob-
tail
Bob-tailemendation cats.118


Bungalo


I wish Sherman
had marched
through Alabama


[MS: N6_leaf_062r]

Darkest contry
in world when
moon don't
shine.

King David Malo wrote
Biography Kam. I, & le-
gends
legends—left it with at
Lahaina for Prof An-
drews
Andrews—a princess
stole it119—the King has
got it won't give it
up, because Royal
family was down on
Malo, & because Kam
I did some hard
things & they dont want
them known.

Boo-hoo fever.120


[MS: N6_leaf_062v]

[MTP: N&J1_229]

Kanaka painted
branch coral
red & sold it.


Brown can't see those
“trades”—they haven't


Boo-hoo—Feebleness,
lassitude, indifference,
no appetite, slight
nausea, head & neck
ache, achy all over.

It acclimates the
patient—& don't hurt him
—about home & sea-
sickness
sea-sicknessemendation—acclimates
you—

½ people


[MS: N6_leaf_063r]

All who have to buy
wish Ajax would go
—those who sell want
her to stay.

Take M Spanish pis-
tareens
pistareens, worth 16 cts,
for a quarter, & re-
fuse
refuse a dime—


Go to Hilo, see Mr. Por-
ter
Porter—use Dunn's121 name
as being in Tahiti in
54—go to Kileau (Vol)
by advice of Porter)
—Coming back get
Capt let me ashore
at Lahaina—there
see Mr Mason122—use
Dunn's name—go
to Waialuka & sur-
[MS: N6_leaf_063v]
rounding plan-
tations
plantations & thence
to Makee's123—come
back to Lahaina
& go to Lainai &
see Gibson's Mormons124
—thence back to La-
haina
Lahaina & thence to
Molokai by boat—
thence back to La-
haina
Lahaina—then to
Holulu—thence
around U Oahu—
thence to Kauai
—circuit & back
to Honlula—
(Hoffslacker on Kauia)
—On Hawaii and
Maui spend good
deal time & make
many inquiries.125


Sickness China


[MTP: N&J1_230]

Mai pake—

China sickness126


[MS: N6_leaf_064r]

O–K–LM–H–L–M–

April 3d127


Eliiboe128

Silver sheeremendation leaf—


Prin Victoria

Mrs. Bishop

Prince William

David Kalu

Queen Emma's
family.



[MS: N6_leaf_064v]

Kammy's bones
hidden luc at his
own request, to
keep them from
making fish
hooks of them—
a superstition that
hooks made of
the bones of a great
Chief would con-
centrate
concentrate the fish.


War cloaks of the
King K I's great
grand father—of
red black & yellow
feathers.

Spear of giant
9 feet high.—700
years ago—know be-
fore
before 1500


[MS: N6_leaf_065r]

Singing of na-
tives
natives very round
& soft—has no
sound of Semendation in it.


Fetch the hearse
we're going to take
a drink.



[MTP: N&J1_231]

Reciting of the
native women
in farewell to Mrs.
Bishop, who is a
chiefess, & only 3
removes from
the throne.129


[MS: N6_leaf_065v]

Islands $ 100,000 150,000textual note
in debt—holders
wont give up the
bonds, paying 9
p. ct.—treasury full
money—have to de-
vise
devise ways to spend it
could pay in 2 or 3 years

Perfect Gov't
in miniature.

US. Won't recog-
nize
recognize—Judge Allen
remained Washington
a year130


McBride Min-
ister
Minister, ranks all
other envoys here.131


H. I. have Chargé
d'affairs in N. Y
& London.


[MS: N6_leaf_066r]

Have treaty of
amity & commerce
with U S.132 but Mason
Slidell & Benjamin
killed a better one in
1856.—Seward & Fes-
senden
Fessenden favored Reci--
procity
Reciprocity.


King V parts hair
in middle.


Turn thermometer
upside down—make
cool weather.



[MS: N6_leaf_066v]

Deformed Catholic

Gallagher, Irish
New Yorker, half-
witted
half-wittedemendation or crazy.133

American citizens
gave carriage to Queen
Emma, & she gave
it to Bishop Staleys
wife—Rough. She
says her chian
never go into the
street but the
other chn swear
at them.



[MTP: N&J1_232]
The rose is red,
The violet is blue
The pink is pretty
And so—are you.textual note134


[MS: N6_leaf_067r]

Easily tell direction
of trade wind here
(toward sea) by bend
of trees in Muana
Valley135—wind or no
wind they always
seem in a storm


Judd's only house
in Kingdom with
a chimney—climate's
indication.


Bake Houses


Harris Minister Finance
& Acting Atty Gen.



[MS: N6_leaf_067v]

Well enough
for old folks to
rise early, because
done so many mean
things all their lives
cant sleep anyhow.


No native beggars.


King wouldn't receive
Dr Anderson, Secy of
Board of Missions.136


Dr. Judd, Prince
Lott & late King trav-
eling
traveling—went late to din-
ner
dinner—no places—
Capt provided extra
table.



[MS: N6_leaf_068r]

Charybdis—of-
ficers
officers said never
saw anything like
this service in Englnd.


Bishop received
in carriage—old
missionaries came
on foot.



[MTP: N&J1_233]

Candles t done away
with—also transpa-
rencies
transparencies.


Repeated insults of
English—one
American—

Paulet

Capt. Hammond Hannam
—King's carriage
& house in palace
yard—ran off with
natives—2 ships
[MS: N6_leaf_068v]
chased—wouldn't
receive Parke—
shored natives on
wnd side Island.137


More mission-
aries
missionaries & more row
made about saving
these 60,000 people
than would take
to convert hell
itself.


Americans
have given religion,
freedom, educa-
tion
education, written lan-
guage
language & Bible—

England & France
have given insults.



[MS: N6_leaf_069r]

Wouldn't pray
for president be-
fore
before death—does
now.


Russian vessel
fired guns outside
reef for Richmond
taken—couldn't
raise flags in
harbor.


T. N. Hon—Call
him Tom Hono-
lulu
Honolulu.138


Minsters came
armed aganst na-
tives
natives, canibals


Sold at auction



[MS: N6_leaf_069v]

Yankee

term of re-
proach
reproach—Yankee
invention—rocky
chairs.


Ride in Queen
Emma's Carrige


Paid for wash-
ing
washing in tobacco
& brandy.


Severance139 sold
& Capt. Luce140 took
[MS: N6_leaf_070r]
them to the auction
—arms.


Bishop of Wialua
—Mr. S. not at
home—the Lord
B in study


English Women wore
mourning—deep—
3 months—then
white, trimmed with
black ribands—
men mourning
also, for IV.141



[MS: N6_leaf_070v]

Mattrass jack-
ass
jackassemendation feathers.


Fear reptiles
in Bunk on Mary
Ellen.


Rainbows every
day at Honlulu.


Adultery—each
$30 fine now.



[MS: N6_leaf_071r]

July 4, 1866142Hon-
olulu
Honolulu—went to ball
—da 8.30 PM—danced
till 12.30—went home
wh MC143—stopped at Gen.
Van Valkenburgh's room
& talked with him & Mr.
Burlingame, Col. Rumsey144
& Ed. Burlingame until
3 AM 5th.—textual note145



leaf_071v is a blank verso, followed by eight blank leaves and one blank recto (16.5 pages); the entries continue on leaf_080v


[MS: N6_leaf_080v]

inscribed upside down from the bottom of the page

Kanaka Lexicon146

Walk in—Helemi moloko.

What's your name?

Wyko enoa.

Where do you live?

Mah-haerko hahlee.

How old are you?

Ah-heo-mah-ke-hekee.

How many brothers
& sisters have you got?

Ah-heo-kaekoa-
heaua-ah-kakunanitextual note.


inscribed from the top of the page

Who?—Owai—Who?—Owai Thy—kou

Who art thou? Owai oe? name inoa

Who is that? Owai kela?

Who are they?—Owai lakou?

What is thy name? Owai kou inoa?

“  ” his (or her) name) Owai kona inoa?

From whence came you? Maihea mai oe
i hele mai nei?

Where are you going?—E hele ana oe
maheatextual note


[MS: N6_back flyleaf recto]

What is this? Heaha keia
mea?

What is that? Heaha kela
mea?

This?—Keia—That, kela

What, heahu—thing, mea.

Kona, its.

Heaha kona inoa.

Is he gone?—Ua hala kela?

