“The Great Pleasure Excursion to Europe and the Holy Land”

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VIII “The Great Pleasure Excursion to Europe and the Holy Land”
(May–July 1867)

Notebook 8 was evidently begun in mid-May 1867, less than three weeks before Clemens sailed in the Quaker City for Europe and the Holy Land. It is the first of three surviving Quaker City notebooks and contains notes that Clemens made primarily for his letters to the San Francisco Alta California, and so by extension for his first major book, The Innocents Abroad. He did make some early notes in New York for letters he sent to the Alta before the trip began, but by far the largest portion of the notebook was filled with his initially enthusiastic record of the excursion, as the travelers made their way across the Atlantic to the Azores, then to Gibraltar and Tangier. He discontinued Notebook 8 shortly after 2 July as the ship sailed for Marseilles, although he added several brief entries at a later time. Clemens used most of his notes in sequence, elaborating on them in four letters to the Alta and one to the New York Herald. Since his newspaper letters often provide the best possible annotation for the notebook, the reader should consult them, along with The Innocents Abroad, which Clemens composed from the letters, incorporating revisions, and making additions occasionally supplied by these Quaker City notebooks. The letters from New York sent before departure have been collected in Mark Twain's Travels with Mr. Brown, edited by Franklin Walker and G. Ezra Dane (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1940). The letters from the excursion itself appear in Traveling with the Innocents Abroad, edited by D. M. McKeithan (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1958).

The interval from January 1867 (when Notebook 7 breaks off) to mid-May 1867 (when Notebook 8 begins) was a period of considerable stress and activity for Clemens. He may simply have been too preoccupied with work to keep a notebook, or it may have been lost. Except for a six-week excursion to Saint Louis in March and April, most of the undocumented period was spent in New York. It was very much changed from the city he had first visited in 1853: “I have at last, after several months' experience,” he wrote the Alta on June 5, “made up my mind that it is a splendid desert—a domed and steepled solitude, where the stranger is lonely in the midst of a million of his race” ( MTTB , p. 259). In three long letters to the Alta, all written in February, he inspected varied aspects of city life, ranging from a performance of Broadway's notorious burlesque, The Black Crook (“It is the wonders of the Arabian Nights realized”), to an afternoon church service known as “Bishop Southgate's matinee”—each, as he said of the bishop, “in pursuance of my desire to test all the amusements of the metropolis” ( MTTB , pp. 86, 95). The cure for his restless loneliness, however, was not to be found in New York's amusements, but in the chance to go to sea again.

The strain of urban life seems to have overtaken him as early as February 23, when he wrote to the Alta that he was suffering from “the blues” and that his “thoughts persistently ran on funerals and suicide” ( MTTB , p. 101). The immediate cure was “the monster they call the Russian Bath,” but soon afterward—seven weeks after landing in New York—he hit upon a more congenial way to fulfill his obligations as correspondent. “A great European pleasure excursion for the coming summer,” he wrote the Alta on March 2, “promises a vast amount of enjoyment for a very reasonable outlay.” He went on to describe the extensive itinerary and to specify what kind of a trip these “prominent Brooklynites” had envisioned for themselves. “Isn't it a most attractive scheme?” he asked. “Five months of utter freedom from care and anxiety of every kind, and in company with a set of people who will go only to enjoy themselves, and will never mention a word about business during the whole voyage. It is very pleasant to contemplate” ( MTTB , pp. 111, 113). The prospect of life aboard ship was so pleasant, in fact, that he resolved to go if the Alta would extend his roving commission and pay the $1,250 fare. Even before the paper's response was known, Clemens made a down payment, and then happily left the city for Saint Louis, where he lectured, wrote newspaper articles, and after six weeks said farewell to his family.

When Clemens returned to New York in mid-April, he still had much to do before the ship would sail, and April and May found him increasingly busy. His literary ambition seems clear: to make “Mark Twain” as familiar and acceptable to sophisticated eastern readers as he was already on the Pacific Coast. “Make your mark in New York, and you are a made man,” he wrote the Alta on May 17. “With a New York endorsement you may travel the country over . . . without fear—but without it you are speculating upon a dangerous issue” ( MTTB , p. 176). He had five of his Sandwich Islands letters reprinted in the New York Weekly Review, and by the time of departure he would place seven fresh articles with the New York Sunday Mercury. In late April Charles Henry Webb published Clemens' first book, The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County, and Other Sketches, which, as the sympathetic reviewer in the Times suggested, was calculated to introduce Mark Twain “to the lovers of humor in the Atlantic States” (1 May 1867). Finally, he asked Frank Fuller to assist him in arranging his first lectures before a New York audience—on May 6, 10, and 16.

On his return from Saint Louis he moved to more sophisticated lodgings from his usual quarters at the Metropolitan Hotel—which was known as “the resort of Californians and people from the new States and Territories” (Junius Henri Browne in The Great Metropolis Hartford: American Publishing Company, 1869, p. 394). On April 19 he wrote his family from the Westminster: “Direct my letters to this hotel in future. I am just fixed, now. It is the gem of all hotels. I have never come across one so perfectly elegant in all its appointments & so sumptuously & tastefully furnished. Full of ‘bloated aristocrats’ too, & I'm just one of them kind myself.”

Like the Westminster, the Quaker City excursion seemed to offer physical luxury and social prestige. He wrote the Alta on April 30:

Our ship in which we are to sail for the Holy Land, is to be furnished with a battery of guns for firing salutes, by order of the Secretary of the Navy, and Mr. Seward has addressed a letter to all foreign powers, requesting that every attention be shown General Sherman and his party. . . . I have got a handsome state room on the upper deck and a regular brick for a roommate. We have got the pleasantest and jolliest party of passengers that ever sailed out of New York, and among them a good many young ladies and a couple of preachers, but we don't mind them. Young ladies are well enough anywhere, and preachers are always pleasant company when they are off duty. ( MTTB , pp. 165–166)

As Stephen M. Griswold recalled, years later: “Mr. Beecher contemplated writing a Life of Christ. He expressed a desire to visit the sacred places of Palestine . . . and wanted several members of Plymouth Church to go with him” (Sixty Years with Plymouth Church New York: Fleming H. Revell Co., 1907, p. 153). Captain Charles Duncan's prospectus for the voyage assured Clemens, moreover, that the “select company” could be “easily made up in this immediate vicinity, of mutual friends and acquaintances” (The Innocents Abroad, chapter 1). The presence of Beecher and his congregation, accompanied by General Sherman, was designed to assure the congeniality as well as the proper social standing of the passengers, who were to be approved by the “merciless” Committee on Applications. After paying his passage on 15 April, Clemens wrote to his family:

A newspaper man came in & asked how many names were booked & what notabilities were going, & a fellow (I don't know who he was, but he seemed to be connected with the concern,) said, “Lt. Gen. Sherman, Henry Ward Beecher & Mark Twain are going, & probably Gen. Banks!” I thought that was very good—an exceedingly good joke for a poor ignorant clerk. (The Clifton Waller Barrett Library, University of Virginia)

Clemens may have begun to feel that the joke was really on him when, early in May, Beecher withdrew from the excursion. The immediate consequence was that forty members of Plymouth Church who had planned to accompany their pastor also declined to go. Three weeks later, General Sherman publicly announced that he would be detained by the Indian wars and could not travel with the excursion.

The withdrawal of both men had financial consequences as well as diminishing the prestige of the excursion. Captain Duncan, who had been planning the trip as early as November 1866 and who had a personal interest in the financial success of the venture, found his passenger list well short of the one hundred ten travelers he had expected. With only weeks left before departure, it was clearly no longer possible to assemble a select company from mutual friends and acquaintances. As the passenger list shows, a large proportion of the passengers came from Ohio and other western states, and relatively few from Brooklyn, or even the East Coast. The religious influence of Plymouth Church would not now be exerted through the worldly and genial Henry Ward Beecher, but rather through that “psalm singing hypocrite”—as the ship's co owner Daniel Leary called him—Captain Charles Duncan. Moreover, the pleasant and sophisticated companions that Clemens anticipated became instead a solemn and provincial, although prosperous, group of elderly tourists. When the trip was over, Clemens would write Mrs. Fairbanks, one of the few friends he made on the voyage, that there were only eight of the sixty-five passengers that he cared to remember:

My opinion of the rest of the gang is so mean, & so vicious, & so outrageous in every way, that I could not collect the terms to express it with out of any less than sixteen or seventeen different languages. Such another drove of cattle never went to sea before. Select party! Well, I pass. ( MTMF , p. 5)

Clemens had felt some anxiety about his fellow passengers even before sailing. To the Alta he reported encountering one passenger who seriously asked the captain whether “the excursion would come to a halt on Sundays” and when told that it would not, betrayed his shallow piety. “I thought I perceived that he was not good and holy, but only sagacious, and so I turned the key on my valise and moved it out of his reach. I shall have to keep an eye on that fellow” ( MTTB , pp. 276–277). But, as the notebook shows, the dichotomy between pilgrim and sinner that he was to exploit in The Innocents Abroad was actually preceded by a more general dissatisfaction with the passengers. The three travelers that he sketches in the notebook as the voyage begins are all ridiculed for their lack of sophistication, coarseness, and naiveté. As he wrote John Russell Young of the New York Tribune after the voyage, what he really yearned to ridicule was “the Quaker City's strange menagerie of ignorance, imbecility, bigotry & dotage” (Library of Congress).

Clemens' most immediate concern before departure was the preparation of letters to the Alta. Those he sent show him methodically generating copy—by visiting the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, the Midnight Mission for prostitutes, the New York Travellers' Club, the Blind Asylum. He reported on the exhibition at the Academy of Design, on Albert Bierstadt's latest painting, the most recent New York crimes, and a variety of touring San Francisco performers who were appearing in New York. Despite his restless enterprise, by mid-May he found himself seriously behind on his Alta correspondence. On May 20 he wrote his family: “Don't—don't ask me to write, for a week or two. I am 18 Alta letters behindhand, & I must catch up or bust. I have refused all invitations to lecture in the interior towns of this & neighboring States, & have settled down to work.” But his own lack of inspiration and the oppressiveness of New York combined to prevent him from completing more than six letters. “I have just written myself clear out in letters to the Alta,” he wrote his family on June 7, “and I think they are the stupidest letters that were ever written from New York. Corresponding has been a perfect drag ever since I got to the states. If it continues abroad, I don't know what the Tribune and Alta folks will think” ( MTL , p. 127).

Clemens' mood gradually darkened as he waited impatiently for the ship to sail, trying at the same time to generate copy for the Alta in New York. Both his public and his private letters reveal a harried, restless state of mind that would not be dispelled for several weeks. On June 1, probably aware of Captain Duncan's deteriorating passenger list, Clemens wrote his family:

I know I ought to write oftener . . . but I cannot overcome my repugnance to telling what I am doing or what I expect to do or propose to do. . . . It isn't any use for me to talk about the voyage, because I can have no faith in that voyage till the ship is under way. How do I know she will ever sail? . . . All I do know or feel, is, that I am wild with impatience to move—move—move! ( MTL , p. 125)

On June 7, just before departure, he seemed filled with vague feelings of guilt—for not helping his brother more, for not writing oftener, perhaps for going away at all.

My mind is stored full of unworthy conduct toward Orion and towards you all, and an accusing conscience gives me peace only in excitement and restless moving from place to place. If I could say I had done one thing for any of you . . . I believe I could go home and stay there and I know I would care little for the world's praise or blame. . . . You observe that under a cheerful exterior I have got a spirit that is angry with me and gives me freely its contempt. I can get away from that at sea. ( MTL , p. 128)

The attraction of “restless moving from place to place” and of the sea voyage seemed to enlarge even though the prospect of genteel association faded. On the same day Clemens wrote Will Bowen that although he anticipated five or six months of a “jolly, sociable, homelike trip,” when it was over “if we all go to the bottom, I think we shall be fortunate. There is no unhappiness like the misery of sighting land (and work) again after a cheerful, careless voyage. They were lucky boys that went down in sight of home the other day when the Santiago de Cuba stranded on the New Jersey shore” ( MTLBowen , p. 15). And perhaps even more explicitly, he confided similar feelings of depression (blaming them on New York) to his Alta readers:

There is something about this ceaseless buzz, and hurry, and bustle, that keeps a stranger in a state of unwholesome excitement all the time, and makes him restless and uneasy, and saps from him all capacity to enjoy anything or take a strong interest in any matter whatever—a something which impels him to try to do everything, and yet permits him to do nothing. . . . This fidgetty, feverish restlessness will drive a man crazy, after a while, or kill him. It kills a good many dozens now—by suicide. I have got to get out of it. ( MTTB , pp. 260–261)

Finally, on June 8, he did leave. Even though rough weather confined the ship to New York harbor for two days, he was glad simply to be aboard. In chapter 2 of The Innocents Abroad he would recall that despite the inauspicious weather he had felt the “cheering influence” of the sea and when he retired that night was “rocked by the measured swell of the waves, and lulled by the murmur of the distant surf” until he passed “tranquilly out of all consciousness of the dreary experiences of the day and damaging premonitions of the future.” The notebook reflects his change of mood with a drastic shift away from the elliptical, desultory New York notes to a series of extended sketches of fellow passengers and a burlesque of the ship's regulations. His depression found relief in private vituperation and ridicule that had obvious literary potential. The spark of the future book is even recorded in somewhat cryptic fashion: “Stupid remarks & ? from ? every now & then—make him a character” (p. 340).

Despite his initial testiness, Clemens seems to have joined, and even to have helped initiate, various shipboard activities: a birthday party for the captain's wife, a social club to discuss routes of travel and points of interest, a mock trial, a debating club. The captain's log records some of the other amusements provided during the sometimes stormy passage to the Azores: Bloodgood Cutter read repeatedly from his verse; stereopticon slides were shown; and the Quaker City trio provided several evening concerts and music for religious services and for the first of the shipboard dances. Clemens attended these functions, but seems to have found as much contentment in playing cards or dominoes, smoking, and drinking late into the night. “Horse-billiards” on the foredeck also attracted him: “It is a fine game. It affords good, active exercise, hilarity, and consuming excitement. It is a mixture of ‘hop-scotch’ and shuffle-board played with a crutch” (The Innocents Abroad, chapter 4).

The ship arrived in the port of Fayal on June 21, and Clemens began taking notes in earnest. The ship's company was entertained by the United States consul, Charles Dabney, whose sister Clara wrote her family on the occasion that “one young man had his note book out all the time and remarked as I gave him some verbena, ‘I am taking notes as I am a correspondent of a paper’ ” (Roxana Lewis Dabney, Annals of the Dabney Family in Fayal, 3 vols. Boston, n.d., 3:1292). Clemens was not the only one with a notebook, of course, and certainly not the only newspaper correspondent. “Everybody taking notes,” he recorded in his notebook, “cabin looks like a reporters congress” (p. 344). He was, however, the most professional and the most thorough of the various correspondents. Before leaving New York he had heard from John J. Murphy of the Alta, “Your only instructions are that you will continue to write at such times and from such places as you deem proper, and in the same style that heretofore secured you the favor of the readers of the Alta California” ( MTB , p. 310). In his Autobiographical Dictations Clemens would recall that he contracted to write fifty letters at twenty dollars per letter, an extension of his original agreement made before leaving California ( MTA , 1:243).