At what time did he go?—I ka
wa hea kona hela ana?

How

Can you swim?—E
hiki ia oe ka au?


inscribed lengthwise:

How much do I owe you?

Pehea ka nui o kuu aie ia oe?

What shall we 2 do? Heaha ka kaua
e hana'i?

How old is your sister?

Ehia na makahiki o kou
kaikuwahine?

Aole—don't knowtextual note


[MS: N6_back flyleaf verso]

the numbers in each list item below continue onto the facing page (inside back cover); they have been transcribed below as if the entries were on this page only (back flyleaf verso)


1 —page 4, 5, 10, 25, 26, 27, 28, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37, 38, 42, 49, 51, 72,

2 — — 4, 6, 29, 30, 40, 51,

3 — — 13, 33, 38, 39, 41, 42, 44, 51, 52, 84,

4 — — 28, 33,

5 — — 9,textual note147


Algeroba148

fine foliage


[MS: N6_back endpaper]

25

20

500


inscribed upside down from the bottom of the page

Boy dangled the
worm in the tasse, &
dit, G d yr ame, you
not tkl mon
againtextual note


[MS: N6_outside back cover]

J.Q.A. Warren is in here.textual note

Editorial Notes
1 An expurgated version of the punchline of an anecdote Mark Twain recorded in full in Notebook 4 (p. 83).
2 This is the first entry in the body of Notebook 6, the previous notes having been made on the front flyleaf and endpaper. The entries through that of 11 March were made after Notebook 5 was misplaced and constitute a brief recapitulation from memory of the first days of the Ajax voyage. Mark Twain left space after each of these entries for the addition of further recalled details.
3 Asterisks, sometimes circled and occurring as many as three times on a single entry, appear throughout the first 103 notebook pages. They represent a preliminary attempt to identify material for potential literary use, although not all of the entries marked were incorporated into Mark Twain's Sacramento Union letters. The numbers 1 through 5, which accompany many of the entries marked with asterisks—indifferently preceding or following the asterisks—belong to an apparently independent organizational system (see note 147 for a discussion of this code).
4 Probably the boy who, according to an Ajax passenger list published in The Friend on 2 April 1866, was traveling with Captain James Smith, called Captain Cuttle by Mark Twain.
5 Evidently a reference to Dr. Gambarelli Bechtinger, an eye specialist on his way from Venice to the Sandwich Islands, where he would open an office to offer consultation “in the English, French, German, Spanish, and Italian languages” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 21 April 1866).
6 One of the Ajax passengers was W. H. Brown, an American merchant. It is impossible now to determine what traits this Brown may have contributed to Mark Twain's uninhibited literary figure, who had already appeared briefly in pieces written for the Californian and the Territorial Enterprise in 1865 and 1866 and would be more fully developed in the Sacramento Daily Union and Alta California travel letters.
7 The ship's pig, which afforded the Ajax passengers much amusement until its demise. (See the Sacramento Daily Union, 17 April 1866, MTH, pp. 267–268.)
8 As Mark Twain would later discover, the sanctioned Mormon colony was no longer on Lanai. A “City of Joseph” had been established there in 1854, but it nearly failed because of internal organizational difficulties. Walter Murray Gibson, an inspired—even visionary—adventurer, arrived in 1861 as a roving missionary of the Mormon church and stayed to become a newspaper editor, a controversial Hawaiian legislator, and by 1882, premier and minister of foreign affairs. Although Gibson temporarily revived the moribund mission, his irregular practices, including transfer of title to the Lanai property to himself, led to his excommunication from the Mormon church. The mission was forced to relocate, and in January 1865 land for a new settlement was purchased at Laie, Oahu. The new colony thrived, even though a number of City of Joseph saints chose to remain with Gibson on Lanai.
9 Mark Twain here recorded the essence of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's case for excluding a Honolulu stop from its projected San Francisco–China line. He would expand upon this entry soon after arrival in Honolulu in a long letter published in the Sacramento Daily Union on 18 April (MTH, pp. 270–273), describing Hawaii's commercial significance for the United States and especially for California.
10 “ ‘Monkeys,’ ” Mark Twain wrote in the Sacramento Daily Union of 20 April 1866, “are slender-necked, large-bodied, gourd-shaped earthenware vessels, manufactured in Germany, and are popularly supposed to keep water very cool and fresh, but I cannot indorse that supposition” (MTH, p. 282).
11 The moa was a Hawaiian wild chicken used in cockfighting.
12 This title was no longer in use, for in 1863, to compensate for its neglect of Hawaii during the Civil War, the United States had raised the rank of its diplomatic representative to minister resident. The minister resident at this time was James McBride, who had been appointed on 9 March 1863. McBride would be replaced just three days after Mark Twain's arrival in Honolulu, but he continued in office throughout the period of Mark Twain's visit, pending the arrival of his successor.
13 The following bill of duplicities must have been based on information supplied by one of the Hawaiian residents aboard the Ajax. Honolulu consul Alfred Caldwell was abetted by his son-in-law and deputy Thomas Templeton Dougherty— particularly by Dougherty's manipulation of James M. Green, purveyor of the U.S. Marine Hospital in Honolulu. Official exposure of these fraudulent practices wouldn't come until the fall of 1866. It culminated in Caldwell's suspension early in January 1867.
14 On 27 November 1865 George S. Tooker, the notoriously tyrannical master of the American whaler Mercury, had been sentenced by a San Francisco judge to three months' imprisonment and fined one hundred dollars for beating, wounding, and starving a seaman, who apparently was a native of the Sandwich Islands. Indignation in Hawaii, already great over Tooker's cruelty, increased considerably early in 1866, when word arrived that President Andrew Johnson had pardoned him, thereby deflecting a punishment that had never seemed adequate.
15 The Reverend Thomas Thurston, age thirty, son of the Reverend Asa Thurston and Lucy Goodale Thurston, members of the First Company of American Protestant Missionaries, returned to Honolulu aboard the Ajax after some eight years devoted to study at Yale University and at Union Seminary in New York City. On the evening of 25 March 1866, Thomas Thurston preached his first sermon on the text “And Jesus himself began to be about thirty years of age,” at the Fort Street Congregational Church, then under the ministry of the Reverend Eli Corwin. This entry and the one following, both obviously out of sequence, were written apparently at random on the last of four pages which Mark Twain had originally left blank.
16 Established in New York in May 1828, the American Seamen's Friend Society was a philanthropic organization zealously dedicated to the care of seamen. The society maintained sailors' homes, institutes, and bethels all over the world, and, in addition to caring for the shipwrecked and destitute, performed a repertoire of services for seamen, including letter-writing, provision of free meals and lodgings, and the maintenance of reading rooms ashore and loan libraries afloat. It also sponsored a variety of social, religious, and temperance activities intended to distract seamen from less savory amusements.
17 On 29 June 1810, the General Association of Massachusetts Proper, “a recently organized body of conservative Congregational ministers, representing the more evangelical wing of the denomination” (William E. Strong, The Story of the American Board, An Account of the First Hundred Years of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions Boston: The Pilgrim Press, 1910, p. 3) approved the desire of several Andover Theological Seminary students to undertake a mission to the heathen and created a nine-member American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions to regulate such activities. The American Board's first missionaries to the Sandwich Islands arrived in 1820.
18 Mark Twain's sobriquets for Captain James Smith, the latter two suggested by John Brougham's popular dramatization of Dickens' Dombey and Son. In act 1, scene 1 of the play, although not in the novel, the rough-mannered, good-hearted Captain Ned Cuttle is referred to as “that old sea monster.” In “A Voice for Setchell” (Californian, 27 May 1865) Mark Twain had expressed his partiality toward the production of Brougham's play which featured the well-known comedian Dan Setchell as Captain Cuttle.
19 In a letter to the Alta California from New York on 20 November 1867, Mark Twain would write of his dream of a passenger list for a world tour “made up of all sorts of people” who “could travel forever without a row.” Among them he included “Admiral Jim Smith, late of Hawaiian Navy” (TIA, p. 312–313). That recollection of Smith and the present notebook entry indicate that he was the prototype for “the old Admiral” in chapter 62 of Roughing It.
20 William H. Dimond, then a lieutenant in the Hawaiian Cavalry Company, had left the Sandwich Islands on 28 August 1864 to volunteer for service with the Union forces in the Civil War. He was returning as a captain of cavalry in the United States Army.
21 The American Hotel in Honolulu, where Mark Twain was to stay and take meals, was operated by M. Kirchoff, a German.
22 The genesis and evolution of the Hawaiian flag are still matters of some uncertainty. Except for the inclusion of a French influence, however, Mark Twain's description of the flag and its sources is generally consistent with the sometimes conflicting accounts by contemporary observers. Although earlier flags have been reported with seven stripes, the flag in use in 1866 was apparently one that had been introduced in 1845 which had eight stripes of white, red, and blue, symbolizing eight islands under one sovereign.
23 The Hawaiian Reformed Catholic church, to which the royal family and several members of the government, including Attorney General Charles C. Harris, belonged.
24 Probably Nuuanu Street, which ran from downtown Honolulu through the Nuuanu Valley up to the Pali, the famous precipice over which Kamehameha I drove an opposing army to conclude his conquest of Oahu in 1795. In 1866 the street was inhabited by whalers and “gaudy women” awaiting trade in crowded coffee shops, and it resounded with the “fantastic babel” of dancing to violins, piano, and castanets (Gavan Daws, “The Decline of Puritanism at Honolulu in the Nineteenth Century,” Hawaiian Journal of History 1 1967: 36).
25 Charles L. Richards was a partner in C. L. Richards & Co., Honolulu ship chandlers and commission merchants.
26 Mark Twain confused two pairs of interchangeable consonants, t/k and l/r. Towi and kowi (not lowi) were therefore the acceptable alternative forms of the word meaning “to press; to squeeze together.” In devising an orthography for the Hawaiian language the American Protestant missionaries had preferred k to t. Mark Twain may have been led to believe that their Catholic rivals had opposed this choice by using t instead, but no evidence has been discovered to indicate that such was in fact the case.
27 The Hawaiian language had seven consonants, H, K, L, M, N, P, and W, and the customary five vowels. A “guttural break,” now known as a glottal stop, was represented by an apostrophe and may have been Mark Twain's thirteenth letter. Although contemporary experts did not seem to recognize this element as a separate consonant, considering it a variant of the sound represented by K in other Polynesian dialects, modern lexicographers have called it “the second most common consonant of the language” (Mary Kawena Pukui and Samuel H. Elbert, Hawaiian Dictionary Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1971, p. viii). Mark Twain's description of the pronunciation of vowels is substantially correct. Sequences of as many as six vowels may occur. Today, however, it is recognized that diphthongs do exist, although their elements are not as closely joined as in English.
28 Lorrin Andrews, A Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language (Honolulu, 1865).
29 Artemus Bishop, Na Huaolelo a me na olelo kikeke ma ka Beritania a me ka olelo Hawaii, no na Haumana e ao ana i kela a me keia. A Manual of Conversations, Hawaiian and English. Hawaiian Phrase Book (Honolulu, 1854).
30 John Owen Dominis, a native of New York State, was governor of Oahu. He was married to Lydia Kamakaeha Paki, who, as Liliuokalani, would reign as Hawaii's last queen.
31 Asa D. Nudd, a partner in Nudd, Lord & Co., San Francisco importers and wholesale dealers in wines and liquors, had spent two weeks in Hawaii in late January and early February 1866 as a passenger on the first round trip of the Ajax. His acquaintance with Kamehameha V must have dated from October 1849 or from August 1850, the two occasions on which the king, then Prince Lot Kamehameha, was in San Francisco as part of a diplomatic mission.
32 The barks Whistler and Behring had arrived from San Francisco on 15 and 16 March, respectively. The bark Onward had departed from Honolulu for San Francisco on 6 March 1866.
33 Anglican Bishop Thomas Staley had come to Honolulu in 1862 accompanied by two English clergymen, George Mason and Edmund Ibbotson. At the beginning of 1865 the Reverend Peyton Gallagher came from the United States to assist Staley, and early the following year the Reverend G. B. Whipple, also an American, opened a station at Wailuku, Maui. The dispatch of American Episcopalian clergymen was not, however, the cynical maneuver Mark Twain indicates. Contemporary authorities, among them the Episcopal bishop of California, claimed that the English had initiated endeavors in Hawaii with the approval of the American Episcopal church, which, due to a lack of clergy and to the distractions of the Civil War, had been temporarily unable to collaborate. These explanations in no way alleviated the dismay of the pioneer American Protestant missionaries, who resented the Hawaiian royal family's undisguised preference for the Anglican establishment.
34 On 28 November 1843, after protracted negotiations, complicated by Lord George Paulet's seizure of the Sandwich Islands in the name of the British crown (see Notebook 5, pp. 151–152), Great Britain and France had signed a joint declaration agreeing to consider the Sandwich Islands an independent state and promising never to take possession of any part of its territory. This declaration did not itself constitute a formal treaty, and the Hawaiian government was unable to secure the kind of treaty guarantees it wanted from Britain and France. The practical value of the joint declaration was perhaps best illustrated in 1849 by a brief but shocking invasion of Honolulu by French naval forces.
35 Historians have pointed out that France did indeed use her missionaries, supported by timely displays of naval force, as a vanguard to gain prestige and influence in the Pacific. In 1838 and 1839 French ships had visited Tahiti the Society Islands to extort pledges of cooperation with French religious enterprises, in the latter year stopping at Hawaii as well and, under the threat of immediate hostilities, securing a site for a Catholic church in Honolulu, a promise of freedom of worship for Roman Catholics, and certain commercial and legal concessions. In 1842, shortly after taking possession of the Marquesas with the aid of missionaries there, the French returned to Tahiti and, finding compliance with an agreement of 1839 inadequate, coerced the government into yielding the islands as a French protectorate. Although France did not repeat these territorial appropriations in Hawaii, the French invasion of Honolulu in 1849, this time on a commercial and diplomatic, rather than a religious pretext, helped keep distrust of her intentions at a high level.
36 What follows is a truncated and garbled account of events which occurred between 1827 and 1840 during establishment of France's Catholic mission in the Sandwich Islands. Bishop Louis Desirée Maigret, who had been in Honolulu since 1840 but who had not been a member of the first banished party of priests, did not live in a palace. The antagonism toward Maigret implied here seems as secondhand as the account of the coming of the French priests, since Mark Twain apparently would not himself meet or observe Maigret until late June (see Notebook 5, p. 118), when he would compose a tribute to him to appear in the Sacramento Daily Union on 30 July.
37 Samuel Chenery Damon, Honolulu chaplain of the American Seamen's Friend Society and pastor of the Oahu Bethel Church, had come to Hawaii in 1842. On 1 January 1843 he began publication of The Temperance Advocate & Seamen's Friend, briefly called The Friend of Temperance & Seamen and then simply The Friend, a periodical concerned chiefly with the moral improvement of sailors. Damon, who by 1866 had completed slightly more than half his tenure as The Friend's editor and publisher, later liked to recall that he had initiated it at a time when “there was not a newspaper published in the English language at the Sandwich Islands, or any part of Polynesia, or even on the Western coast of North or South America, from Bherings Straights to Cape Horn ... while in Oregon, California, Mexico, Panama, Peru and Chile not an English type had been set up” (Ethel Mosely Damon, Samuel Chenery Damon Honolulu: Hawaiian Mission Children's Society, 1966, p. 12). Mark Twain's account of The Friend's publication history is slightly inaccurate, for according to Damon's statement in The Friend of 1 May 1862 it had been published semimonthly from 1845 to 1847, after which it had been published monthly with two intervals, May to September 1849 and February 1851 to May 1852.
38 Mark Twain's continuing attachment to these lines from “The Pirate's Serenade” by John Thomson and William Kennedy is discussed in Notebook 5, note 148.
39 An adobe house on the “narrow way called Pa'i'aina by Hawaiians, but soon known as Chaplain Lane” (Ethel Mosely Damon, Samuel Chenery Damon, p. 34). Mark Twain reportedly rented a room for some time at the corner of Fort Street and Chaplain Lane, next to the Damon home.
40 Damon's predecessor, who during his years in Honolulu so assiduously sought the patronage of sailors that some actually deserted the saloons for his church, much to the annoyance of the grog-shop proprietors, who on one occasion threatened to use violence to stop his proselytizing.
41 Damon delivered the opening prayer at the celebration held in Oak Grove, between Sutter's Fort and Sacramento City, on 4 July 1849. The holiday address was delivered by William McKendree Gwin, who had gone to California in 1849 to campaign for statehood and for his own election to the United States Senate. Elected one of California's first senators, Gwin held office from 1850 until 1861. In 1861 his attachment to John C. Calhoun and the Southern faction led to the first of two imprisonments during the Civil War. Between prison terms Gwin attempted unsuccessfully to colonize Mexico with settlers from the South, and after this failure his public activities ceased.
42 Charles Marie Weber, rancher, gold miner, and founder in 1847 of Stockton, California.
43 Damon reported in The Friend of 1 December 1849 that he found Stockton “a city of tents, there being only two wooden buildings in the place” and that he “learned that a clergyman had never spent a Sabbath in the town.” “On making known that I was a clergyman,” he continued, “arrangements were made for holding services on board a vessel ... used as a store-ship and moored alongside the bank.” On Sunday 1 July 1849, Damon delivered his sermon on Galatians 6:7–8.
44 The following information about early Sandwich Islands newspapers and periodicals was probably provided from memory by Samuel C. Damon with instructions to Mark Twain to examine the more inclusive list published in The Friend of 1 May 1862. Although not without uncertainties of dating, the list in The Friend would have prevented Mark Twain's confusion about the evolution of the Polynesian, which became the official journal of the government when it was revived.
45 