Clemens also arranged to correspond with two eastern newspapers. He agreed to write for the New York Tribune, which, as he told John McComb, had a circulation of 200,000. He wrote Will Bowen on June 7 that he planned to write “two letters a month” for that paper “till we reach Egypt, and then I have to write oftener” ( MTLBowen , p. 16). He eventually completed only seven letters to the Tribune and, as he told his family on November 20, felt “ashamed to go to the Tribune office almost—they have treated me so well & I have not written them a third of the letters I promised” ( MTB us, p. 95). Clemens also agreed to write several letters (to appear unsigned) for the rival New York Herald, and three brief letters were actually published. Significantly, however, he declined to continue his contributions to the New York Weekly Review. “Like all other papers that pay one splendidly,” he told his family on June 1, “it circulates among stupid people and the canaille” ( MTL , p. 126). He was striking out for the larger audiences of New York, and he was willing to make sacrifices for more sophisticated ones.

Novelty was the attraction of Fayal. Clemens took notes on local customs and sights, later marshaling “a paragraph of dry facts” for the Tribune because “the Azores must be very little known in America” ( TIA , p. 16). And he wrote the Alta enthusiastically about an excursion into the hills and valleys of the island: “There was that rare thing, novelty, about it; it was a fresh, new, exhilarating sensation, this donkey riding, and worth a hundred worn and threadbare home pleasures” ( TIA , p. 8). When the Quaker City left the Azores on June 23 bound for Gibraltar, the ship encountered six days of stormy passage. Evidently not yet completely at odds with the religious faction, Clemens led the day's devotions on June 24. But for the remainder of the time he smoked and played dominoes, unable to play “horse-billiards” on the stormy deck. Captain Duncan found little to enter in the log: “Nothing of special interest” happened on June 26, and “Nothing of interest” marked the next day.

On June 29 they arrived at Gibraltar, but their first European port seems to have held only mild interest for Clemens. After touring the town, he told his Alta readers that one might “easily understand that a crowd like ours, made up from fifteen or sixteen States of the Union, found enough to stare at in this shifting panorama of fashion,” but the implication remains that he himself was not impressed ( TIA , pp. 22–23). They toured the military installations and some archaeological sites, and Clemens wrote to his family on June 30 that he was “clear worn out with riding and climbing in and over and around this monstrous rock and its fortifications” ( MTL , p. 129). He pondered traveling through Spain to Paris with Moses S. Beach and others, but through indecision was excluded from that party when it sailed for Cadiz.

If he was disappointed in missing that adventure, his reaction seems to have been merely a stronger resolve to do something even more exciting. “Now as to Tangiers there shall be no pulling & hauling—we will go. I shall answer no questions, & not listen to any d—d fears, surmises, or anything else,” he wrote in the notebook (p. 351). It was, in fact, a daring and somewhat dangerous trip, but with the Quaker City delayed at Gibraltar for coaling and boiler work, there was just enough time to sail across the strait to Morocco and visit the second oldest city on the itinerary. On Sunday morning, June 30, Clemens set out with six fellow passengers—Major James Barry, Dr. Jackson, Dan Slote, Frederick Greer, Colonel Foster, and Colonel Denny—guided by an English merchant named Redman. The rest of the passengers went to church.

As the notebook and his newspaper letters testify, Clemens found the city entirely and excitingly strange. “This is jolly!” he exploded in his Alta letter.

This is altogether the infernalest place I have ever come across yet. Let those who went up through Spain make much of it—these dominions of the Emperor of Morocco suit me well enough. We have had enough of Spain at Gibraltar for the present. Tangier is the spot we have been longing for all the time. Everywhere else one finds foreign-looking things and foreign-looking people, but always with things and people intermixed that we were familiar with before, and so the novelty of the situation lost a deal of its force. We wanted something thoroughly and uncompromisingly foreign . . . nothing to remind us of any other people or any other land under the sun. And lo! in Tangier we have found it. ( TIA , pp. 25–26)

They visited the American consul resident in the city, Jesse H. McMath, who was apparently glad to entertain these Americans with gossip about consular history and information on local customs and practices. Engaging a guide, Sadi Mohammed Lamarty, the party toured the city on their first day, and spent part of the second on a brief, uneasy ride outside its walls. They narrowly escaped Moorish wrath when Clemens prevented Major Barry from heedlessly entering a mosque, forbidden by custom to “Christian dogs.” Clemens took voluminous notes on local history and legend, filling nearly one-third of the notebook. These notes furnished him more than enough material for two letters to the Alta, which overflowed with chaotic details of their new experiences. In fact, concluding the second of these letters, Clemens threw up his hands: “I find I cannot write up my notes, and so I will stop” ( TIA , p. 35).

Returning to the ship late on July 1, he wrote his family in the same vein of enthusiasm: “I would not give this experience for all the balance of the trip combined. This is the infernalest hive of infernally costumed barbarians I have ever come across yet” ( MTL , p. 130), a comment that records the height of his excitement rather than any contempt for Tangier. “It seems like profanation to laugh, and jest, and bandy the frivolous chat of our day amid its hoary relics” ( TIA , p. 27). Unlike the disappointment that he would feel in Turkey and Palestine, his excitement here exceeded even his expectations:

Here is not the slightest thing that ever we have seen save in pictures—and we always mistrusted the pictures before. We cannot any more. The pictures used to seem lies—they seemed too wierd and fanciful for reality. But behold, they were not wild enough—they were not fanciful enough—they have not told half the story. Tangier is a foreign land if ever there was one. And the true spirit of it can never be found in any book save the Arabian Nights. ( TIA , p. 26)

Nevertheless, his earlier restlessness persisted, and the brevity of the visit to Africa undoubtedly contributed to its success. Clemens himself concluded that “Tangier is full of interest for one day, but after that it is a weary prison” ( TIA , p. 35). The returning adventurers brought Moorish tobacco pipes, Moroccan dates, and “full, flowing, picturesque Moorish costumes . . . purchased in the bazaars of Tangier” ( MTL , p. 131). And during the last shipboard dance the “Tangier 3” (Clemens, Slote, and Dr. Jackson or Frederick Greer) cavorted in their oriental finery. That midnight Clemens remarked on the end of the adventure. “After all this racing, & bustling & rollicking excitement in Africa” he wrote in the notebook, “it seems good to get back to the old ship once more. It is so like home. After all our weary time, we shall sleep peacefully to-night” (pp. 367–368). The quest for novelty would resume the next day, however, as the ship steamed toward Marseilles, where Clemens planned to disembark and take the train to Paris.

The passenger list derives ultimately from that given by Paine in Mark Twain: A Biography, pp. 1609–1610, but uses and sometimes corrects the fuller list given by Dewey Ganzel in Mark Twain Abroad: The Cruise of the “Quaker City” (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1968), pp. 319–322. Passengers who figure prominently in The Innocents Abroad have been marked with asterisks. When Mark Twain referred to a passenger by a nickname, it follows the formal name in quotation marks.

Passengers

Allen, Anthony Bezenet. New York, N.Y.

* Andrews, Dr. Edward (“The Oracle”). Albany, N.Y.

Barry, Major James G. Saint Louis, Mo.

*Beach, Moses Sperry. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Beach, Miss Emeline. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Beckwith, Thomas S. Cleveland, Ohio

Bell, Mr. and Mrs. R. A. H. Portsmouth, Ohio

*Birch, Dr. George Bright. Hannibal, Mo.

Bond, Mr. and Mrs. John W. Saint Paul, Minn.

Bond, Miss Ada. Saint Paul, Minn.

Bond, Miss Mary E. Plaquemine, La.

Brown, Dr. M. Circleville, Ohio

Brown, Miss Kate L. Circleville, Ohio

Brynam, John. Philadelphia, Pa.

*Bullard, Rev. Henry. Wayland, Mass.

Chadeyne, Miss Carrie D. Jersey City, N.J.

*Church, William F. Cincinnati, Ohio

*Clemens, Samuel Langhorne (“Mark Twain”). San Francisco, Calif.

Crane, Dr. Albert. New Orleans, La.

Crane, Albert Jr. New Orleans, La.

Crocker, Mr. and Mrs. Timothy D. Cleveland, Ohio

*Cutter, Bloodgood Haviland (“Poet Lariat”). Little Neck, Long Island, N.Y.

Davis, Joshua William. New York, N.Y.

Decan, Nathan. Long Island, N.Y.

*Denny, Col. William R. (“The Colonel”). Winchester, Va.

Dimon, Mr. and Mrs. Fred. Norwalk, Conn.

Duncan, Mrs. Charles C. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Duncan, George. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Duncan, Henry E. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Elliott, P. A. Columbus, Ohio

Fairbanks, Mary Mason (Mrs. Abel W.). Cleveland, Ohio

Foster, Col. J. Heron. Pittsburgh, Pa.

*Gibson, Dr. and Mrs. William. Jamestown, Pa.

Green, Mrs. J. O. Washington, D.C.

Greenwood, John Jr. New York, N.Y.

*Greer, Frederick H. (“Blucher”). Boston, Mass.

Griswold, Mr. and Mrs. Stephen M. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Grubb, Gen. B. B. Burlington, N.J.

Haldeman, Hon. Jacob Samils. Harrisburg, Pa.

Heiss, Goddard. Philadelphia, Pa.

Hoel, Capt. W. R. Cincinnati, Ohio

Hutchinson, Rev. E. Carter. Saint Louis, Mo.

Hyde, Hon. James K. Hydeville, Vt.

Isham, John G. Cincinnati, Ohio

*Jackson, Dr. Abraham Reeves (“The Doctor”). Stroudsburg, Pa.

James, William E. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Jenkins, Frederick P. Boston, Mass.

Kinney, Col. Peter. Portsmouth, Ohio

Krauss, George W. Harrisburg, Pa.

*Langdon, Charles Jervis (possibly the “Interrogation Point”). Elmira, N.Y.

Larrowe, Miss Nina. San Francisco, Calif.

*Leary, Daniel D. New York, N.Y.

Lee, Mrs. S. G. Brooklyn, N.Y.

Lockwood, Mr. and Mrs. E. K. Norwalk, Conn.

May, J. M. Janesville, Wis.

McDonald, Louis. Bristol, England

Moody, Capt. Lucius. Canton, N.Y.

*Moulton, Julius (“Moult”). Saint Louis, Mo.

Nelson, Arba. Alton, Ill.

Nesbit, Dr. Benjamin B. Louisville, Ky.

Nesbit, Thomas B. Fulton, Mo.

Newell, Miss Julia. Janesville, Wis.

Otis, William Augustus. Cleveland, Ohio

Paine, C. C. Pa.

Park, Rev. A. L. Boston, Mass.

Park, Miss. Boston, Mass.

Parsons, Samuel B. New York, N.Y.

Payne, Dr. and Mrs. James H. Boston, Mass.

Quereau, Rev. George W. Aurora, Ill.

Sanford, S. N. Cleveland, Ohio

Serfaty, M. A. Gibraltar

Severance, Solon Long. Cleveland, Ohio

Severance, Emily C. (Mrs. Solon L.). Cleveland, Ohio

Sexton, Nicholas. New York, N.Y.

*Slote, Daniel (“Dan”). New York, N.Y.

*Van Nostrand, John A. (“Jack”). Greenville, N.J.

Willets, Samuel. Islip, Long Island, N.Y.

Ship's Officers

Duncan, Charles C. Captain

Bursley, Ira. Sailing Master and Executive Officer

Jones, William. Second Officer

Burdick, Benjamin. Steward

Harris, John. Chief Engineer

Vail, Robert. Purser

Pratt, William A. Quartermaster

Notebook 8 now contains 198 pages, 71 of them blank. At least two leaves have been cut out and are missing, and it is possible that other leaves no longer traceable are also missing. The notebook is identical in design and format to Notebook 7, but its binding has been repaired recently. Most entries are in pencil; occasional entries and several use marks are in brown ink. Clemens probably used brown ink when he returned to his notes while writing the Alta letters. All occurrences of brown ink, including use marks, which Clemens made by striking through an entry, are reported in Details of Inscription. Paine made use marks in black pencil throughout.

Clemens did not fill the notebook consecutively from first page to last, so the left-to-right sequence of pages does not necessarily correspond to the chronological sequence of entries. Two main sequences can nevertheless be distinguished. Beginning on the ninth page, Clemens filled most of twenty-one consecutive pages with his notes on New York City (from mid-May through the first week of June 1867). He then turned the notebook end-for-end and wrote his notes on the Quaker City voyage in a second sequence covering most of 114 pages (from June 8 through early July 1867). From time to time during the trip he turned to blank pages selected at random to enter lists that he wished to keep distinct from his day-to-day entries.

The chronological sequence of entries, when it can be determined, has been preferred to the physical sequence. Although entries on flyleaves and endpapers (and two entries on the back cover) are printed in the order in which they appear in the notebook, the two main sequences and the various lists are printed in chronological order. All deviations from physical sequence are reported in Details of Inscription and described in the notes.

Bibliography of Related Materials

The following books are those most immediately relevant to a study of Clemens' Quaker City notebooks (8–10) and The Innocents Abroad. They provide the letters he constructed from the notebooks, an independent history of the voyage, and a distinguished analysis of the evolution of the book. A number of more obscure texts (cited in the notes) have, however, been used to annotate these notebooks: Captain Duncan's log in the Patten Free Library of Bath, Maine, quoted with the permission of John E. Duncan; travel letters written by two of Clemens' friends, Mrs. Fairbanks and Mrs. Severance; and a variety of travel letters by several other passengers, graciously made available by Leon T. Dickinson.

Ganzel, Dewey. Mark Twain Abroad: The Cruise of the “Quaker City.” Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1968.

McKeithan, D. M. Traveling with the Innocents Abroad. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1958.

Smith, Henry Nash. “Pilgrims and Sinners.” In Mark Twain: The Development of a Writer. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, Belknap Press, 1962.

Walker, Franklin, and Dane, G. Ezra, eds. Mark Twain's Travels with Mr. Brown. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1940.

sequence 1: on the Quaker City tour, possibly in Tangier, ca. 30 June–1 July 1867

[MS: N8_outside front cover]

blank

[MS: N8_front endpaper]
[MTP: N&J1_314]

Qel Quel est votre
nom & how the h—l do
you spell it.

Brown letter to French
girl (or landlord)

Il ne se corrigera jamais.

Tangier 3

sequence 2: New York City, mid-May 1967

[MS: N8_front flyleaf recto]

Mark Twain—

Correspondent San F. “Alta”

Westminster Hotel, N.Y.

[MTP: N&J1_315]

Edwin Lee Brown

Lecture Man,

Chicago.

Upton—Place de la Bourse No. 12.

[MS: N8_front flyleaf verso]

blank verso

[MTP: N&J1_368]
[MS: N8_leaf_001r]

Gave away Mrs.
Larrowe's room.—
favor. Promised her a single room

[MTP: N&J1_369]

Gave her a seat
not at his table.