tipped in on top of this entry with wax is the following clipping from The Friend of 1 May 1865:


[MS: N6_clipping01 recto]

Rev. S. C. Damon, Editor of “The Friend,” and my Reverend and Respected Friends, Singular and Dual:

The inherent modesty which is part and parcel of my nature received an abrupt shock the other day, when, by the Whistler, I received a copy of The Friend, with the following item in its pages:

“It has been stated in print that the U. S. Government derives annually $400,000 from Custom House duties imposed upon Hawaiian products. Will Mr. Ingols, residing in San Francisco, please furnish some reliable statistics upon the subject? We know of no one who could do it better.”

I tried at first to think it might be my brother James, who is computing clerk for Messrs. Kellogg, Hewston & Co., who was meant by the paragraph, “or any other man,” save myself; but I afterwards came to the conclusion, on reading the letter of a common friend, in which he made allusion to “the call,” that it was I, and I alone, who was the “Mr. Ingols.” Such being the case, I will at once to the task, and point out how I think it can be made up with accuracy enough to form an approximate sufficiently correct for generalization. Let us first take the imports into San Francisco. The bulk of these are as follows:

Coffee, 14,854 lbs, duty 5¢ per lb $ 742.70
Molasses, 259,469 galls, duty 8¢ per gal 23,757.52
Pulu, 664,600 lbs, (at 7¢ per lb, $46,522,) at 20 pr ct 9,304.40
Salt, 308,000 lbs, at 18¢ per 100 lbs 554.40
Sugar, 8,851,957 lbs, at 3¢. average duty 265,558.71
Rice, 377,978 lbs, at 2½¢ per lb 9,449.45
Unenumerated, at least 2,000.00
Being for San Francisco alone fully $311,367.18

Thus far I can go, but you will now have to call on Collector Allen for the details of the cargoes from the Islands to Oregon, Boston, and New Bedford. As the duty is mostly specific on Hawaiian produce, except Hides, Wool and Pulu, it will be very easy to calculate the duty on the amounts given by him. The bulk of the Portland cargoes were Sugar, say 1,000,000 lbs, which, with the molasses, would probably swell the duties collectable to $40,000. In round numbers, then, the duties collected on the Pacific coast of the United States would not be far from $350,000. The Eastern vessels' cargoes, as you well know, consist mostly of Oil transhipped from American whalers, and therefore duty free. The balance of their cargoes are Hides Wool and sundries. I think it would be safe to estimate that the whole of them did not pay over $50,000 to the Custom House. You will see, therefore, that the person who gave you the estimate of $400,000 as the amount of duties paid to the United States on Hawaiian productions, must have entered into a calculation of a somewhat similar nature to mine, and I venture to say that an elaborate research (outside of actual Custom House figures) will not vary the result for the year 1864, to the amount of $10,000 either way from $400,000.

All of which is respectfully submitted.

n. lombard ingols,

Accountant and General Factor.


[MS: N6_clipping01 verso]

Ingols, at one time a resident of the Sandwich Islands, had died on 13 October 1865 at the age of forty-three. His calculations, taken from this clipping, appeared in Mark Twain's account of “The Importance of the Hawaiian Trade” in the Sacramento Daily Union on 18 April 1866 (MTH, p. 271).

46 Here Mark Twain pasted in an advertisement of Honolulu places of worship that ran in every issue of The Friend and listed the following six churches: the Seamen's Bethel, the Fort Street Church, the Stone Church, Smith's Church, the Catholic Church, and the Reformed Catholic Church, under the ministries of the Reverends Samuel C. Damon, Eli Corwin, Henry H. Parker, and Lowell Smith and Bishops Louis D. Maigret and Thomas N. Staley, respectively.
47 The Reverend Eli Corwin became pastor of the Fort Street Congregational Church in Honolulu in 1858 after serving as pastor of the Independent Presbyterian Church First Presbyterian Church of San Jose, California, from early 1852 until October 1858. He was recording secretary of the California State Agricultural Society during 1856.
48 The Reverend Henry Hodges Parker, whose father, Benjamin Wyman Parker, had come to the Sandwich Islands in 1833, was pastor of Kawaiahao Church in Honolulu, also known as King's Chapel and the Stone Church. Services there were regularly conducted in Hawaiian. Parker's knowledge of the Hawaiian language would later lead to his appointment to revise Lorrin Andrews' A Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language.
49 Oahu College was chartered in 1853 to train students in fields of Christian education, according to the principles of American Protestant Evangelical Christianity. It was an outgrowth of the school for missionary children opened in 1842 at Punahou, near Honolulu. Although intended to make it unnecessary to seek advanced education abroad, the school at Oahu never became a fully developed college.
50 The Reverend William DeWitt Alexander was a member of a missionary family Mark Twain would visit at Wailuku, Maui, in April or May. Salutatorian of his class at Yale in 1855, Alexander had become professor of Greek at Oahu College in 1858 and in 1865 was named president of that institution. The book of poetry alluded to here has not been identified.
51 Facing this entry Mark Twain attached a program for a “Grand Hawaiian Concert” held at Kawaiahao Church on 10 March 1866. He marked the program with a circled asterisk.
52 Except for the braces, and the words “2 weekly native,” “Eng—(Independent),” and “&(Light),” the following list is in a hand other than Mark Twain's.
53 Robert G. Davis, Reports of a Portion of the Decisions Rendered by the Supreme Court of the Hawaiian Islands, in Law, Equity, Admiralty and Probate, 1857—1865 (Honolulu: Government Press, 1866).
54 An Amateur Musical Society had been organized in Honolulu in 1851. Its members seem to have been perpetually in rehearsal for the monthly concerts at which they sang “solos, duets, quartettes, and choruses from operas and oratorios, with piano, violin, and flute music” (L. F. Judd, Honolulu, p. 328).
55 

The following newspaper clipping was attached here:

This shows what is thought of the Bishop's American friend in the community in which he lives, and he will scarcely deny that the verdict of those American residents is entitled to consideration. They have shown themselves true patriots; long separation from the United States has not alienated their hearts from the land of their birth. Mark their course during the late rebellion; it is well worthy of notice and emulation. Their young men, scions of that Puritan stock the Bishop dislikes so much, enlisted in our Union army and navy; one, of whom we know, not able to go himself, kept a substitute in our army during the whole war. Very freely they gave personal service and money in defence of the land they had never seen, but which they had been taught by their parents to love. Our muster rolls show a brigadier-general, a colonel, a lieutenant-colonel, several lieutenants and numerous surgeons, natives or residents of the Sandwich Islands, and descendants of that despised missionary stock; while in money, they contributed to our Sanitary Commission the respectable sum of sixteen thousand one hundred and thirteen dollars and forty-three cents, being more than was given for the same object by either New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, the District of Columbia, Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, Kentucky, Louisiana, Idaho, Colorado or Nebraska; in fact, more in proportion to their numbers than was given by any state in the Union. Is not the judgment of such men entitled to as much weight as Bishop Staley's?

The influence of this clipping is evident in the martial depiction of the American missionaries Mark Twain included in his attack on Anglican Bishop Thomas N. Staley in the Sacramento Daily Union of 30 July 1866 (MTH, pp. 352–353).