Hypocr about James
at his table.

Promised take her
under especial charge,
yet tacitly refused to
take her ashore in his
boat.

Changed Andrews
& Crane's rooms.

Took especial
charge of Miss Char-
deyne Chardeyne —yet is per-
mitting permitting her to make
a questionable——

[MS: N8_leaf_001v]

Took Miss Newell
under charge, & yet
has never made paid
her any attention.

Promised her a
single room.

six blank pages follow leaf 001v (002r–004v)

[MS: N8_leaf_005r]

Billy Fall—

[MTP: N&J1_316]

Johnny Skae & Santiago

Show you my sore
finger

Hudson street—in 8th
ave car, see shab old
fash—scoop bonnets &
long gored dresses—
—University Place, see
new fash & all manner
elegance

Blind Asylum 3d. 34
33 & 34th & 9th Ave.

[MS: N8_leaf_005v]

✗ Gathersing punkins

[MTP: N&J1_317]

192 ✗ Pile of Cats

Libertines in German hostel
& Bro & Sister

Squirrels on a spree

✗ Dogs looking out window

✗ Cows wading a branch sunset

✗ Bunches grapes, ap-
ples apples , strawberries, glass
wine, &c on table— wo-
men women take most kindly
to these.

✗ Naked libels marked
Eve.

✗ Other naked wo-
men women —marked
Spring Sum-
mer Summer &c—all
[MS: N8_leaf_006r] family likeness &
all short out of shirts

Some botches & some
that are not

T D—n the water-color
pictures—they never
look like perfect
imitations of na-
ture nature & the finest
of them are coarse

No historical pic-
tures pictures whatever save
Lincolns Entry
into Richmond
& a poor warrior
portrait or so

Sea-views & woodland
& mountain-views
& storms all beau-
tiful beautiful .

[MS: N8_leaf_006v]
[MTP: N&J1_318]

✗ G Fille swgg on
gate.

That island in tro-
pical tropical lake surrounded
by trees j impenetrable jun-
gle jungle of trees & all woven
together in an impenetra-
ble impenetrable web of vines & flowers
—water still & glassy &
glowing with pictures of
the shores—two lonely
birds winging their
way across the lake—
—the woods forest on the
further side dim with
& with a gossamer mist—
dead solitude & loveliness

Architecture of Academy

[MS: N8_leaf_007r]

Sculpture—fine

Eve with 3 apples

Pillar of fire—good

Sunset on the sea—
—streak of gold across
misty Indian sum-
mery summery blue waves

Greely & Jeff.

[MTP: N&J1_319]

Greeley Bail for
Max.

four blank pages follow 007r (007v–009r

[MS: N8_leaf_009v]

Wednesday—

60 boys & 60 girls
—3 tables each.

2 tables for tchs

124 pupills

Brooms

Mattrass

Bead

Knitting

Need No 6—could
thread No 10—with 3d
finger & with mouth.

Talk & knit & gos-
sip gossip & get very noisy
at times—especialy
at dinner—

27 knitters

[MS: N8_leaf_010r]

Naturally enough,
most of them stoop
painfully—many have
drawn features—&
are al all are rather homely,
several desperately so.

Young lady read
9th Ch II Corinthinans

—

though—whereof

lo.—

behold

[MTP: N&J1_320]

Maps

Billy Fall

[MS: N8_leaf_010v]

Billy Fall

Santiago.

French letter from
Brown to the land-
lord landlord .

Instrucns to Passngrs

Passport.

No. Passengers. 81

[MTP: N&J1_321]

Bret Harte.

Racing—

[MS: N8_leaf_011r]

Webb's quarrel
with Perkins

Beirstadts Domes
of the Yo Semite.

Butman's Log & red

Apochraphal Bible.

R K=P ◊ —a man
who says his hoary
smart things & tells
his keen anecdoststes
& enjoys your applause
—but forgets & does
the same old things
[MS: N8_leaf_011v] on you some other
time. A man
made up of old
things, always re-
peating repeating them &
not often origina-
ting originating anything new.

Johnston—My
God have I been
———my
grandmother!

[MTP: N&J1_322]

Jack Simmons
Captured by
Indians

[MS: N8_leaf_012r]

Correspe for
several papers.

Abuse each.

Must learn swear
in 17 languages.

Looks like he is
waiting for a va-
cancy vacancy in the Trinity.

Aprés vous, Mr.

Return-ball
—assassinated
—made fortune
—rage year ago,
—puzzles 2 month
—toys on string now

[MS: N8_leaf_012v]
[MTP: N&J1_323]

Hates her be-
cause because she owned
a lap-dog.

Artemus Ward's
body—

Bridget Durgan

Even the Young
Men's Christian
&c wouldnt do
more than pray
politely for a
stranger.

French virtue
in woman: Only
one lover & don't
steal.

[MS: N8_leaf_013r]

N.Y. Dirt Sweep-
ing Sweeping cart.

Music of nightly ( mid-
night midnight fire-alarm
bells)—nobody cares

Bayard's motto—
Sans peur et sans
—culottes.

[MTP: N&J1_324]

union down

They have interrupted interfered
our sacerdotal performes exercises

I thought they'd stopped
your grog.

The Cooper Indians

Man wanted seat
by Gen. Sherman

[MS: N8_leaf_013v]

Bring everything
but gin—on ship.

The man that didn't
want to travel on
Sunday.

Library will be
furnished by Young
Men's Chr. Assn

[MTP: N&J1_325]

Capt Behm—or
Wakeman—Stop the
boat you old pot-
b pot-b —sonofab—

W— Stop her John,
—stop her—some
old friend of mine
wants come aboard

[MS: N8_leaf_014r]

Dr. J. H. Pottinger

7th & Olive

Fine Strawberris.

Tragedy Albany

Bro of Senator Cole.

Quick & comple re-
port report .

Herld house telegraph.

Cor. fr Tribune

Would not SAY served right, but
think it, nevertheless any way.

Webb & his books & mag.
articles.

The China.

[MTP: N&J1_326]

Racing.

[MS: N8_leaf_014v]

708.

August Brentano, a pop-
eyed pop-eyed , squat, thick-set
Jew with a deformed
right hand & the general
expression of a success-
ful successful convict. Got—
shelves on both of a
24 × 7 foot room & a
counter down middle

Nef look at 'a Herld
got sum else to do but work
at Herald.

Son of a b— has
made money & it
has made him

Summer is here

Mint Juleps.

[MS: N8_leaf_015r]

Get Telemaque

Dumas

Balzac.

Orpheus
Divorced

[MS: N8_leaf_015v]

blank verso, followed by four blank pages

[MS: N8_leaf_018r]

What a good thing
Adam had—when
he said a good thing
he knew nobody
had said it before.

Oh for the igno-
rance ignorance & the confiding-
ness confidingness of ignorance
that could enable
a man to kneel
at the Sepulchre
& look at the rift
in the rock, & the socket
of the cross & the
g tomb of Adam &
feel & know & never
question that they
were genuine.

sequence 3: on the Quaker City tour, 8 June–ca. 2 July 1867

Clemens used the remainder of the notebook from back to front; the text below begins with the back cover; rectos and versos are determined by the use of the book from the back to front

[MS: N8_outside back cover]

679 Broad st

Room 66

New York to Azores Islands—Gibraltar—Tangier,
Africa.

[MS: N8_back endpaper]
[MTP: N&J1_327]

Paris Exposition.

Kohler & Frohling
—Wines—at Paris Ex-
position Exposition —Californian
—Perkins' Stern & Co
request.

drawing; see facsimile

3800 miles by longitude
from N.Y. to Gibraltar.

2,726 miles by longitude
from N.Y. to the Azores.

1,160 miles by longitude
from the Azores to Gibraltar.

[MS: N8_back flyleaf recto]
[MTP: N&J1_328]

I spoke or was spking.

Irving's Spain
Moors.

Je parlais

Il parlait

Nous parlions

Vous parliez

Il parlaient

I shall or will speak.

	Alta	Tribune
Fayal	1	1
Gibral	1	0
Tangier	2	0

Je parlerai

Tu parleras,

Il parlera,

Nous parlerons,

Vous parlerez,

Ils parleront

I should or would speak.

Je parlerais,

Tu parlerais,

Il parlerait,

Nous parlerions,

Vous parleriez

Ils parleraient.

[MS: N8_back flyleaf verso]

blank, followed by two blank pages (leaves 001r and 001v)

[MS: N8_leaf_002r]
[MTP: N&J1_329]

Regulations

Steamship Quaker City.

A strict observance of the fol-
lowing following Regulations is requested:

Passengers are requested to di-
vest divest themselves of their boots or
shoes before occupying their berths,
& to remove the wash before
going to breakfast.

Passengers may eat at every
meal specified in the rules, & may
take all reasonable advantages,
& eat all they fairly can, but
　　　 & extraordinary strat-
agems stratagems are barred. No swap-
ping swapping false teeth allowed.

[MS: N8_leaf_002v]

blank verso

[MS: N8_leaf_003r]

Holy Land Pleas-
ure Pleasure Excursion

Steamer Quaker City

Capt C C Duncan

Left New York
at 2 PM, June 8, /67

Rough weather
—anchored within
the harbor to lay
all night.

Br. said now this is River
Jordan—where is that
old Original faro
bank.

[MS: N8_leaf_003v]

The Frenchy-looking
woman with a dog—small
mongrel black & tan brute
with long sharp ears that
stick up like a donkey's
& give
[MTP: N&J1_330] him an exceed-
ingly exceedingly wild & excited ex-
pression expression , even in his
mildest moods. He has
unbounded influence
over his mistress (a
married woman of 30,
with dark skin, incli-
ned inclined to hairiness, & a
general suggestion
all about her of ig-
norance ignorance coarseness
& vulgarity,); he jumps
into her lap, & repeats
it over & over again ;
& his damned spirit
will not down till
she takes him to her
bosom, wraps her shawl
[MS: N8_leaf_004r] about him & talks
affectionate baby talk
to him. When he is
skirmishing about the
cabin, she follows him
anxiously about &
interrupts his enter-
prises enterprises , because they
are always of an im-
proper improper & mischivous
tendency,) & mean-
while meanwhile she keeps up
an interminable
biography of him to
the passengers, em-
bellished embellished with an-
ecdotes anecdotes illustrative
of his general disposition
& general style.
& with stories of some
of his most remark-
able remarkable performances.
The dog is noisy, &
in the way, & his re-
[MS: N8_leaf_004v] lations with his mis-
tress mistress are too so intimate
as to be disgusting
to the passengers. He may———

The long-legged,
simple, green, wide-
mouthed, horse-laugh-
ing horse-laughing young fellow,
who once made a
sea-voyage to for-
tress fortress Monroe in the
Oceanica, & now
knows it all. He
quotes eternally from
his experiences upon
that voyage, “calls”
goes every anec-
dote anecdote one better, by
a reminiscence
from that voyage,
& I am satisfied
[MS: N8_leaf_005r] that we shall never
hear the last of that
very voyage. He
will harp on it
from here to Pal-
estine Palestine & back again.
He wears a monstrous
compass slung to
his watch guard,
& consults it from
time to time, keeps
a wary eye on the
binnacle compass
to see that it does
not vary from his
& so endanger the ship
—& he is loud, & af-
fects affects the an extrav-
agant extravagant devil-may-
care boisterousness
& freedom which
he imagines to be
characteristic of the
[MS: N8_leaf_005v] man of the world.
He says the most
witless things & then
laughs uproariously
at them—& he
has a vile notion
that everything ev-
erybody everybody else says
is meant for a
witticism, & so
laughs loudly out
when very often the
speaker had spoken
seriously, or even
had meant to say
something full of
pathos. But this
fellow
[MTP: N&J1_331] don't know.
He laughs dreadfuly
at everything & swears
its good, d—d good,
by George. I wish
he would f———

[MS: N8_leaf_006r]

The innocent young
man—who is good,
accommodating,—
pleasant, & well mean-
ing meaning , but fearfull green
& as fearfully slow.
Began conversation
in the smoking room
with the remark that
well, he believed the
papers stated that
Max had been cap-
tured captured at last—

And got prompt-
ly promptly snubbed by some-
body somebody who said the
news was a week
old. Then he exposed
the fact that he had
gone to sea without
a passport.—

Then he wished
to know how long
[MS: N8_leaf_006v] sea-sickness lasted.
He is on the other ex-
treme extreme from Legs—
don't know anything
at all. le

Came confi-
dentially confidentially to me in
a private place &
seemed almost
bursting with an
idea—a new & dan-
gerous dangerous guest to have
about his premises.
He said 　 Said:

If you had
got a panorama—
any kind of a pan-
orama panorama —one of
them old ones would
do—why by gracious
you could pay your
way in the ship—
[MS: N8_leaf_007r] any old panorama,
you know—but I
don't think likely
you could with only
just a lecture,— be-
cause because them I’tal-
ians I’talians & Arabs &
—wouldn't go much
maybe, except for
the novelty, because
they wouldn't under-
stand understand a d—d you
know. But if you
had an old pano-
rama panorama , I should
think likly you'd
fetch them.

Sunday Morning
—June 9—Still lying
at anchor in N.Y.
harbor—rained all
[MS: N8_leaf_007v] night & all morning
like the devil—
some sea on— la-
dy lady had to leave
church in the cabin
—sea-sick.

[MTP: N&J1_332]

Rev. Mr. Bullard
preached from
II Cor. 7 & 8th verses
about something.

Everybody ranged
up & down sides of
main upper after cabin
—Capt Duncan's
little son played the
organ—

Tableau—in
midst of sermon
Capt Duncan
rushed madly out
with one of those d—d
dogs but didn't throw
him overboard.

[MS: N8_leaf_008r]

Several days at sea
—four, I think—the beau-
tiful beautiful weather we started with
still continues—sunny
days, sea just rippled by
the summer breeze, & mag-
nificent magnificent moonlight
nights that seduce every
one out of the cabins, &
make the promenade
deck bring every body
on deck, even the sea-
sick sea-sick ones.

I am But—there

But speaking of
sea in sea-sickness,
there certainly are more
sea-sick people in the
ship than there ought to
be. I am more than
ever satisfied, now, that
we ought to have put to
sea in the storm of
[MS: N8_leaf_008v] Saturday. 　 The ship
is strong, & could have
weathered it easily, but
& everybody would have
had a fearful four-
hours' siege of sea-
sickness sea-sickness & then been
over it & done with it.

But alas! we sailed
with a bright sky &
an untroubled ocean,
& so most of the pas-
sengers passengers remain half-
sick & half miserable,
day after day, & they
will never be otherwise
until we touch land again.

I have got the bly-
ak bly-ak —& there's 8 doc-
tors doctors on board—spring
chicken

[MS: N8_leaf_009r]

Diaries.

Most of the passengers
being unaccustomed to
voyaging, are diligently
keeping diaries

[MTP: N&J1_333]

Of a lady.

First Day—The ship
rolls & pitches, & Oh, I am
so sick!

Second Day—We met
an emigrant ship to-day,
full of Irish people.—
From Ireland, doubtless.
Our captain got on the
paddle-box & shouted
Ship Wo-haw! or some-
thing something like that, & the other
captain shouted back
through a horn & said
he wa had been out
thirty days. Then we
started away, & gave the
emigrants 3 cheers &
[MS: N8_leaf_009v] waved our handkfs,
& they gave us three
cheers also, but did
not wave their handkfs,
but we thought nothing
of it, because, as they had
been out 30 days their
handkfs were all
dirty, likely. Still, I
am so seasick.

Third Day—Mrs.
S., who has got her face
so sunburned since we
left N.Y, made a co-
nundrum conundrum on the pro-
menade promenade deck last
night. She said, “Why
is my face like a bird
that is just about to fly?”
Ans—“Because both are
to soar.” Ah, me, I am
so sick!

Fourth Day—I
am tired being at sea, &
[MS: N8_leaf_010r] tired keeping journal,
& very tired of being sea-
sick sea-sick . I do wonder
where those Azores Isl-
ands Islands h are hidden away
in this boundless ex-
panse expanse of heaving water?
I do so want to see the
land & the green trees
again.

Fifth Day— Chick-
en Chicken soup for dinner, but
my heart is not in
chicken soup. I care
not for poetry, or for
things to eat, or for dress.
I have taken off my
hoops & put away my
waterfall, & all I take
an interest in is being
squalmish & getting to
shore again. It is fun-
ny funny , but somehow I don't
seem to care how I look.

[MS: N8_leaf_010v]

Sixth Day—At last
I am over it! I am
not a bit sick any more.
And how different ev-
erything everything looks to-day.
Why the sea is beauti-
ful beautiful —actually beautiful!
& the soft south wind
is balmy & gentle, & I
almost imagine it has
lost its drea nauseous
odor of salt. I am
like a new person.
I take an interest in
everything, now. Ah,
yonder is that scrimp-
nosed little doll trying
to make herself so a-
greeable agreeable to Mr——. I
will just happen along
there as if I were not
noticing, & see if I don't
spoil your schemes, Miss?

this page followed by four blank pages (two leaves)

[MS: N8_leaf_013r]
[MTP: N&J1_334]

Bloodgood H. Cutter.

He is fifty years old,
& small of his age. He
dresses in homespun,
& is a simple-minded,
honest, old-fashioned
farmer, with a strange
proclivity for writing
rhymes. He writes them
on all possible subjects,
& gets them printed on
slips of paper, with his
portrait at the head.
These he will give to any
man that comes along,
whether he has anything
against him or not.
He has already written
interminable poems
on “The Good Ship Qua-
ker Quaker City;” & an “Ode to
the Ocean;” & “ Re-
collections Recollections of the Pleas-
ant Pleasant Time on Deck
[MS: N8_leaf_013v] Last night”—which
Pleasant Time consisted
in his reciting some
75 stanzas of his po-
etry poetry to a large party of
the passengers convened
on the upper deck.

Here is a specimen
of his work.

[MS: N8_leaf_014r]

Dan said to him, in
a private conversation:

“It must be a great
happiness to you to be able
to sit down at the close of
the day & put its events
all down in rhymes & po-
etry poetry like Byron & Shaks-
peare Shakspeare & those fellows.”

“Oh, yes, it is—it is.
There is no pleasure like
it in the world.”

“Yes—& I should think
that when a man was
gifted in that way, more
would be expected of him
than from common
people—from people
who ain't poets. You'd
be expected, you know,
to keep that talent going
at all reasonable times,
& never lose an oppor-
tunity opportunity . It's a duty you
owe to your countrymen
[MS: N8_leaf_014v] & your race, you know.”

“I know. I ap-
preciate appreciate it. I do keep
it agoing. Why bless
your soul, many & many
a time when everybody
else is asleep, you'll find
me
[MTP: N&J1_335] writing poetry.—
And when I feel it coming
on, there's no let up to me.”

“That's it! that's it!
Often, no doubt, when
you're talking to people,
or looking at anything,
or eating dinner, it
comes on you, & every
thought that clatters
through your head
fetches up a with a
rhyme at the end of it
—pure, honest, natural
born poetry—ain't it so?”

“Bless your soul,
yes. Many's the time I've
[MS: N8_leaf_015r] had to leave my dinner
& many's the time I've
had to get up in the
night when it came
on me. At such
times as that, I can't
any more talk without
rhyming than you
could put fire to
powder & it not go off.
Why, bless me, this ship
may go to the bottom
any moment & drown
us all—but what
of that?—

Whether we're on the sea
or the land,

We've all got to go at the
word of command—

“Hey?—how's that?”

[MS: N8_leaf_015v]

blank verso

[MS: N8_leaf_016r]

Thursday, June 13,
1867—On board Steamer
Quaker City at sea,
12 M—lat. 40, long
62—560 miles from
New York, ¼ of the
way to the Azores—
in last just 3 days
out—in last 24 hours
made 205 miles.
Will make more in
next 24, because the
wind is fair & we are
under sail & steam
both, & are burning
30 tons of coal a
day & fast lightening
up the ship.

Friday—Shipped a sea
through the open dead-light that
damaged cigars, books, &c—comes
of being careless when room is on
weather side of the ship.

[MS: N8_leaf_016v]

Friday, June 14—Mrs.
C. C. Duncan's 46th
birth-day festival in the
after-cabin.

[MTP: N&J1_336]

Saturday, 15—Trial
in the Circuit Court of
the Commonwealth of
Quaker City, of Robert
Vail, Purser, charged
with stealing an over-
coat overcoat belonging to
Sam Clemens. Judge
Crane presiding.
Rev. Henry Bullard
Clerk, Dan Slote
Sheriff, Moses S.
Beach, Crier of the
Court, Dr. Jackson,
Surgeon of the Ship,
Counsel for the State,
Sam Clemens & Capt
Duncan Counsel
[MS: N8_leaf_017r] for the defendant.—
Six Jurymen. Eight
witnesses examined.
Speeches made.
Verdict Ali Alibi
proven—also in-
sanity insanity of def't. Ver-
dict Verdict guilty, with re-
commendation recommendation
to mercy. Sentence
inflicted on junior
counsel in absence
of c the criminal— sol-
itary solitary confinement
on straight whisky
in room 10 for
one hour & may
God have mercy
on your soul.

[MS: N8_leaf_017v]

Curiosity— Genu-
ine Genuine Nubian chancre.

Brown's letter
to French girl.

Capt Wakeman
& the nigger hung.

Evasive answer

Physician sands
nearly run out.

Thought they shut
off your forncation

[MS: N8_leaf_018r]

The surest sign of
quack is picture of some
ignorant stupid ass in

[MTP: N&J1_337] horrible woodcut on
a coarse lying, bragging
handbill to be treasured
by clowns & used in water
closets by the rest of
the world.

Monday 17 June—
Blackfish, whales &
an occasional shark
& lots of Portuguese
men-of-war in
sight

Brown distressed
for fear the latter would
attack the ship,.—jelly.
—long tails & sting—
burn,—reef in a storm
—turn over in sun,
wet sail & come up
again—long tails
[MS: N8_leaf_018v] hanging down—saw
fleet of them.

These stay only between 35 & 45⁰
—story of chartless ship telling where she
was by seeing nautilli.

Caught a fly-
ing flying fish—it flew
50 yards & came
aboard—can't fly
after wind & sun
dry their wings.

June 17—Lat. 40,
long. 43 W—½ way be-
tween between America & Por-
tugal Portugal & away south
of Cape Farewell,
Greenland. Large
school of spouting black-
fish blackfish .—make the water white
with their spouting spray.

[MS: N8_leaf_019r]

June 19—Within 136
miles of the Azores
at noon.

Dr & S get sea-sick
at table—go out & throw
up & return for more.

Singular—Find
the full moon exactly in
same spot every night
at 8 oclock—for past
9 or 10 nights—because
we move as fast as
she does, & approach
15 to 20 minutes closer
to sunrise every 24
hours, sailing di-
rectly directly east as we
have been.

Started the a Social
Club last night to
discuss routes of
[MS: N8_leaf_019v] travel, & chose
Judge Haldeman
for President,—
Rev Mr Carew

[MTP: N&J1_338] for Secretary,
& MrosesS. Beach,
Dr Jackson & my-
self myself as Executive
Committee.

Dr Andrew
& Capt Duncan
enlightened the Club
concerning the
Azores & Gibraltar.

After which
Mr James gave
Stereopticon views
—promised us pic-
tures pictures of places we
are going to visit,
& his first was a
[MS: N8_leaf_020r] view of Greenwood
Cemetery!

Prayer Meet-
ings Meetings every night.

Sea so rough
to-day we cant
play horse- bil-
iards billiards for'ard.

Gr-r-{????}

The Quaker City
Mirror is not is-
sued issued very regularly.

[MTP: N&J1_339]

“Would be pity if
we came in sight of
the islands in the night
when so dark I c we
[MS: N8_leaf_020v] can't see them”—

Dan Slote said—

“See 'em in the morning”—

June 19—Up at
4 AM to see Island
of Corvo (small)—
passed half way a-
round around its large neigh-
bor neighbor Flores—very
cold & windy—spray
continually coming
aboard in broad
sheets & drenching
the passengers.—
Vineyards, gorges,
ridges (sharp, vel-
vety velvety .) topped with
seeming castles
& ramparts—all
green in bright
spots & handsome.

[MS: N8_leaf_021r]

(Constantinople)

Got so far
east now that when
it is next week here
it is day before yes-
terday yesterday in San F.

Brown wondered
that his watch was
so out of order that
it lost 20 minutes
every day—kept
slowing her down
till she hardly moved
at all, but all to
no purpose.

[MTP: N&J1_340]

Stupid remarks
& ? from ? every
now & then—
make him a
character.

Also occasional
rhymes from the poet.

[MS: N8_leaf_021v]

June 19—Heavy
gale down among
Azores—threw Capt D.
across cabin from
dinner table, swept
dishes away p dozen,
& fetched away iron
water cooler which
smashed seat just va-
cated vacated by Mr. Church.

Most folks in
bed sick—tremendous
sea running all af-
ternoon afternoon —fierce gale
—shall I never see
lightning & thunder
any more?

Fellow in France
3 weeks—came
back & couldn't
understand his
mother—
[MS: N8_leaf_022r] So used to French
money—how
much is 50c

75 cts!

Blodgett—Been
so used to be-
ing being called Blo-
jay Blojay in Paris

Brown

Like to see a
man eat enough
but I do hate to
see a man sit down
& eat a dinner
& go out & heave
it overboard &
come back & eat
& another like a dog

[MS: N8_leaf_022v]
[MTP: N&J1_341]

F Azores.

June 21, Daylight
—Arrived at the port
of Horta, island of
Fayal—island of
Pico, where the fruits
are, is opposite, & looks
beautiful with its green
slopes & snow-white
houses.

Azores under
Portuguese sway
—old fort with six-
pounders six-pounders over
250 yrs old.

Mr. Dabney,
Jr., is American
Consul. He & his
br His father was
here. The family
been here 60 yrs.

His 2 sons
married daughters
[MS: N8_leaf_023r] of Webster of Park-
man Parkman murder no-
toriety notoriety . One of
these ladies said
to Haldeman, “Well,
I suppose you
know who we are!”

Consul's & Sil-
ver’s Silver's are superb
grounds, with all
tropical & other
plants in them—
15 acres in former
—more in latter.

[MTP: N&J1_342]

Full chaffinch
& canaries.

Most superb
russ pavements
& whitewashed
lava walls &
stone bridges I
ever saw & so
clean & neat.—
Will last forever.
[MS: N8_leaf_023v] So will the houses,
which are of lava
plastered with mud
& painted white.

These snowy
houses thickly
clustered at the
base & scattered
upon the sides
of the checker-
boarded hills &
havlf buried in
luxuriant shrub-
bery shrubbery , make of
this one of the
loveliest towns
I ever saw.

Population
of Horta, 10,000
—nearly all Por-
tuguese Portuguese . Pop.
of Fayal 25 to
30,000.

[MS: N8_leaf_024r]

Rode jackass
on mattrass with
sawbuck for a
saddle, 10 miles
among the hills
ravines & beau-
tiful beautiful scenery of
the suburbs, with
a troupe of bare-
footed barefooted noisy young
patched & ragged
devils following
with gads. Paid
30 cents an hour
for the jacks.

sekki-yo!

Everything cal-
culated calculated by reis (rays)
—takes about a
million of them
to make six bits.

Two hundred A thousand reis
make one dollar.

[MS: N8_leaf_024v]

Brown hav-
ing having heard that prices
were very moderate
here, opened his heart
& ordered dinner on
for 8 of us. Here is
the bill. It knocked
him senseless:

Dinner for 8 at @ $ 3,000, r,	24 000
C Wine, a 10 bot at 1,200	12,000
Cigars	2,000
	38,000

[MTP: N&J1_343]

All the hills are
cultivated to their
very summits & (4 to
600 feet) & look like
checker-boards—

Export oranges
to England from
San Miguel, but
that is about all.
Used to export wine,
but haven't been
[MS: N8_leaf_025r] able to make any
for 15 years.

They raise corn
here, mostly.

six lines left blank

Cathedral Church
(Jesuit) Colle nearly
200 yrs. old—the
great altar a mass
of gaudy gilt work

Ball support-
ing supporting ivory cross is
bound with wood
which they claim
is from the true
cross.

Walls of the chan-
cel chancel are faced with su-
[MS: N8_leaf_025v] perb porcelain—
figures life-size
—pictures are
varied, animated &
exceedingly well
executed. Blue.

My ears roar
yet with the infer-
nal infernal din ni of those
chattering, jabber-
ing jabbering portugese
vagrants.

2 papers pub-
lished published in the islands.

Ladies gathered
plenty of flowers,
feather wreaths,
ornaments in
pith of fig tree,
&c &c.

Wages for la-
[MS: N8_leaf_026r] borers 24 to 26 cents
a day—mechanics
twice as much.

Couple Custom
House officers re-
mained remained on ship all
day to
[MTP: N&J1_344] examine
all bundles carried
ashore by g passen-
gers passengers —but both
stayed on one
side, while most
of the people went
off on the other.

Sentinels & s carry
Sharpe's rifles &
soldiers wear
blue roundabout
& white linen pants
& have their boots
blacked— con-
sidering considering that

[MS: N8_leaf_026v]

common sol-
diers soldiers best dressed people in Fayal
(Portℓ )—& con-
sidering considering that
most of the low
class have no
boots to black
& no clothes to
speak of, imagine
that to be a com-
mon common soldier must
be a position of
high dignity.

Place is full of
shoe shops
yet everybody
go barefoot.

Woman waiting at corner for the wind to change

Rain flats the hood right out—is heavy but
coarse texture.

Women wear a blue cloak with a hood like a covered wagon & are the infernalest homeliest tribe on earth, perhaps. They

Have to lay to in a
head wind.