56 Lorrin Andrews himself estimated the number of words in his dictionary as “about 15,500” (A Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language, p. vi).
57 This spectacular description of the January through August 1859 eruption of Mauna Loa, on Hawaii, provided by Mrs. Henry MacFarlane, wife of a Honolulu liquor merchant, is substantially confirmed by other contemporary accounts. Toahi is Mark Twain's phonetic approximation of Kawaihae, the name of a site on Hawaii about thirty-five miles north of Mauna Loa.
58 Mark Twain would sometimes outline subjects for particular attention a few pages in advance, but as a notebook evolved he was not always able to restrict himself even to these loose boundaries. “Missions,” which appears between “every” and “night” in the entry describing the eruption of Mauna Loa, was written and encircled at the top of a notebook page. It was probably intended to head a series of entries about missionary enterprises, but the pages allotted for this purpose were appropriated first to complete the rush of description of the volcano's eruption and then for the notes about Hawaiian succession.
59 “The Legend of Ai Kanaka,” an account of how a Molokai harbor came to be named Ai Kanaka (man-eater), appeared in the first number of the Maile Quarterly (see note 60).
60 An outgrowth of the parent missionaries' custom of addressing each other as “brother” and “sister.” In 1852 the Hawaiian Mission Children's Society, also known as the Cousins' Society, was organized for social and spiritual purposes in Hawaii and for the support of missionary children who themselves became missionaries to other parts of the world. The manuscript paper Mark Twain refers to was the Maile Wreath, a monthly magazine initiated in 1862, which was assembled from members' contributions, read at meetings of the society, and then circulated among those who had not been in attendance. From 1865 to 1868, in order to share parts of the Maile Wreath with “cousins,” who lived at too great a distance to see the manuscript, a printed magazine, the Maile Quarterly, was mailed to subscribers.
61 Part of the Hawaiian system of etiquette and insult which Mark Twain discussed in the Sacramento Daily Union of 22 May (MTH, p. 306).
62 J. H. Brown, captain of the artillery in the Voluntary Military, was jailor of Oahu Prison.
63 Organized on 13 August 1850, the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society was inactive after 1856 but continued to exist until September 1869, when it was formally dissolved. To the limited degree permitted by its scant finances, the organization sponsored scientific experimentation and the introduction of superior varieties of plants and animals. Its published reports, The Transactions of the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society (seven issued between 1850 and 1856), were undoubtedly the source for some of Mark Twain's information about Hawaiian agriculture.
64 During the 1850s, the formative years in Hawaii's commerical development, two dozen German business firms established themselves in Honolulu. Although the following decade saw the beginning of a decline in German influence, at the time of Mark Twain's visit the German firms still played a significant role in the commerical life of Honolulu.
65 Kawaiahao Church in Honolulu was built of blocks of coral, not lava. In his letter in the Sacramento Daily Union of 19 April (MTH, p. 275) Mark Twain correctly identified this characteristic Honolulu building material.
66 Although land taxes had been abolished in 1852, because of a pressing need to increase revenue the Civil Code of 1859 had imposed a tax of one quarter of one percent of assessed value, which was still in effect in 1866.
67 Sandalwood was Hawaii's first important export. During the first quarter of the nineteenth century it attracted large numbers of vessels, which transported it to China for use in the manufacture of incense. By the middle of the 1830s the once dense sandalwood groves had been almost totally destroyed. The abrupt contact with foreign values, the attendant corruption, and the severe hardships imposed on the people employed by the chiefs to gather the wood had pernicious effects that long outlasted this commodity.
68 Mrs. Samuel C. Damon was the first president of this society, which was organized in 1852 as a counterpart to the Seamen's Friend Society to care for sick and destitute travelers.
69 The largest Hawaiian forest tree, whose splendid wood was used in the coffin of Princess Victoria Kaahumanu Kamamalu, which produced “a sort of ecstasy” in Mark Twain (Sacramento Daily Union, 16 July 1866, MTH, p. 330). In 1908, in gratitude for his much-quoted testimonials to Hawaii, the Hawaii Promotion Committee would present Mark Twain with a mantel and accompanying breadfruit plaque of carved koa wood, “one of the handsomest pieces of furniture ever made in the Islands” (MTH, p. 242), for addition to Stormfield, his home in Redding, Connecticut. On 24 November of that year his secretary, Isabel V. Lyon, noted: “The Hawaiian mantel came today, but the beautiful Koa wood has been polished until it is terribly yellow, & it won't go anywhere.” Mark Twain “declared it too offensive” and “suggested that all that wonderful shine be scraped off. So the men carried it to the garage to reduce its coloring” (Isabel V. Lyon Journal, 24 November 1908). The subdued mantel was installed at Stormfield on Mark Twain's seventy-third birthday, at which time he thanked the promotion committee, writing that “it is rich in color, rich in quality, & rich in decoration. Therefore it exactly harmonises with the taste for such things which was born in me & which I have seldom been able to indulge to my content” (SLC to H. P. Wood, secretary of the Hawaii Promotion Committee, 30 November 1908, MTH, facing p. 243).
70 Near the end of this notebook Mark Twain recorded the traditional reason for the concealment of the bones of Kamehameha I, which were so well hidden that their location has not yet been determined. In “A Strange Dream” (New York Saturday Press, 2 June 1866), he would recount his imagined discovery of the remains of Kamehameha I in the crater of the active volcano Kilauea on the island of Hawaii.
71 Mark Twain must have been impressed with the versatility of this common greeting, which was used to express love, affection, gratitude, kindness, pity, compassion, grief, and even “to salute contemptuously” (Andrews, A Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language).
72 A series of laws enacted between 1839 and 1850 supplanted the feudal system of landholding with individual ownership.
73 The fort built at Waimea, Kauai, in 1817 under the direction of Georg Anton Scheffer, agent for the Russian American Company, which wished to establish regular commercial relations with the Sandwich Islands in order to secure a convenient source of supplies for its northern Pacific settlements and posts. The Russian presence at Waimea was brief. Soon after construction of the fort the king of Kauai, who had been supporting Scheffer's ambitious attempts to secure territorial as well as commercial concessions, drove the Russians off the island, apparently on orders from his overlord, Kamehameha I.
74 Nohili was an area on Kauai where the sand when walked upon sounded like the barking of a dog.
75 The steamship Kilauea, built in East Boston for the Hawaiian Steam Navigation Company, had been brought to the Sandwich Islands in 1860 for interisland service. A combination of mechanical failures, accidents, and the financial difficulties of its various owners made for a record of intermittent performance. The Kilauea was incapacitated during a major portion of Mark Twain's visit, for on 13 January 1866 it had run aground on the reef at Kawaihae, Hawaii, and didn't go back into service until 4 June, after salvage, repair, and sale. It was the Kilauea which on 16 June would bring Mark Twain back to Honolulu after his extended tour of the island of Hawaii.
76 From “Christmas Hymn” (“Calm on the listening ear of night ...”) by Edmund Hamilton Sears, also author of “The Angels' Song,” the well-known Christmas carol beginning “It came upon the midnight clear.”
77 The Reverend Samuel C. Damon's large library supplied Mark Twain with historical information about the Sandwich Islands.
78 A native drink made from the root of the kava shrub, “so terrific that mere whisky is foolishness to it. It turns a man's skin to white fish-scales that are so tough a dog might bite him, and he would not know it till he read about it in the papers” (Mark Twain's letter in New York Daily Tribune, 9 January 1873, MTH, p. 496).