[MS: N8_leaf_027r]

say they are not
virtuous—but
I cannot see
how the devil
they can possibly
be otherwise—for
fornication with
such cattle would
come under the
head of the crime
without a name.

Everybody taking
notes—cabin looks
like a reporters congress.

[MTP: N&J1_345]

Commandant
at fort was aston-
ished astonished to see Lisbon
dates 2 weeks ear-
lier earlier —thought telegraph failed
10 yrs ago.

Donkey & family
[MS: N8_leaf_027v] —donkey with pallet
of thistles—folks
with bedstead—no
bedstead for the poor
donkey.

Man asked if the
States were joined to-
gether together again.

Fayal, June 22.

Mules & family live
all together in one small
room—fire in centre—no
escape for smoke save thro'
small passages built in walls.
Hardly a chimney in the city.

Saw no graveyards. They
say they do not reverence their
dead very highly, & only a few
graves are well cared for.

[MS: N8_leaf_028r]

Wheat is threshed by oxen
in a hard room in the old
scriptural way—“Ye shall
not muzzle the ox that tread-
eth treadeth out the grain.” Wheat
is worth 70 cents a bushel,
but flour $12 a barrel
because of thiseir slow methods
of threshing & grinding.

Corn is ground in
private houses with a
stone mortar &

In a windmill—
10 bushels corn a day—
man scrapes it thro'
trough from hopper—
Yankee would make
a shaking table. —The
base of mill is stone
up 10 ft—then wooden
house so arranged
as to turn around
& shift sail when wind
shifts. Near by have
a mule mill to go when
[MS: N8_leaf_028v] the wind don't blow.—

Their plow is a
wooden board shod
with iron.

Their harrow is
drawn by hand & has
teeth as small as a
finger.

[MTP: N&J1_346]

Their wagon cart is a
basket hauled by a cow
& the axle & the wooden slab of
a wheel both turn.

Civil Governor & a
military governor both
—latter takes precedence.

Country Volcanic.

Baalam's ass.

[MS: N8_leaf_029r]

The party started at
10 A.M. Dan was on his
ass the last time I saw
him. At this time Mr.
Foster was following,
& Mr. Haldeman came
next after Foster—Mr.
Foster being close to
Dan's ass, & his own
ass being very near
to Mr. Haldeman's
ass. After this Capt.
Bursley joined the
party with his ass,
& all went well till
on turning a corner
of the road Capt.
Bursley's a most
frightful & unexpected
noise issued from
Capt Bursley's ass,
[MS: N8_leaf_029v] which for a moment
threw the party into
confusion, & at the
same time the a
portughee boy stuck
a nail in M to Mr. Fos-
ter’s Foster's ass & he f ran
—ran against
Mr Dan, who fell
—fell on his ass,
& then, like so many
bricks they all came
down—each & every
one of them—& each
& every one of them
fell on his ass.

Muleteers sang

We hang Jaf Deevez on
　　 sowly abbla tree

Glory halleluiah—and his
soul go

[MS: N8_leaf_030r]

Left the Azores
Sunday noon, June 22.

[MTP: N&J1_348]

Madame, these atten-
tions attentions are very flat-
tering flattering to me, but—

Daughters of brother of
Duke of Alva.

Extract from a
Sandwich Islander's
Journal:

“Had a Christian
for Breakfast this
morning.”

[MS: N8_leaf_030v]

diagonal line, possibly the beginning of an abandoned drawing (see leaf 31r)

[MS: N8_leaf_031r]

drawing

[MS: N8_leaf_031v]

blank verso

[MS: N8_leaf_032r]

Eyes as blue as the
sea (the deep sea.)

June 24—Had Ball
No. 2 on promenade
deck, under lanterns
(no awning but heaven)
but ship pitched so
& dew kept deck so
slippery, was little
more fun than com
fort comfort about it.

June 26—Met
a great clipper ship un-
der under a perfect cloud of
canvas.

[MS: N8_leaf_032v]

Friday June — Sat
up all night playing
dominoes in the smoking
room with the purser
& saw the sun rise
—woke up Dan & the
Dr. & called every-
body everybody else to see it.—
Don't feel f very bright.

Must be 150 miles
from Gibraltar yet,
this morning &
shall hardly have
coal enough to
make the port.

[MS: N8_leaf_033r]

From New York to the
Azores the sea was of
a dull, dead,
[MTP: N&J1_349] mouse-
colored blue—but
from thence till
now (within 150 miles
of Gibraltar—we
are just south of Cape
St Vincent, Portugal,
& Cape Blanco, Mo-
rocco Morocco ,) it has been of
a deep, splendid, lus-
trous lustrous purple-blue.)

Saturday, June 28.
Sailing along through
the Straits, with Africa
(bold, sand-spotted hills,)
& Spain (a good deal like
it) on either hand, 13 miles
apart. Water green, not
blue—splendid morning
spring-like—

[MS: N8_leaf_033v]

Saw the Moorish
town of Tarifa Tangier
in Morocco, sitting on
a hill—it

Further along a
tall bold hill in Spain Africa
which must be one
of the Pillars of Her-
cules Hercules .

Passed close to the
little heavily-walled
town of Tarifa, Spain,
houses with pink-tiled
roof—

The great Spanish
hills beyond have rather
barren looking sides
& grey granite tops.

Old round stone
towers here & there
on the sea-walls—
lighthouses or
watch towers

[MS: N8_leaf_034r]

Little town in
lap of a valley nest-
ling nestling in shrubbery.

Splendid breeze
& the white-winged
ships speeding down
the strait in the
morning look beau-
tiful beautiful .

Dr Andrews at
breakfast said

“Did th Which side
was the Pillars of
Hercules on?

Both.

Some thinks dif-
ferent different —Gibbon—
(the old fool had been
smelling in a guide
book & was trying
to play it for old infor-
mation information been fes-
[MS: N8_leaf_034v] tering in his brain.

[MTP: N&J1_340]

He said “I sup-
pose suppose them old an-
cients ancients really believed
the goddess Hercu-
les Hercules lived there some
time or other.”

But while we stood
admiring the cloud-
capped peaks of Af-
rica Africa & its lowlands
robed in misty gloom,
“clouds & darkness are over it”—Scripture, & spoken of this particular
locality. a more magnifi-
cent magnificent sight burst
upon us—a lordly
ship with every rag
of canvas set &
sweeping down upon
us like a bird.

All at once a
thrill went through
the whole ship &
[MS: N8_leaf_035r] every hat with one
impulse every hat
& every hanker-
chief hankerchief waere swung
aloft—she had
flung the stars &
stripes to the breeze!
She dipped her colors
gracefully by way of
salute, & we answer
ed answered —& so long as the
gallant ship was in
sight every eye
followed her & every
sen wafted a God
speed after her.

drawing

[MS: N8_leaf_035v]

In a few mo-
ments moments an a lonely
& enormous mass
of rock, standing
seemingly in the
centre of the s wide
strait & washed on
sides by the o sea ap-
parently apparently , swung
grandly into view,
& it required no
guide book to tell
us it was famous
g Gibraltar, that type
of stability. It stood
a 4 years siege.

Gibraltar—

Going through Spain
or not going through
Spain? What is the

[MTP: N&J1_351] time to Paris?—60
hours ?. Can we
visit the Alhambra—
[MS: N8_leaf_036r] Seville, Valladolid,
the Encin
and 50 other places?
D—d glad when I
knew it was too late
& we couldn't go.

Now as to Tan-
giers Tangiers there shall be no
pulling & hauling
—we will go. I shall
answer no questions,
& not listen to any
d—d fears, surmises,
or anything else.

Blucher in Gibraltar
blowing about being
American to British
officers—to hotel
keepers—to com-
mandants commandants —to
band-masters, whores,
chambermaids,
bootblacks—making
[MS: N8_leaf_036v] an ass of himself
generally.

Buying gloves
of the seductive
Spanish wench
in the main street
who said I knew
how to put a glove
on, & few did—(when
I was tearing the
worthless thing to
pieces with my awk-
wardness awkwardness ) & taking
this fearful sarcasm
for a compliment
I paid the price (50
cents) for a torn
pair of Spanish
kid gloves.

[MTP: N&J1_352]

Blucher in the —

[MS: N8_leaf_037r]

King's Arms &
Club House Hotels
—keep no register
& never know
who is in the house
—send me to find my
friends instead of
a servant. Land-
lord Landlord lied about
the Tangier boat.

Brown Dan told to
gather all manner
of statistics, re-
ports reports that brandy
is 8 cents a drink,
& cigars 3-pence.

More barber-shops
here than shoe-shops
in Fayal.

Many beautiful
English & Spanish
girls.

[MS: N8_leaf_037v]

Beach & ½ doz.
others went through
Spain.

Cave of Genesta- some-
thing something in Europa Point
(Rock of Gibraltar)
find Roman implements
showing Rome once
held the rock—also, bones
of mastodons & fossils
of many animals that
have always existed
in Africa but never
in Spain—there are
apes on Gibraltar now
(saw one) & Ape Hill
on the African Coast
facing Gibraltar is
now f (One of the
Pillars of Hercules)
is now full of them
—yet there are none
[MS: N8_leaf_038r] in Spain. These
lead to the belief that
the narrow channel
(13 miles) between the
pillars was once dry
land & the 300 low
place where the neutral
ground is was open
sea.

[MTP: N&J1_353]

The low place is
very low & flat & is
only ¼ mile widebetween the
Atlantic & Mediter-
anean Mediterranean & the “neutral
ground” between the blue
& white posts is about
300 miles yards wide.

Tangier, Morocco.

Oran

Riffians from the Riff
coast up by Algiers ria —very
barbarous tribe—driven
down from the mountains
by starvation—wheat
[MS: N8_leaf_038v] crop failed—using chick-
en chicken feed to make bread—
small feed.

Emperor don't al-
low allow anything to be exported
& so they don't raise any
more wheat than neces-
sary necessary to live. Only 3,000 head cattle allowed

Only consuls &c can
get horses out by paying
£20 duty.

Cape Spartel light

Tarifa “

same

Charts all say current
always sets eastward—&
so vessels from Mediteranean lay at Gibraltar
weeks & make no attempt
to beat down through Straits
with adverse winds & get
into Atlantic—whereas
the current sets at stated
seasons west & east
both—get to Tarifa & take

flood tide goes to westward &
ebb-t to eastward

flood tide is from ape's hill to
Trafalgar Bay & takes
vessels out.

[MS: N8_leaf_039r]

first of tide & follow
Spanish coast apiece,
& current will carry
them through in spite
of the wind.

[MTP: N&J1_354]

Moroccans don't dare
to get rich—Emperor get
up some charge against
him & confiscate.

Nigger Consul from
Morrocco to Gibraltar—
was a slave to former
consul—bought his free-
dom freedom —was left all his
property—had become
so smart & well posted
in Gib affairs the Em-
peror Emperor gave him his mas-
ter's master's place & he has held
it for years. Kissed one
old Moorish dignitary
(who is very rich.

[MS: N8_leaf_039v]

The shore towers are
Spanish—Moroccans
used to slip in with
boats & carry off all
the pretty women. Eng-
land England stopped it.

In Morocco, for theft,
of cattle take off right hand & left
foot. Two 2—one died
(cut round the joint & break
it off—hang up facing the
market) the other got well
by re-amputation by
English surgeon.

Two little steamers in Gib
& Tangier trade—will be an-
other another soon.

Murder in Morroco
—behead.

Jew executed for help-
ing helping to poison a (Sp.) consul—
shot—3 of them.
[MS: N8_leaf_040r] Put him at a distance like a
target & bad marksmen
practised on him a good
while.

Note the magnificently
rich & soft bluish misty
tint that veils Gib.

[MTP: N&J1_355]

Officers of garrison
go to Tangier to shoot
—wild boar, partrige,
rabbits, hares, ducks.

Splendid dates exported
from Morocco (Barbary
Coast)—that place in
San F is well named
Barbary Coast.

Fez.—Capital.

Lady Hill visited Fez 6 w.
ago—only European lady
ever been there—no pro-
tection protection outside Tangier walls
—must take escort.

[MS: N8_leaf_040v]

Brass decimal coin-
age coinage —silver real— cop-
per copper coin 31 oz to dollar.

When a poor Moor
sees one of those scarce
silvers dollars, asks
permission to kiss it
—been rich.

Money changers in
the streets.

Gov. of Tangier (used to) have
salary £5 or £6 a month but
keeps 25 or 30 wives—
snaked the cash that passed
through his hands. — Amer-
ican American political sagacity.

Emperor has no system
of taxation but levies on
individuals—made
the old Moor by imprison-
[MS: N8_leaf_041r] ment confess where his
money was hidden

Plow with crooked piece
timber & oxen. Sps same.

[MTP: N&J1_356]

Tread out grain in Spain
with oxen—probably same
in Africa Barbary.

Moorish farmers live
in thatched hovels—
burn off brush & scat-
ter scatter a little grain.

Apparently no large
timber in Barbary.

6 yrs ago Spaniards
had long occupied Souta
abreast Gib, above Ape
Hill—Spaniard built house
outside lines—Moor's
destroyed it 32 tim twice
[MS: N8_leaf_041v] Spaniard rebuilt &
flagged—down again
—war—only few miles
to Tetuan, yet took
Sp. many months to
get there—didn't take
the place, but extended
their Souta possessions
a little (low neck of
land connects Souta
with Ape Hill,) & got
($10,000,000?) indemnity
—Spanish, Moorish &
English customs offi-
cers officers of customs were
placed at every Moor
port down coast to
take strict account
of duties, & Emperor
takes ½ & Spain ½
—first Morrocco ever
had a knew what her
income was— Gov-
erners Governors used to collect
[MS: N8_leaf_042r] what they pleased &
account to Emperor
what they pleased.

Indemnity is
about paid off now,
& Morocco only coun-
try country on earth without
national debt.

Small out of the
way places the only
ones you can learn
anything about.

Immense No
of Moors leave Tan-
gier Tangier every year on pilgrimage to Mecca.

Can't go unless
worth $100—Jew dodge
—lend $100 & get it back
before ship sails—charge
for loan.

[MS: N8_leaf_042v]
[MTP: N&J1_357]

Man is entitled Hadji
after made Pilgrimage
—not so entitled before.

Never wash on
entire pilgrimage—
w go through motions
with stones.

Moorish wedding

Jewish wedding—
woman sits with eyes
closed for many hours.

Koran allows 4
wives & many concu-
bines concubines —

In interior Jews
marry several wives.

Cords of Jews in Tan-
gier Tangier & Morocco.

[MS: N8_leaf_043r]

Stately splendid old
dignified Moorish dig-
nitary dignitary with moustache
& beard & beads—tall
—yellowish but nearly
white—great peaked
long sweeping blue
hood & robe—& white
turban of many folds.

They wear crimson
sash—voluminous— a-
round around waist—robe
—& bare legs—some
other Arab robes are
white & some blue
striped.—some red
skull caps.

[MTP: N&J1_358]

Trafalgar—we saw
where Nelson fought
—see it from Tangier
on fair day—sailed
by it in Quaker City.

[MS: N8_leaf_043v]

Tangier snow-white
town—scattered yellow
houses—in little valley
& on low hill-sides.

Took no baggage
to Tangier but 5
bottles & 75 cigars.

Everything in these
countries stone— du-
rable durable —substantial
—to last forever—
strikes you evrywhere.

Moorish little pipes
& tobacco.

A narrow court
leading to the Ameri-
can American Consulate Gen-
eral General in Tangiers
called Washington
Street.

[MS: N8_leaf_044r]

Snatched Maj. Barry
out of the Moorish
Mosque—would have
been sacrilege—
couldn't pray in there
for a long time till
it was purified—
would have got a
shoe over his head
—years ago would
have got a knife
—they are very fa-
natical fanatical .

English officer
stepped in & the
Moors chased him
out & up street with
shoes.

Frenchman went
through—

Portuguese clock-
[MS: N8_leaf_044v] mender—Moors
couldn't mend it—
concluded

[MTP: N&J1_359]

“You know we
permit donkeys
when building—
we'll let the Portu-
guese Portuguese c take off shoes
& go in & come out
as a donkey.”

Brown wanted
to go in as a donkey.

Consul General
McMeth at Tangier
has nothing to do.—
But keeps his resi-
dence residence here because
it is the most civil-
ized civilized port in Barbary
—God help the other
ports.

Tangier only re-
markable remarkable for its
[MS: N8_leaf_045r] fashions—not its
civilization.

Tangier is an old
Roman town—old
Roman ruin.

Can't get into in-
side inside of Moorish
house unless women
are withdrawn—
then see little.

The ancient
Moorish Castle is a
little town within a
wall—& is the resi-
dence residence of the Bashaw
—the office is pretty
much hereditary
—he is both military
& civil. Has every
power but life &
death. He is absolute.

[MS: N8_leaf_045v]

Tabebe El Tabeeb—
Arabic for “The Doctor.”
Inflicted them on the
Dr Jackson.

The well-dressed
Moors—the learned &
doctors in the law—
go on mules but sel-
dom seldom show them-
selves themselves . More well-
dressed Moors in
Gib than here.

Go to Mosque about
1 oclock on Friday ( Sun-
day Sunday ) & say their prayers
an hour or two—
bathe, & then go to
work again—that
is all of their Sabbath.

People in remote
places ring in terribly
[MS: N8_leaf_046r] old jokes, as original,
imaging that the hear-
er hearer has never heard
them before, & are
surprised at the
faint laugh the
ancient jest creates.

Naval squadron
in Mediterranean go
to Marseilles, to Gib.
&c, but seldom or
never touch at an African port,— the
very places where
they ought to appear
often to awe the Moors
& give them respect
for America—can't
overawe France
at Marseilles.

Goldsborough
gone with whole
squadron to Cadiz
[MS: N8_leaf_046v] to deliver up to
Farragut.

Moors went to
Gib & came back
full of wonder
at the smoothing
-iron Miantonomoh
—staid 10 days—
didn't come to Tan-
gier Tangier where all the
Moorish officers
wanted to see her.

They have heard
of the great Ameri-
can American navy, but when
the little Frolic &
Swatara come, they
say why are these
they great ships?

Consul says
for God's sake, they
judge by what they
see—no newspapers
[MS: N8_leaf_047r] —& don't send any
small vessels.

Ticonderoga
came & astonished
the Moors talked about it a month with great
guns & great ship
—sentayed 2 days—sent
by request of McMeth.

When big iron
ship came to Gib,
tried to get her here
—Goldsborough
wouldn't permit it.

Mr. Redman says
Spanish are gaining
great influence here
by showing big ships
& burning powder.
Spain consi hated but
considered greatest
& most powerful
nation on earth—
just by show.

Consul ratifies
engineer's statements.
[MS: N8_leaf_047v] If Spanish vice-
consul gets into trou-
ble trouble with McMeth's vice-
consul—Spaniard
appeals to his Min-
ister Minister & up goes the
case against Amer-
ica America .

Spanish Min-
ister Minister makes a demand
on Emperor of Mo-
rocco Morocco ,
[MTP: N&J1_361] instantly com-
plied complied with—other
nations worry through
months of red tape
but accomplish
nothing.

Six mi

Before the war
Spain was despised
—feared now.

Indemnity $20,-
000,000 $20,000,000 .

Spain took Te-
tuan Tetuan but gave it up.

[MS: N8_leaf_048r]

Semmes was at
Gibraltar, but on Mc-
Meth's demand, Empe-
ror Emperor of Morocco or-
dered ordered Moors to fire
on Rebels if they came
here.

All American
consuls have abso-
lute absolute control over
all Americans here,
& Moors have none
over either consul
or citizen.

Tunstall & Lt. Meyers of
Alabama captured
by American consul
at Tangier. Tunstall
expatriated & Meyers
imprisoned—done
in America.—sent
home by Commodore.

[MTP: N&J1_362]
[MS: N8_leaf_048v]

Any crime so
heinous law pro-
vides provides no adequate
punishment make
him Consul to
Tangiers

Roman fountain
2200 yrs old.

Outside of wall, re-
mains remains of old Roman
buildings—

Town been one
of the oldest towns in
world except Damascus
—ancient history dates
its about time Hercules
founded Cadiz—say
4,000 years ago.

Been in possession
of Phenicians, Cartha-
[MS: N8_leaf_049r] genians, English, Moors, &c.

5 or 6 miles out,
600 ft high, complete
bed of oysters.

Animals remain
from sea up to 5 or
600 ft every inch.

Romans had this
2,600 years ago, blank
blank & blank & when they invaded
Gaul & Britain at blank
AD, drew their grain
from here.

The great battle
which determined the
religious status of
this country was
fought not many
leagues from here
in 1160 yrs ago, between
Mahommedans &
Christians & latter
lost.

[MS: N8_leaf_049v]

Moorish women
cover their faces
with their coarse
white robes—to cover
their inhuman
d—d ugliness,
no doubt.

Small donkeys

Bazaar—niggers
—Arabs, &c.

Emperor don't
know how many
wives he has got
—thinks it is 500.
—take turns—Arabic

Walls of Bashaw
—all damaged.

The original nigger

[MS: N8_leaf_050r]

Many of the blacks
are slaves o to the
Moors—when can
read
[MTP: N&J1_363] first chapter of
Koran (contains
creed) can no longer
be slaves—would
have been well
to adopt educational
test for nigger vote
in America.

Connection of
Master with female
slave frees her.

Population of
Tangier is about
5,000 Jews, 14,000
Moors, Arabs &
Bedouins, & 1,000
Christians.

[MS: N8_leaf_050v]

Mt. Washington, named
so by owner of country
house there in 1793—
back of town.

Saw remains of
old Roman bridge
at mouth of Fishing
river (single arch) where
Roman dock-yard
was—built their ships
& took grain in them
to Britain 50 yrs
before Christ.

Hercules is the
representative of a
character—that man
landed at Cadiz wh
his lion skin on his
shoulders & his club
in his hand & founded
it—came here on
also (called Tingis, then)
[MS: N8_leaf_051r] & conquered Anitus,
King of this Country,
who lived also at the
garden of Hesperides
70 miles down coast
from here—savages
here, then—Hercules
met & killed him in these
streets. These were
savages, who lived in
little huts, & ate only
the natural fruits of
the land. Canaanites
came here when driven
out by Joshua, & set up
a pillar on wh they
inscribed:

We are the Canaan-
ites Canaanites , driven out of the
Holy Land by the Jewish
robber Joshua”—
been seen by Roman
historians within 2,000
yrs. in these streets.

[MS: N8_leaf_051v]

Cape Spartel, near
here—Cave of Her-
cules Hercules —full of inscrip-
tions inscriptions —Here took ref-
uge refuge her in that cave.

[MTP: N&J1_364]

Garden of Hes-
perides Hesperides (golden fruit—
oranges) was on an
island in Elyxis— nei-
ther neither island nor garden
remain.

Five days from
here ancient city of
which nothing is now
known—statues.
there yet.

Gun-carriage re-
mains remains of our contact with
the Moors—Emperor declared war.

[MS: N8_leaf_052r]

Streets 6 to 12 feet
wide—no vehicles

When meet 5
Moors, 2 are Haemed
—2 Mohaemmed &
1 Selim.

Game of checkers
in ancient Treasury
of Moorish Empe-
ror's Emperor's Palace—turbans
& hoods & a negro
with shaven head &
a top-knot—lost
their temper.

Leper boy—with
great white splotches
on his black body &
covered with sores.

Tell Moor Jews
by noses.

[MS: N8_leaf_052v]

Fellow with shoes
off salaaming & pray-
ing praying in chapel near
Treasury.

Moors hospitable
—run out & offer hunt-
ers hunters milk & kooskysoo
—can't go in house.

Moorish woman
who knows she is
handsome will glance
around, & no Moor in
sight will uncon-
ciously unconsciously uncover
the face.).

Moor won't look
woman in face, nor
she him.

[MTP: N&J1_365]

Marriage is con-
tracted contracted by parents—man
never sees her before
[MS: N8_leaf_053r] he is married—next
morning, if she is sick
or unchaste he can
send her home—after
reasonable time if
she don't breed, dis-
charge discharge her—don't
take her for better
for worse.

Saw an animal whose
father was a horse
& his mother a jennet.

Moors reverence
cats & will not kill
them—during the war,
& during the Spanish
occupancy of Tetuan
they ate up all the
cats & the Moors
will never for-
give forgive them.

[MS: N8_leaf_053v]

Bell & nigger water
carriers.

Prompter in
Gibraltar theatre
—talked louder than
actors—much
hissing.

Consul McMath◊
no society—keep plenty
games—first week
his wife & her sister
cried all time.

the following question was written upside down at the bottom of the page; it is almost certainly related to the “Questions for Debate” section two pages later on leaf 54v

Which is most desirable
—the single or the married
state?

[MS: N8_leaf_054r]

Brown—Hadji
—went to Mecca—
busted himself—$10
on deck to Alex-
andria Alexandria —been a
busted community
ever since.

Mrs. McMath's
little 4-yr old Katie,
born in Tangier,—
fluently speaks Span-
ish Spanish & Arabic, but
knows no English
—when very earnest,
talks broken English
& uses figurative lan-
guage language of the Arabs,
& says by the beard of
this page continues on leaf 55r below

[MS: N8_leaf_054v]

this page is inscribed upside down in relation to the other pages in this sequence; it is not continuous with the preceding or following pages, except for the question at the bottom of leaf 53v

Questions for Debate.

Which is the most powerful
motive—Duty or Ambition?

Who is Is or is not Capt. Dun-
can Duncan responsible for the
head winds?

How can the passengers best
see Spain consistently with
the ship's route as laid down
in the original programme?

Is a tail absolutely necessary
to the comfort & convenience
of a dog?—& if so would
not a multiplicity of tails
augment the dog's comfort
& convenience by a con-
stantly constantly increasing ratio
until his abillity to carry
them was exhausted?

[MS: N8_leaf_055r]
this page resumes the entry on leaf 54r above
my father—by the
good health of my
mama, &c.

Rode through country
—

Moors unsociable
devils—never smile
or bow—look “ Chris-
tian Christian dog.”

[MTP: N&J1_366]

J. C. L. Wadsworth, San
Francisco—at Tangier,
Morocco, April 27/67.

Our Arab splendid
looking Arab friend
who has so faithfully
served us ever since
we got to Tangier
is “Mohammed La-
marty Lamarty .”

[MS: N8_leaf_055v]

Yours Truly

signature (see facsimile)

The Signature of Sahib Sadi
Mohammed Lamarty.

During revolutions,
Moorish or Spanish
couriers, collecting
on letters, swallow
the gold, but marau-
ders marauders physic them &
collect.

Rode outside the
Tangier walls, but
&did not enjoy it much
on account of a no-
[MS: N8_leaf_056r] tice in hotel warning
travelers that it is very
dangerous to get out
of sight of town with-
out without guard of soldiers
on account of the
Riffians.

[MTP: N&J1_367]

Basket of copper,
& bronze coin at
money-changers
—½ peck—worth
seven dollars.

Found a nation who
refused to take a
drink— wonder-
ful wonderful —wonderful
—will wonders
never cease!

Got back to Quaker City at Gibraltar,
Monday evening, Junely 1, 1867.

[MS: N8_leaf_056v]

The Queen's Chair—
occupied during the
long siege under Elliott
—repeat—repeat—repeat
—Brown. “Oh, d—n it,—
I've got enough of that
tiresome old yarn”

Renew provisions
every year—

Big reservoir: 210-
000 210000 bbls—can make
from steam from
sea water.

Left Gibraltar just
as the sun was setting, July
1, 1867. The sunset was
soft & rich & beautiful
beyond description. I
shall never forget what a
dreamy haze hung a-
bout about the silver-striped
[MS: N8_leaf_057r] dome of the African
Pillar—the peak city &
headland of Soudah
& the hills beyond the
neutral ground, & how
the noble precipice
of Gibraltar stood out
with every point &
edge cut sharply a-
gainst against the mellow
sky. Nor how like
a child's toy the full
canvassed ship looked
that sailed in under
the tremendous wall
& was lost to sight in
its shadows.

Beautiful star-
lit night on the Med-
iterranean Mediterranean .

All we left behind
are in snowy Gib-
[MS: N8_leaf_057v] raltar shoes, & our
African party are
gorgeous with yel-
low yellow Moorish slip-
pers slippers .

Midnight, July 1.—
After all this racing,
& bustling & rol-
licking rollicking excitement
in Africa, it seems
good to get back to
the old ship once

[MTP: N&J1_368] more. It is so like
home. After all our
weary time, we shall
sleep peacefully to-
night.

Sleep makes us all
Bashas.—⟦Moorish Pro-
verb Proverb .

“Sleep joins the parted
lovers' hands.”

[MS: N8_leaf_058r]

Hotel Bill at the
Royal Victoria Hotel,
Tangier, Morocco.

Breakfast for	8	$2.00
Ale for	8	8.00
Whisky for	8	8.00
Brandy for	8	8 10.50
Dinner	8	2.50
Jackasses	8	3.25
Guides		2.00
Specimens for	3	32.75

July 2, 18767.

The Mediterranean
this morning is a
paler blue than any
other sea, perhaps, but
the richest & most lus-
trous lustrous & beautiful color
imaginable. 20 ships
in sight all the time.

[MS: N8_leaf_058v]

Tangier Jew wont touch
fire on Saturday—steal
though.

Curious the lord made
these his chosen people.

Editorial Notes

The first four entries were made on the front endpaper at different but un-determined times; the third and fourth are in the brown ink which Clemens probably used to write his Alta letters and which he used intermittently in this notebook.

Clemens referred twice more to Mr. Brown's “French” letters later in this notebook (see pp. 320 and 336), but he did not use the anecdote until he wrote to the Alta from Lake Como in July. In that letter Brown is reported to have written a complaint to his landlord in a barbarous mixture of broken French and American slang: “Brown said he guessed the old man could read the French of it and average the rest” ( TIA , p. 56).