79 The grand reception held at the royal palace on 15 October 1829 for Captain William Compton Bolton Finch and the other officers of the U.S.S. Vincennes, which was making a stop of almost two months' duration in the Hawaiian Islands. The splendid ostentation of this afternoon reception is indicated by the presence of night glasses—float-wick lamps or night lights in glass jars, normally used to light outdoor evening parties.
80 In 1843, despite the missionaries' desire to believe that this practice did not exist in pre-Christian Hawaii, the missionary historian Sheldon Dibble had reluctantly confirmed the existence around 1700 of a tribe of about three thousand cannibals at Halemanu on Oahu (Sheldon Dibble, A History of the Sandwich Islands Lahainaluna, Hawaiian Islands, 1843, pp. 133–135).
81 Notes sometimes called silver certificates, backed by coin on special deposit in the Hawaiian treasury, had been authorized in 1859. Although historians are still uncertain whether they were issued in 1866 or 1867, this entry suggests that the notes were in fact in circulation in the former year.
82 Laws passed in 1846 and 1859 had made United States coins the standard for Hawaii, but a large variety of foreign coins continued to fill the need for specie, among them the rial, or real, a Spanish and Mexican silver coin worth twelve and a half cents, the smallest coin the Hawaiians would willingly accept.
83 “A kind of luxurious kneading or shampooing, and stretching and cracking the joints, which served completely to renovate the system” (James Jackson Jarves, History of the Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands London: Edward Moxon, 1843, p. 78) was originally of particular use in maintaining mobility in the gargantuan Hawaiian chiefs. Clemens attested to the efficacy of lomi-lomi on 4 May 1866, when he wrote his mother and sister that after a horse had kicked him across a ten-acre lot “a native rubbed and doctored me so well that I was able to stand on my feet in half an hour” (MTL, p. 105).
84 Ventures in importing ice—in 1852 from San Francisco, in 1853 from Sitka, Alaska, and in 1858 and 1859 from Boston—had not been successful, since too few Honolulu residents could afford the usual price of twenty-five cents a pound.
85 Acts passed in 1854 and 1862 had established an annual fee of $1,000, along with a bond of $1,000, for the licensing of retail liquor sales. Laws such as these were of little value in achieving the temperate community desired by the missionaries. Illegal production of liquor in the islands, as well as smuggling, would have defeated the temperance movement, even if there had not been a surfeit of dealers willing to operate in conformity with the licensing laws. In 1866 there were nine establishments licensed to retail liquor in Honolulu. Most of these called themselves hotels, but the designation was only technical, for “although a ‘hotel’ might offer lodging, more often it tendered nothing more than ‘spirits’—then an overworked euphemism for hard liquor” (Richard A. Greer, Downtown Profile: Honolulu A Century Ago Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 1966, p. 6).
86 Further conditions of the land grant by Kamehameha III for a Honolulu Sailor's Home were that no rum be sold on the premises, no “bad women” be kept there, and no gambling be allowed. The sailor's home officially opened on 1 September 1856 at an estimated total cost of $15,000.
87 The Oahu Bethel Church, presided over by the Reverend Samuel C. Damon.
88 The foreign postal rates had been established by Postmaster General David Kalakaua's Post Office Notice of 3 December 1864. Until 1 August 1859, when the domestic fee Mark Twain noted here was set, interisland mail had been transmitted without charge because of the missionaries' desire to encourage an educational exchange of letters between native correspondents.
89 A mail contract signed on 30 July 1867 with the California, Oregon and Mexico Steamship Company, providing for twelve round trips per year for ten years between San Francisco and Honolulu, would be a prelude to the first formal postal treaty between the United States and the Hawaiian Kingdom, which was to go into effect on 1 July 1870.
90 A Honolulu gas company had been chartered by a legislative act of 12 March 1859. According to a contemporary account, after a brief period when hotels and some other buildings were lighted with gas, “the resident manager of the Company, left for California, after mortgaging the works to parties here, for the purpose, as stated, of procuring necessary machinery and material. He never returned, and after a time, the enterprise was abandoned, entailing a considerable amount of loss on those who had gone to the expense of gas fittings for their houses” (Chauncey C. Bennett, Honolulu Directory, and Historical Sketch of the Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands Honolulu: C. C. Bennett, 1869, p. 44). Despite the implication of chicanery, the account concluded curiously that the gas company's failure “was undoubtedly owing to the fact that the limited demand for gas was not commensurate with the outlay required to produce it.”
91 Emma Naea Rooke, queen of Kamehameha IV, was the daughter of Fanny Kakelaokalani Young and granddaughter of John Young, who had achieved prominence as an aide to Kamehameha I. She was adopted in childhood by her maternal aunt, Grace Kamaikui Young, whose English husband, Dr. Thomas Charles Byde Rooke, had come to Hawaii in 1829, where he practiced medicine, held a number of government offices, and, according to an unsubstantiated rumor current at the time of Mark Twain's visit, fathered Emma Naea. Dr. Rooke's influence on Emma was great, and he has been held responsible for the English predilections which characterized her reign as queen.
92 The following seven entries refer to a visit to the government prison in Honolulu.
93 An “Act to Mitigate the Evils and Diseases Arising from Prostitution,” passed 24 August 1860, required that prostitutes be registered, examined for disease at least every two weeks, and, if necessary, treated free of charge.
94 The laws licensing the hula and restricting its performance to Honolulu, part of the Civil Code of 1859, were reportedly the product of Lot Kamehameha's (Kamehameha V) dismay at discovering that devotion to the dance had “demoralized the natives all through the country, and broke up all work” (R. A. Lyman, “Recollections of Kamehameha V,” Third Annual Report of the Hawaiian Historical Society 1895: 15–16).
95 For the missionaries and some government officials dancing was as much of a menace as drinking. Throughout the 1850s unsuccessful attempts had been made to abolish the dance halls, which seemed responsible for the fornication and adultery which were perpetual embarrassments to Honolulu. Although a law restricting dance halls had been passed as recently as 1864, it was the decline of the whaling industry, and not this legislation, that was ending the dance hall era in Honolulu.
96 Mark Twain does not overestimate the Hawaiian Kingdom's political indebtedness to American missionary advisers during most of the reign of Kamehameha II (20 May 1819 to 14 July 1824) and throughout the reign of Kamehameha III (6 June 1825 to 15 December 1854). Gerrit P. Judd was particularly useful in meeting challenges to Hawaiian sovereignty from England in 1843 and France in 1849. Missionary participation in government decreased considerably, however, during the reigns of Kamehameha IV and Kamehameha V, both of whom had been raised under the repressive influence of the missionaries and felt a corresponding distaste for the principles of their teachers.
97 This incident, involving the children of Mrs. Henry MacFarlane, occurred during a major smallpox epidemic in the spring and summer of 1853. One of the boys, “young Henry MacFarlane,” went along on the “notable equestrian excursion” to Diamond Head on Oahu, described in Sacramento Daily Union letters of 21 and 24 April 1866 (MTH, pp. 284–295). By December 1866 Henry MacFarlane had come to San Francisco, where Mark Twain found him working as “clerk at Wm. B. Cooke & Co's, Stationers, Montgomery Block, Montgomery street above Washington” (SLC to “Dear Miss Bella,” 4 December 1866).
98 A Honolulu cooper, whose place of business was on King Street at the corner of Bethel Street. Marshfield was Lewis' residence at Waikiki.
99 There was no such official. Mark Twain may be referring to the person, probably Captain James Smith (see note 19), who in chapter 62 of Roughing It is portrayed as “the old Admiral” whose title “was the voluntary offering of a whole nation, and came direct from ... the people of the Sandwich Islands.”
100 Ed Hayden, five-year-old grandson of the Reverend and Mrs. Asa Thurston, who, along with his mother, Mary Hayden, and his uncle, the Reverend Thomas Thurston (see note 15), had come to Hawaii aboard the Ajax, died of croup on 24 March 1866 and was buried the following day.
101 Captain James Makee arrived in the Sandwich Islands in April 1843 to seek medical assistance after a murderous shipboard attack and remained to become one of Hawaii's leading merchants, shipowners, and planters. His Rose Ranch plantation at Ulupalakua on Maui, one of the showplaces of the Sandwich Islands and its most productive sugar plantation, was famed for its hospitality.
102 Before visiting the Sandwich Islands in the mid-1860s to gather seeds and farming information as the “accredited delegate” of the California State Agricultural Society, John Quincy Adams Warren had been connected with a number of agricultural publications as agent, editor, or publisher. His most significant labor had been as an agricultural correspondent, and his 1860 to 1862 letters to the American Stock Journal remain the best contemporary account of California farming. Although Warren succeeded in introducing a sheep-shearing machine to the Sandwich Islands, it was his boorish behavior rather than his agricultural competence which most impressed residents there. On 12 May 1866 the Pacific Commercial Advertiser would chide Warren about the startling Honolulu street scene in which he was brusquely dispossessed of his horse by the lady from whom he had purchased it with “an order for the value on the proprietors of the American Flag, in San Francisco, which they refused to pay.” And on the same day the Honolulu paper carried a notice signed by the American Flag's publisher, which warned that Warren was “in no way connected as Agent or Correspondent, from and after this date.” In September 1866, at the thirteenth annual fair of the California State Agricultural Society, which Mark Twain helped report for the Sacramento Daily Union, Warren would mount a gaudy display of his Hawaiian materials, including agricultural products, geological and aquatic curiosities, specimens of native insects, and life-size photographs of members of the Hawaiian court.
103 Dr. Robert W. Wood had come to the Sandwich Islands in 1839. For the next ten years he was physician at the United States Hospital for Seamen in Honolulu. In the late 1840s Wood became involved in sugar production which was to occupy him for more than twenty years. During this time he was instrumental in the introduction of improved methods of sugar cultivation and processing.
104 In this entry Mark Twain laments the lack of a distinct Hawaiian equivalent for each English expression, although these are all included among the many meanings of aloha (see note 71).
105 A reference to the Hawaiian foster relationship known as hanai, a sort of communal sharing of the responsibilities of parenthood.
106 Probably luau'i makuahine, meaning the “true mother.”
107 On 15 November 1851, Sam Brannan, a prominent California pioneer and public figure, sometimes called “the first forty-niner,” arrived in Hawaii aboard the clipper Game-Cock at the head of a filibustering expedition. It was Brannan's intention to convince Kamehameha III to place the kingdom in his hands and retire on an annuity. To house his followers Brannan purchased the Bungalow, a palatial coral-stone building on Richard Street built by Theodore Shillaber, a Honolulu merchant in the 1840s and later a merchant and landowner in San Francisco. After some ludicrous machinations, Brannan gave up his attempt to win control of the Sandwich Islands. He returned to San Francisco on 2 January 1852, to be greeted by the general scorn of that city.
108 John Young, adviser to Kamehameha I, had six children by his two marriages to native women. Dowager Queen Emma, who was alive in 1866, was Young's grandchild by a daughter, not a son.
109 Alexander Adams, born in Forfarshire, Scotland, in 1780, was a veteran of the Battle of Trafalgar and had also seen service with the British navy on the coasts of Spain and Portugal before coming to the Sandwich Islands in 1810. He became one of the most trusted members of the entourage of Kamehameha I, serving the king in civil as well as military capacities. Adams was captain of the royal ship Kaahumanu and in some sources is credited with creation of the Hawaiian flag during a voyage to Canton in 1817.
110 In his letter in the Sacramento Daily Union on 25 October 1866, Mark Twain would parody “The Burial of Sir John Moore,” Charles Wolfe's poetic tribute to the British lieutenant-general who died 16 January 1809 as a result of a wound in the famous battle at Corunna, Spain, during the Peninsular War with Napoleon's forces.
111 A partner in Walker, Allen & Co., “Importers and Commission Merchants—Dealers in General Merchandise, and Agents for the Sale of Island produce” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 21 April 1866).
112 A total eclipse of the moon occurred on 30 March 1866.
113 Sam Loller was proprietor of the Eureka Hotel & Restaurant on Hotel Street in Honolulu. No incidence of smallpox on either voyage of the Ajax has been discovered.
114 William Richards, a member of the Second Company of American missionaries, arrived in Honolulu in 1823. He left the mission in 1838 at an urgent request that he become confidential adviser to Kamehameha III. Richards' immediate task was to educate the king and chiefs in the methods of government, with particular emphasis on the definition of their rights in dealing with foreigners. He later accepted diplomatic responsibilities and, for a short period that ended with his death in 1847, also held the office of minister of public instruction. The remark which Mark Twain quoted here came in the conclusion to a brief but biting portrayal of Richards in Hawaii: The Past, Present, and Future of Its Island-Kingdom (London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1862, p. 242) by Manley Hopkins, Hawaiian consul general in London, an exponent of Anglican church activities in Hawaii and an acerbic critic of the secular pursuits of the American missionaries. Hopkins' disparagement of Richards' abilities and motives had brought protest from Hawaii, particularly from the Reverend Samuel C. Damon in his review of the book in The Friend of 1 November 1862. Its second edition (London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1866) may have been causing new concern at the time of Mark Twain's visit since, despite a “spirit of conciliation” promised in his preface, Hopkins had reproduced almost verbatim the text of his commentary upon Richards. Modern historical opinion has supported Richards' record of selfless devotion to the Hawaiian people, though acknowledging that his chief qualification for the post of king's adviser was his availability.
115 In the preface to the first edition of his book Hopkins qualified a statement of indebtedness to James Jackson Jarves' History of the Hawaiian Islands, 3d. ed. (Honolulu: C. E. Hitchcock, 1847) with the comment that “a little circumspection is, of course, required in accepting the views of an American citizen on points wherein other nations are concerned” (Hopkins, Hawaii, 1862, p. xvi).
116 Ed Burgess, “Honolulu's pioneer restaurateur” (Greer, Downtown Profile, p. 6), was proprietor of a saloon on Fort Street in 1866.
117 William Cooper Parke, once a Honolulu cabinetmaker, had been commissioned marshal of the Hawaiian Islands in 1850, a position he held for thirty-four years. As marshal, Parke was responsible for the maintenance of public order, which duty he discharged by organizing and administering a Hawaiian police force.
118 This variety of cat was brought to Oahu around 1850 by a visiting ship's captain. The occasion for his gift is described in Notebook 5, note 108.
119 Harieta Nahienaena, daughter of Kamehameha I, was reportedly one of the last people to have seen Malo's book.
120 Probably a corruption of poo-hu-ai, meaning “a pain; a disease; the head-ache” (Andrews, Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language).
121 H. D. Dunn had come to Hawaii on the first trip of the Ajax and stayed from 27 January to 4 April 1866 to write a series of travel letters for the San Francisco Bulletin.
122 The Reverend George Mason, one of Bishop Thomas N. Staley's Anglican subordinates, resided at Lahaina, Maui.
123 James Makee's Rose Ranch at Ulupalakua, Maui. Mark Twain may have been directed there by Charles Warren Stoddard. Stoddard had stayed at Rose Ranch in 1864 while visiting with his sister, who was married to James Makee's son Parker.
124 The vestiges of the original Mormon settlement on Lanai (see note 8).
125 Mark Twain did not quite realize this ambitious itinerary. The actual sequence of his travels is discussed at length in the headnote to Notebook 5.
126 The incidence of leprosy in the Hawaiian Islands is discussed in Notebook 5, note 32.
127 