Clemens wrote to his family on 2 July: “We had a ball last night under the awnings of the quarter deck, and the share of it of three of us was masquerade. We had full, flowing, picturesque Moorish costumes which we purchased in the bazaars of Tangier” ( MTL , p. 131). The “Tangier 3” were probably Clemens, Dan Slote, and either Dr. Jackson or Frederick Greer.

On returning to New York from Saint Louis in mid-April 1867 Clemens, who had corresponded for the San Francisco Alta California since December 1866, moved from the Metropolitan Hotel to the more elegant Westminster Hotel, where he lived until the Quaker City departed on 8 June. He scrawled these lines in bold letters diagonally across the front flyleaf.

Brown was former corresponding secretary of the Associated Western Literary Societies and in 1866–1867 was president of the Young Men's Association (also known as the Chicago Library Association). From Naples on 7 August Clemens would write his business agent, Frank Fuller: “Don't make any arrangements about lecturing for me, I have got a better thing in Washington . . . better than lecturing at $50.00 a night for a Literary Society in Chicago and paying my own expenses” (TS in MTP). The job he anticipated as private secretary to Nevada's Senator William M. Stewart soon gave way to the task of writing The Innocents Abroad, and Clemens did eventually lecture to the association on 7 January 1869, six months before the book was published. Clemens wrote this entry lengthwise on the front flyleaf for easy reference.

Mark Twain wrote to the Alta on 19 April that “Mr. M. G. Upton, the Alta Washington correspondent during the last session, sailed for his new post, at Paris, on Tuesday 16 April. You are fortunate in having such an able correspondent at the Exposition” (Alta California, 2 June 1867; omitted from MTTB ). Clemens recorded Upton's Paris address at the bottom of the front flyleaf, possibly intending to make use of it when the Quaker City excursion arrived in Europe.

This and seven subsequent entries, a list of grievances which Clemens formulated against Captain Charles C. Duncan, were possibly written after the excursionists reached Paris on 7 July. They appear on the first leaf of the notebook. Stephen M. Griswold wrote the Brooklyn Eagle that the “Quaker City party arrived at Paris without Captain Duncan, who prefers to stick to the steamer. We found several young ladies, who had been put under the Captain's charge, wandering about Paris on their own hook” (“Notes of European Travel,” 6 August 1867).

Although Mark Twain identifies Billy Fall as “Wm. C. Fall” in his Alta letter dated 17 May 1867, Franklin Walker has suggested that he actually meant William H. H. Fall, “who had operated pack-trains over the Sierra to the Washoe silver mines” and who was well known in San Francisco and Nevada ( MTTB , pp. 168, 290). One month earlier, in his 19 April Alta letter, Mark Twain said that Fall planned to leave New York no later than 21 April “to take a position under Surveyor General Safford, of Nevada” (Alta California, 2 June 1867; omitted from MTTB ). Evidently Fall did not leave as planned, for in his 17 May Alta letter Clemens reported that two days earlier Fall “got into a quarrel with Harry Newton, an old citizen of Esmeralda . . . and they fired several pistol shots at each other” and wounded a bystander. Fall was arrested but soon released when no one appeared to press charges ( MTTB , pp. 168–169, 290). The editors of N&J1 placed this entry after the entries that were actually made on the front flyleaf recto; for this edition, its placement here reflects its appearance in the holograph notebook.

John William Skae, superintendent of the Hale & Norcross mine in 1863 and part-owner of the Virginia City and Gold Hill Water Works, made and then lost two fortunes by speculating on Nevada silver mine stocks. As Edgar Branch has pointed out, Skae “constantly pops up in Mark Twain's imaginary adventures” and “foreshadows later traveling companions” in Clemens' Californian sketches ( LAMT , p. 116). In this instance, however, Clemens merely reminds himself to tell his Alta readers that Skae had arrived in New York, a fact that he mentioned in the 26 May Alta letter where he also discussed the wreck of the Santiago ( MTTB , pp. 229–231, 236). Since Skae arrived in the steamship Ocean Queen on 25 May, the entry can be clearly dated.

According to the New York Times for 23 and 24 May 1867, the steamer Santiago de Cuba ran aground at Absecom Beach, New Jersey, on May 22. Five passengers and two crew members drowned while trying to reach shore. Captain Charles F. W. Behm, who had commanded the steamship San Francisco which brought Clemens from San Juan del Norte, Nicaragua, to New York, was later accused by the Santiago's passengers of gross negligence, intoxication at the time of the accident, and apathy during the landing. Mark Twain's account to the Alta was written on 26 May and was defensive of the captain: “I hope Captain Behm will come out of this difficulty with a clear record, and somehow I cannot help but think he will. All who have sailed with him would be glad to see him found blameless in this matter” ( MTTB , p. 231).

Clemens visited the New York Institute for the Blind on 22 or 23 May. (See notes 22–24.)

This and the following eighteen entries (through that beginning “Sunset on the sea”) were made when Clemens viewed the National Academy of Design's forty-second annual exhibition, which (as he told his Alta readers on May 28) “the art critics have been so diligently abusing . . . for weeks past” ( MTTB , p. 238). Although Mark Twain maintained that he was “not cultivated enough to see the dreadful faults that were so glaring to others' eyes,” he marked this and seven subsequent entries with a marginal X, presumably in order to remember to mention each in a paragraph criticizing their hackneyed subjects. “I suppose,” he concluded, that “I have gone and done the very same thing the art critics do—left unmentioned the works I liked, and mentioned only those I did not like” ( MTTB , pp. 239, 241).

The Academy's Catalogue of the Forty-second Annual Exhibition (New York, 1867) identifies item 192 as “Cat and Kittens” by George B. Butler, Jr.

Clemens singled out “two pictures that suited me” in his Alta letter of May 28: “One of these pictures represented two libertines of quality teasing and jesting with a distressed young peasant girl, while her homely brother, (or sweetheart, may be,) sat by with the signs of a coming row overshadowing his face. The other was racy. In a little nook in a forest, a splendid gray squirrel, brimful of frisky action, had found a basket-covered brandy flask upset, and was sipping the spilled liquor from the ground” ( MTTB , pp. 239, 240). The two paintings were probably “Unpleasant Vicinity” by H. Hiddeman and “The Hunter's Flask” by William Holbrook Beard.

Dennis Malone Carter's “Lincoln's Drive Through Richmond” was dismissed as “execrable” in Mark Twain's Alta letter. He was both surprised and puzzled by the absence of historical paintings “after four or five years of terrible warfare. . . . What do you suppose is the reason?” ( MTTB , p. 241).

Mark Twain mentioned “Girl Swinging on a Gate” in the Alta paragraph criticizing hackneyed subjects. The actual title and artist have not been identified from the Catalogue.

Probably this is “Lagoon, in Nicaragua” by Martin Johnson Heade. Mark Twain used this description in his Alta letter of May 28.

The building which housed the National Academy of Design had been completed in 1865. In his Alta letter Mark Twain ridiculed its “infamous flummery and filagreed gingerbread. . . . The Academy people call their costly stack of architectural deviltry ‘the Moorish style’—as if the atmosphere of antiquity and poetry and romance, that cast a charm around that style in its ancient home beyond the seas, could be reproduced here in the midst of railroads and steamboats, and business rush and clamor” ( MTTB , pp. 241–242).

Mark Twain commented on the number of apples Hiram Powers had given to Eve in this famous marble statue: “I thought our common mother only plucked one apple. When this sculptor makes another Eve he had better get her a basket” ( MTTB , p. 241)

By Lemuel Maynard Wiles. It was not “good” enough to be mentioned in the Alta letter.

Most likely this was “Sunrise on the Seashore” by Sanford Robinson Gifford.

On 13 May 1867 Horace Greeley signed a $100,000 bail bond to end the two-year pretrial imprisonment of Jefferson Davis. Mark Twain's account to the Alta (dated 28 May 1867) acknowledged Greeley's “courage and independence” but criticized his action “because the millions he represented would not have done it” ( MTTB , pp. 242, 243). The following entry suggests ironically that Greeley might be expected to react in the same way to the plight of Emperor Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph of Mexico, who had been deposed on 15 May and who would be executed on 19 June.

This and all subsequent entries through “Maps” (p. 320.1) are the notes Clemens made on his visit to the New York Institute for the Blind. These entries appear after four blank pages and were probably written before Clemens' notes on the exhibition at the National Academy of Design. Mark Twain expanded upon almost all of these rather cryptic notes in the 23 May Alta letter (see MTTB , pp. 214–220).

Clemens reported in his 23 May Alta letter that a “matron gave a girl a needle, in order to show how deftly she could thread it—a girl who was as blind as a brick bat. The needle was a No. 6, the matron said, and I judged that the thread was about No. 14. . . . The girl did it, and quickly. Then the same service was required at the hands of another girl, and she performed it, too, but in an unusual way—she put the end of the needle in her mouth and worked the thread through the eye with her tongue. The matron said either of them could thread a No. 10 needle with great facility” ( MTTB , pp. 217–218).

Clemens described the use of Braille by blind readers: “One of the girls read the ninth chapter of Second Corinthians for me. She spelled the words rapidly with her fingers, and when she came to familiar biblical words like wherefore, therefore, lo, behold, etc., she recognized them with a single nervous touch and went on. She made no mistakes” ( MTTB , p. 219).

After reporting in his 17 May Alta letter that Fall had been put in jail for taking part in a gunfight (see note 7), Clemens observed in his 18 May letter that “Billy Fall is released, a friend of his tells me. Nobody appeared against him” ( MTTB , p. 290). It is not clear why Clemens mentioned Fall again here nor why he wrote the name twice (at the bottom of one manuscript page and at the top of the following page).

This entry is in brown ink. It may have been at this time that Clemens entered the idea for the anecdote on the front endpaper.

Mark Twain indicated in The Innocents Abroad that subsequent to the official “programme” of the excursion “a supplementary programme was issued which set forth that the Plymouth Collection of Hymns would be used on board ship. . . . This supplementary programme also instructed the excursionists to provide themselves with light musical instruments for amusement in the ship; with saddles for Syrian travel; green spectacles and umbrellas; veils for Egypt; and substantial clothing to use in rough pilgrimizing in the Holy Land. Furthermore, it was suggested that although the ship's library would afford a fair amount of reading matter, it would still be well if each passenger would provide himself with a few guide-books, a Bible and some standard works of travel” (chapter 1).

Clemens applied for a passport on 20 May 1867 with Captain Duncan as a witness.

Expectations about the number of passengers that planned to sail with the Quaker City varied from day to day. Duncan originally planned for 110; on 28 May Clemens wrote the Alta that 85 had been booked “and more are to join at Marseilles” ( MTTB , p. 247). The precise number has not been established, but Clemens later gave the number as 65 ( TIA , p. 310).

The last known letter to Harte from Clemens before the excursion departed was written on 1 May 1867, several weeks before the probable date of this entry. Clemens wrote: “The book is out, and is handsome. It is full of damnable errors of grammar and deadly inconsistencies of spelling in the Frog sketch because I was away and did not read the proofs; but be a friend and say nothing about these things. When my hurry is over, I will send you an autograph copy to pisen the children with” ( MTL , p. 124).

In his last Alta letter (6 June) before sailing, Clemens mentioned having seen “the horse ‘Dexter’ trot a race—but then I know but little about horses, and I did not appreciate the exhibition” ( MTTB , p. 277).

Albert Bierstadt had been exhibiting his “Domes of the Great Yo Semite” at 51 West 10th Street for the benefit of the Ladies' Southern Relief Association since 26 April. On the day after the exhibition closed, Clemens wrote his 2 June Alta letter which discussed the painting ( MTTB , pp. 249–251).

Possibly a reference to F. A. Butman, a Californian since 1857, who had recently shown his “Mount Hood, Oregon, View above the Lower Cascades of the Columbia River” at the National Academy of Design's annual exhibit.

On 2 June Mark Twain wrote to the Alta that he had found “an edition of 1621 of the Apochryphal New Testament” in a local New York library. He called it “rather a curious book” and quoted several extracts dealing with the infancy of Christ ( MTTB , pp. 251–254). The passage, condensed and revised from the Alta letter, became part of chapter 51 of The Innocents Abroad.

The identity of the man whose scrawled initials Clemens noted here has not been discovered. The final very irregular S may well be the stenographic symbols for the letters trk, reflecting Clemens' attempt to further obscure the identity of his subject.

A. J. (“Jack”) Simmons was the Speaker of the House in the second Territorial Legislature of Nevada. No evidence has been found linking Simmons and Indians. The obscurity of the entry is compounded by Clemens' careless scrawl. The word by may in fact be a brace connecting “Captured” and “Indians.” Thus it is not clear whether Clemens meant to say that Jack Simmons captured Indians or was captured by them.

In his 5 June Alta letter Clemens described his frustration with New York's eccentric street addresses and resolved that he would leave the city and not return until he had “learned to swear with the utmost fluency in seventeen different languages” ( MTTB , p. 262).

Clemens applied this simile to an unidentified Quaker City passenger. He acknowledged in his 6 June Alta letter that Henry Clapp had previously characterized the pompous Park Avenue minister “Rev. Dr. Samuel Osgood” in this language ( MTTB , p. 276).

Mark Twain worked these notes into an Alta passage on “Street Livelihoods,” which described, among others, the peddling of puzzles made from iron rings and a current “popular rage” for “little painted horses, clowns, chickens, etc., suspended from India-rubber strings. . . . No invention, since the game of croquet, has reached such miraculous triviality” ( MTTB , pp. 254–255). He concluded by moralizing on the fate of the inventor of these toys. The New York Times for 22 May 1867 reported that William T. Skidmore, a former police sergeant, had shot and killed William Bishop Carr with an air gun resembling a cane. “Mr. Carr was the inventor of what is known by boys as the ‘Return Ball,’ which is attached to an India rubber cord, and thrown a considerable distance when it returns to the hand. He made a large amount of money out of the invention, and accumulated considerable property.” Clemens moralized: “Riches will still take wings and fly away, and so also will life—and nothing can assist them in their flight better than an expoliceman” ( MTTB , p. 256). The entry has been struck through in brown ink, probably after Clemens completed the Alta letter dated 2 June 1867.

Although this note was apparently written before the Quaker City departed, it anticipates Clemens' reflections on the lap dog of Mrs. J. O. Green. See pages 329 and 330 of this notebook.

Although Artemus Ward had died on 6 March 1867 and been buried in England, his body was exhumed and shipped to the United States for burial in his native Maine. In the last paragraph of his 2 June (Sunday) Alta letter Clemens reported that the “body of poor Artemus Ward arrived here per steamer to-day, from England, . . . and will be forwarded to the old homestead in Maine on Monday, for final interment” ( MTTB , p. 258). Artemus Ward was buried on 6 June 1867 at Waterford, Maine. The entry has been canceled in brown ink, probably after Mark Twain wrote his Alta letter.