On this date Clemens wrote his mother and sister:

I went with the American Minister James McBride and took dinner this evening with the King's Grand Chamberlain David Kalakaua, who would reign as King of the Hawaiian Islands from 12 February 1874 until 20 January 1891, who is related to the royal family, and although darker than a mulatto, he has an excellent English education and in manners is an accomplished gentleman. The dinner was as ceremonious as any I ever attended in California—five regular courses, and five kinds of wine and one of brandy. He is to call for me in the morning with his carriage, and we will visit the King at the palace. (MTL, p. 104)

Mark Twain in fact visited Iolani Palace on 4 April 1866, as evidenced by his signature in the guest register, along with that of Ajax purser Ormsby Hite.

128 This entry is so nearly illegible it may have been made on horseback. Mark Twain here refers to ali'ipoe, the Hawaiian name for canna.
129 High chiefess Bernice Pauahi and her husband, Charles R. Bishop, left Honolulu for San Francisco on board the Ajax on 4 April 1866.
130 Elisha Allen made two extended stays in Washington, in 1856/1857 in an attempt to influence passage of a reciprocity treaty, and in 1864/1865 again on behalf of reciprocity and to secure United States participation with Britain and France in a guarantee of Hawaiian independence. On neither occasion was Allen able to achieve the Hawaiian government's objectives.
131 Although the United States had raised the rank of its envoy to minister resident (see note 12), the French and English diplomatic representatives in Hawaii continued to hold the lesser title of commissioner.
132 The treaty signed on 20 December 1849, which established the general terms of United States-Hawaii relations until annexation. For a discussion of reciprocity, see Notebook 5, note 51.
133 The Reverend Peyton Gallagher, an American Episcopal assistant to the pastor of the Hawaiian Reformed Catholic Church in Honolulu.
134 Mark Twain squeezed in “are” after the dash and underlined “you.” The rest of this rhyme is in another hand.
135 Mark Twain meant Nuuanu Valley on Oahu, site of Gerrit P. Judd's home.
136 The Reverend Rufus Anderson, foreign secretary of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, had been in Hawaii in 1863 to assist in the development of a program to create an independent native church organization. Although not granted a private audience with Kamehameha IV, Anderson claimed that despite his prejudice against Americans the king was courteous to him personally and invited him to the public reception of the American minister resident, “where his attentions were all that could have been expected” (Rufus Anderson, The Hawaiian Islands: Their Progress and Condition Under Missionary Labors, 3d. ed. Boston: Gould and Lincoln, 1865, p. 326).
137 In November 1865, in violation of a law prohibiting the removal of natives, Thomas B. Hanham, captain and owner of the British yacht Themis, attempted to carry off a half-white woman, apparently on a dare from Minister of the Interior F. W. Hutchinson. A slapstick pursuit mounted by Marshal W. C. Parke, first aboard a Honolulu tug and then on board a makeshift gunboat, failed to apprehend Hanham, who nevertheless decided to relinquish the woman and landed her, as well as a half-caste man he also had with him, at Waialua, Oahu.
138 Evidently this is Mark Twain's attempt at a fictional name for Bishop Thomas N. Staley. Letters by Staley were sometimes published in the Honolulu newspapers over the signature “T. N. Honolulu.”
139 Henry Severance, a Honolulu auctioneer.
140 George H. Luce had been a Honolulu port pilot in the 1850s and in 1866 was road supervisor and tax collector for the District of Honolulu.
141 Kamehameha IV died 30 November 1863.
142 This entry, added in black ink on a blank page at the end of Notebook 6, which otherwise was used only in March and April, properly corresponds to the period covered by Notebook 5. Its placement here indicates Mark Twain's own confusion about the sequence of his Hawaiian notebooks.
143 James McBride, outgoing American minister resident.
144 Brevet Lieutenant Colonel William Rumsey, a Civil War veteran, was nephew and secretary to General Robert B. Van Valkenburgh, minister resident to Japan.
145 Mark Twain wrote to Will Bowen on 25 August 1866: “While I was there, the American Ministers to China & Japan——Mr. Burlingame & Gen. Van Valkenburg came along, & we just made Honolulu howl. I only got tight once, though. I know better than to get tight oftener than once in 3 months. It sets a man back in the esteem of people whose opinions are worth having” (TS in MTP).
146 The heading and first five phrases of this lexicon, apparently the beginning of a personal phonetic glossary Clemens intended to expand gradually while traveling in Hawaii, appear upside-down on the last page of this notebook. They were probably inscribed around the middle of March, when he began using the notebook from the front for preliminary notes about Hawaii. The balance of the lexicon, copied or extrapolated from the small phrase book mentioned earlier (note 29), appears in normal position on the same page and on the recto of the back flyleaf and was added later.
147 This system of numbers, 1 through 5, enclosed in symbols in the manuscript notebook (see the accompanying illustration), is keyed to entries on the first 103 pages, which Mark Twain numbered. The table is written across the top of the verso of the back flyleaf onto the top of the back endpaper. It constitutes Mark Twain's preliminary outline for his first five Sacramento Daily Union letters. It was made in late March or early April, when, shortly before setting out for Maui, he was almost certainly preparing an initial group of seven letters, all dated in March, for dispatch on the Ajax, which left Honolulu on 4 April and arrived in San Francisco on 15 April, one day prior to the appearance of his first letter in the Sacramento Daily Union. The correspondence between this schematic version and the finished letters is, however, a rough one. Some of the entries marked for inclusion in the first letter were not used at all, while others were incorporated into the second when Mark Twain decided to devote two letters to events of the Ajax voyage. Of the entries here indicated for inclusion in the second letter, those actually used were displaced to the third, and most of those intended for the third were reserved for the fourth, after which the outline was abandoned. (See note 3 for a discussion of the asterisks on most of the numbered entries.)
148 In his fifth letter to the Sacramento Daily Union, published on 20 April, Mark Twain described the Honolulu algarroba, or carob tree, commenting that “my spelling is guesswork” (MTH, p. 279). The entry is written on the back of the flyleaf.
Emendations and Doubtful Readings
 group • group i possibly the beginning of ‘is’, left incomplete and uncancelled; emended
 noon •  noo
 pilot.— •  possibly ‘pilot—’
 horseback •  horse- | back
 demijohns •  demi- | johns
 bedclothes •  bed- | clothes
 in m •  possibly in w
 came •  possibly ‘come
 hala-nut—necklaces •  hala- | nut possibly ‘hala-nut-necklaces’
 MRode •  possibly URode’
 hand-cart •  hand- | cart
 smallpox •  possibly ‘small-pox’
 to-day •  possibly ‘today’
 silk worm •  possibly ‘silk-worm’ or ‘silkworm’
 Good-bye •  possibly ‘Good bye’
 first rate •  possibly ‘first-rate’
 Bob-tail •  Bob- | tail
 sea-sickness •  sea- | sickness
 Silver sheer •  ‘Silver’ possibly ‘Silver-’ or ‘Silvy’; ‘sheer’ possibly ‘sheen’ or ‘shiny’
 S • S S emended
 half-witted •  half- | witted
 jackass •  jack- | ass
Textual Notes
 1866 overwritten with pen
 “Sleep . . . fire----!” written with the notebook inverted
 Hawaii. at the bottom of the page below this word Clemens wrote the instruction ‘(over)’
 addnd ‘nd’ written over ‘dd’
 fees ., the comma written over the period
 Young . . . Board. written on a page originally left blank; follows three blank pages
 10 30-ton rocks ‘3’ written over ‘1’
 Moral Phenomenon. circled
 Kananka the second ‘n’ of ‘Kananka’ canceled
 gens d'armes. servants. ‘servants.’ interlined below ‘gens d'armes.’.
 a'bout ‘a’ canceled and the apostrophe added
 grandfather.” a flourish originally ending the entry here was overwritten and the entry was continued
 see page after next. the paragraph about the Hawaiian flag that begins at the bottom of leaf_020r is interrupted in the manuscript by the entries describing the Ajax on the leaf's reverse side (leaf_020v). The paragraph continues on leaf_021r, where Clemens inserted ‘(Go back 2 pages.)’ in the upper margin.
 (Go back 2 pages.) 3 the ‘41’ below this inserted line is a page number. Clemens probably boxed it to set it apart from the writing above and below it. Like other page numbers, this one has been emended.
 McIntyre . . . Scot. a flourish below the manuscript line ‘McIntyre, pilot .—old’ originally ended the entry within that line, probably at ‘pilot.’; it was overwritten and the entry was continued; the dash preceding ‘old’ appears to cover a period
 American hHotels gouge s ‘H’ written over ‘h’
 charges ‘s’ possibly added as an afterthought
 oin ‘i’ written over ‘o’
 choose ‘se’ written over ‘os’
 Cigar . . . me written in brown ink except for the asterisk and ‘1’ in pencil
 Whistler . . . yet. written in brown ink except for the asterisk and ‘2’ in pencil
 Ka-meaa-meeah Ka-meea-meeah ‘e’ written over first ‘a’ of ‘meaa’
 for him. a flourish originally ending the entry here was overwritten and the entry was continued
201.6 See Friend
 400,000 a flourish originally ending the entry here was overwritten and the entry was continued
 Union Question. a flourish originally ending the entry here was overwritten and the entry was continued
 su dusk ‘du’ written over ‘su’
 Missions circled at the top of a page above ‘night by no other’; apparently written as a heading and subsequently engulfed by the passage describing the volcano
 dedad ‘ad’ written over ‘d’
 year .the dash written over the period
 tobacco ., a flourish originally ending the entry at ‘tobacco.’ was overwritten and the entry was continued; the period was mended to a comma
 yet. the rule ending the entry here may have been overwritten
 Gas . . . night circled
 $ 100,000 150,000 ‘150’ written over ‘100’
 The rose . . . so—are you. originally ‘The rose . . . so—you.’ not in Clemens' hand; Clemens added ‘are’ and italicized ‘you’
 July 4 . . . 5th.— written in black ink; followed by 18 blank pages
 Kanaka . . . mahea written on the last ruled page
 Kanaka . . . kakunani written with the notebook inverted
 How much . . . don't know written lengthwise on the page
 1 —page 4 . . . 9, written on the verso of the back flyleaf; the numbers in each group are written in a single line so that the first group (the ‘8’ of ‘28’ and ‘32 . . . 72’) and the third (‘51, 52, 84,’) carry over onto the endpaper
 Boy . . . again written with the notebook inverted
 J.Q.A. . . . here. written in black ink on the back cover
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