Bridget Durgan was tried for the murder of Mrs. Mary Ellen Coriell and was found guilty on 31 May. She was hanged on 30 August in New Jersey in the presence of several hundred spectators, admitting her guilt only the day before. Clemens first discussed her case in his Alta letter of 26 May (where he spelled the name Dergan), but the present entry was probably used for his 5 June Alta letter, where her name appears with this (Durgan) spelling.

In his 5 June Alta letter Clemens expressed his impatience with the bustle and impersonality of New York, describing the alleged complaint of a fellow visitor to New York that the Young Men's Christian Association prayed for a stranger only because it was “ ‘customary, but didn't wish to be misunderstood as taking any personal interest in the matter’ ” ( MTTB , p. 260).

A corruption of the phrase, sans peur et sans reproche, which traditionally characterized the legendary French hero Pierre Terrail, seigneur de Bayard (1476–1524).

Clemens claimed, in his June 2 Alta letter, to have heard the anecdote which concludes with this phrase from “Capt. Summers.” “Summers anchored his sloop-of-war off one of the Marquesas. . . . The next morning he saw an American flag floating from the beach, union down.” When he inquired the reason from a “grave-looking missionary” he was told that “ ‘the natives have been interrupting our sacerdotal exercises.’ ” Summers was preparing to open fire on the troublemakers until the missionary explained that the natives “had only been breaking up a prayer-meeting,” to which Summers responded: “ ‘Oh, devil take it, man, is that all? I thought you meant that they'd stopped your grog!’ ” ( MTTB , p. 257).

In his 5 June letter to the Alta Mark Twain said that he was hoping to hear that “they have ordered General Connor out to polish off those Indians, but the news never comes. He has shown that he knows how to fight the kind of Indians that God made, but I suppose the humanitarians want somebody to fight the Indians that J. Fenimore Cooper made. There is just where the mistake is. The Cooper Indians are dead—died with their creator. The kind that are left are of altogether a different breed, and cannot be successfully fought with poetry, and sentiment, and soft soap, and magnanimity” ( MTTB , p. 266).

“This fellow had tried to stipulate that his wife should be introduced” to the general's daughter and “that he should be permitted to sit next the General himself! And next, I suppose this flunkey would have waited to hold the General's hat while he washed his teeth” ( MTTB , p. 276).

One of the Quaker City passengers inquired at Captain Duncan's office whether “the excursion would come to a halt on Sundays” ( MTTB , p. 276). The issue of Sabbath-breaking recurred, at least in the fiction of The Innocents Abroad, when certain “pilgrims” insisted on riding rapidly to Damascus in order to avoid traveling on Sunday.

Dr. Abraham R. Jackson's New York Herald account of the Holy Land excursion mentions that the Quaker City's library, “with the exception of the books furnished by the passengers themselves, consisted of a score and a half of the ‘Plymouth Collections’ of hymns and two volumes of Harper's Weekly” (21 November 1867). Mark Twain would write to the Alta that “all our library, almost, was made up of Holy Land, Plymouth Collection and Salvation by Grace!” ( TIA , p. 304).

Clemens' respect and affection for Captain Charles F. W. Behm (see note 9) prompted him to imagine Behm in the role usually assigned to his earlier friend, Captain Ned Wakeman.

The Saint Louis city directory for 1870 lists Dr. John H. Pottenger at 1017 Olive Street. Probably shortly after returning from Saint Louis in mid-April Clemens entered the name in the top margin for future reference.

On 4 June 1867 General George W. Cole shot and killed L. Harris Hiscock, a delegate to the New York Constitutional Convention, in Albany. General Cole alleged (and it was widely believed) that Hiscock had attempted to seduce the general's wife, according to the New York Times for 5 June 1867.

This entry has been added lengthwise in the left margin and probably refers to the general agreement of the newspapers on Hiscock's guilt. See note 52.

Charles Henry Webb published The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County, and Other Sketches in April 1867. In this same period Webb reissued his own popular burlesque, Liffith Lank; or, Lunacy, and published his St. Twel'mo; or, the Cuneiform Cyclopedist of Chattanooga, a travesty of Augusta J. Evans' St. Elmo (1867).

The Pacific Mail Line's new steamship China made a trial run on 4 June 1867 to a point thirty miles out from the New York harbor.

Although August Brentano did not open his Literary Emporium until 1870, in 1867 he was operating a “news emporium” at 708 Broadway. It had been described as early as 1865 as a “fashionable literary rendezvous” (New York Saturday Press, 5 August 1865, pp. 8, 15). And in 1866 Henry Clapp had written that “in addition to having the most extensive newspaper and periodical depot in the city, he is taking rank among the leading booksellers on Broadway” (New York Saturday Press, 26 May 1866, p. 4). Clemens originally wrote “Brentano . . . down middle”—then added Brentano's first name and the number of his Broadway address above the original entry.

In his 19 May Alta letter Clemens had complained that New York had been “wretchedly cold every night, and a good many of the days, too—most of them, I think. And, as for rain—well, it is California in winter all over again, and all the time” ( MTTB , p. 195). This entry can be clearly dated, however, because on 30 May the New York Herald reported that the “temperature yesterday was somewhat of a surprise after the curious weather which has been a sojourner with us since the advent of what ought to have been spring. The season seems to be making up for the deficiency in caloric which characterized its earlier stages, and yesterday bestowed upon us a genuine summer day.”

François de Salignac de La Mothe-Fénelon's Les aventures de Télémaque, fils d'Ulysse.

Robert Henry Newell, who wrote humorous sketches for the New York Sunday Mercury under the pseudonym of Orpheus C. Kerr, had actually been divorced from Adah Isaacs Menken in October 1865, although the Alta of 24 April 1867 insisted that the New York court had only recently granted the divorce. Clemens commented on Miss Menken's various husbands and lovers in his Alta letter of May 17: “She has a passion for connecting herself with distinguished people, and then discarding them as soon as the world has grown reconciled to the novelty of it and stopped talking about it” ( MTTB , p. 170).

This entry and the preceding one may have been written in late September, when Clemens visited the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, or perhaps as late as the end of the excursion. They are on an otherwise blank page, apparently chosen at random, near the beginning of the notebook.

In his letter to the Alta dated 19 May Clemens reported that he had visited the establishment of “Messrs. Perkins, Stern & Co., which is the New York department of the Kohler & Frohling house in San Francisco. . . . California wine is destined to become a very important article of trade, and the firm I speak of hope to get it all into their own hands eventually” ( MTTB , pp. 192–193). The firm was exhibiting California wines at the Paris Exposition, and their “request” may have been for some publicity through his letters to the Alta California. The heading “Paris Exposition.” was added later than the original entry.

Beginning here, Clemens wrote the entries through “Tangier . . . o” (p. 328.27) at different times on the back endpaper and facing side of the flyleaf.

These are the distances in statute miles between New York, the island of San Miguel in the Azores, and Gibraltar. (Because of bad weather, the Quaker City visited Fayal, one day closer to New York than San Miguel, the originally scheduled stop.) Although their meaning is not certain, the rough diagrams below this list may have been sketched to show the difference between a compass course and the great circle course between the same two points. On many maps and navigational charts, compass courses appear as straight lines, while great circle courses, which are actually shorter on the earth's surface, appear as arcs.

On 26 May Clemens remarked in a letter to the Alta about the American exodus for Europe: “I am afraid the French language will not be spoken in France much this year. I shall feel mighty sick if, after rubbing up my rusty French so diligently, I have to run the legs off myself skirmishing around Paris, hunting for such a sign as ‘Ici on parle Français’ ” ( MTTB , p. 236).

Clemens may have read Irving's The Alhambra: A Series of Tales and Sketches of the Moors and Spaniards in anticipation of a visit to Spain (see note 119).

Clemens records the letters he has sent from the Azores, Gibraltar, and Tangier. The second letter from Tangier is dated July 1.

This burlesque was inspired by the official Quaker City ship regulations, which, according to Captain Duncan, were struck off on the ship's printing press on 24 June. The passage is separated by one blank leaf from the back flyleaf and by one blank page from the next entry.

Clemens inverted the notebook and began a fresh page as he set out on the great “Excursion.”

Although the Quaker City left her berth at 2:00 P.M. on 8 June as planned, gale winds forced the ship to anchor in the protection of Gravesend Bay at 4:30 that afternoon.

The subject of “Mr. Brown's” pun may have been brought to mind by periodic raids New York police were making on faro banks, arresting owners and patrons and confiscating the gambling equipment.

Mrs. Severance wrote of Mrs. J. O. Green that she “seems not to be exactly sane, and has constantly with her a little black and tan terrier dog” ( JLS , p. 7).

Some aspects of this description forecast Clemens' portraits of Blucher and the Interrogation Point in The Innocents Abroad. It seems more likely, however, that the boisterous passenger was Clemens' friend Jack Van Nostrand of Greenville, New Jersey. Clemens' first impresssion of Van Nostrand may have been more negative than his later view, expressed in The Innocents Abroad: “One of our favorite youths . . . is a splendid young fellow with a head full of good sense, and a pair of legs that were a wonder to look upon in the way of length, and straightness, and slimness” (chapter 4).

Almost certainly Charles Jervis Langdon, then not quite eighteen years old. Clemens remarked to Langdon, after the latter had interrupted a card game in the smoking room of the Quaker City, “ ‘Young man, there's a prayer-meeting forward in the dining saloon and they need you there’ ” (Jervis Langdon, Samuel Langhorne Clemens: Some Reminiscences and Some Excerpts from Letters and Unpublished Manuscripts n.p., 1910?, p. 4). The illustration of Interrogation Point in chapter 7 of The Innocents Abroad bears a striking resemblance to contemporary photographs of Charlie Langdon.

The report of Maximilian's capture had been published in the New York Times on 28 May 1867.

Mrs. Severance reported that the text read: “ ‘If there be first a willing mind, it is accepted first, according to what a man hath, and not according to what he hath not’ ” ( JLS , p. 8), slightly modified from 2 Corinthians 8:12.

Harry E. Duncan, “a nice boy of eleven years of age, plays church music very well indeed,” according to Mrs. Severance ( JLS , p. 7).

The previous day Daniel D. Leary, one of the owners of the Quaker City, had been moved by the same impulse. He wrote his brother Arthur: “Duncan's sons have three or four dogs on board, and an accident will happen to them sure when nobody is looking (I mean the dogs)” (Lewis Leary, “More Letters from the Quaker City,” American Literature 42 May 1970: 198).

Captain Duncan recorded that at noon on 11 June the Quaker City hailed the Emerald Isle, which, according to the New York Times, had left Liverpool on 12 May.

Clemens often seemed more embarrassed than amused by Cutter, and he mentions him only twice in the Alta letters, first in the 30 June letter from Gibraltar. When Mark Twain wrote The Innocents Abroad, he dubbed Cutter “Poet Lariat” because Dr. Edward Andrews (“The Oracle”) “always distorted the phrase ‘Poet Laureate’ into Poet Lariat” ( MTMF , pp. 89–90). Cutter eventually published The Long Island Farmer's Poems, Lines Written on the “Quaker City” Excursion to Palestine, and Other Poems (New York, 1886). Clemens separated this sketch from earlier entries by two blank leaves and from subsequent ones by a single blank page.

Clemens left space for the “specimen” but did not supply one here, possibly because he included a couplet by Cutter at the end of the dialogue between Cutter and Dan Slote that follows.

As Duncan recorded in his log, Clemens, Moses S. Beach, and Dan Slote were appointed to escort Captain and Mrs. Duncan into the main saloon for the festivities. Dr. Albert Crane spoke briefly, followed by the main speaker, the Reverend E. Carter Hutchinson, then Dr. Edward Andrews, and finally Clemens himself. Mrs. Severance recorded most of what he said: “ ‘This is Mrs. Duncan's birthday. I make this statement to gain time. You have spoken of her youthful appearance, but I think she is old. Our life is not counted by years, but by what has been seen and accomplished. Methuselah was but a child when he died, though nine hundred and sixty-nine years old. The world did not improve any while he lived,—he tended his flocks just as his fathers did, and they none of them knew enough to make an iron fence. Mrs. Duncan has lived to see great improvements. . . .’ The whole of his remarks were humorous” ( JLS , pp. 12–13). Daniel D. Leary, writing to his brother Arthur on 1 July, gave a more cynical view of the proceedings: “a meeting was called, bunkum speeches made and the old woman crowned with myrtle. It was too ridiculous” (Lewis Leary, “More Letters from the Quaker City,” p. 199). For a fuller account of Clemens' remarks, see Dewey Ganzel's Mark Twain Abroad, pp. 44–45.

Mrs. Severance wrote that the “Court was very well conducted, and proved a laughable affair. Mr. Clemens is the ruling spirit and a capital person for ocean life” ( JLS , p. 14). Room 10 was, of course, Clemens' stateroom.

See note 2.

This anecdote was first mentioned in Notebook 7, p. 253. Its fullest version appears in chapter 50 of Roughing It.

This is a variation on the punch line to the anecdote Mark Twain told in his 2 June Alta letter. See note 45.

Probably a reference to Bloodgood Cutter, who, as Clemens wrote earlier in this notebook (p. 334), was composing doggerel verses “on all possible subjects, & gets them printed on slips of paper, with his portrait at the head.”

Jacob Samils Haldeman served in the Pennsylvania legislature from 1850 to 1855, and from 1861 to 1864 was United States minister resident to Sweden and Norway. Mrs. Severance wrote on 18 June: “He is a very peculiar man, I could imagine him to be a gambler. He wears a red flannel shirt on which are printed hunting figures. Every day he brings out a new necktie, and on his small feet he wears the tightest of patent leather boots. I am told he has been strongly addicted to drinking, and came abroad at this time to try to break up the habit. In endeavoring to do this, he is much of the time under the influence of morphine, and always appears exceedingly peculiar” ( JLS , pp. 16–17).

The Reverend George W. Quereau.

Clemens neglected to mention that he was also one of the speakers who “enlightened the Club” with “remarks touching the ports to be visited,” as Captain Duncan recorded (CCD, 19 June). His notebook entries on the Azores were influenced by the fact that, as he told the Tribune readers in his 23 June letter: “Out of our whole ship's company there was not a solitary individual who knew anything whatever about them” except that “they were a group of nine or ten small islands far out in the Atlantic, something more than half-way between New-York and Gibraltar. That was all.” As he wrote in one of his final Alta letters, the ship's library had been of little help; nearing Gibraltar they “could hardly find out from any book on board whether Gibraltar was a rock, or an island, or a statue, or a piece of poetry.” For these reasons he added “a paragraph of dry facts” to his 23 June Tribune letter ( TIA , pp. 16, 304).

Mrs. Severance recorded that William E. James, the official photographer for the excursion, had introduced his magic lantern show with a picture of the well-known Brooklyn cemetery by saying, “ ‘They are mostly of places where we expect to go’ ” ( JLS , p. 17). Clemens decided to include the grotesque joke in chapter 4 of The Innocents Abroad: James “advertised that he would ‘open his performance in the after cabin . . . and show the passengers where they shall eventually arrive’ . . . and the first picture that flamed out upon the canvas was a view of Greenwood Cemetery!”

Daniel Leary wrote his brother on 1 July: “As you are probably aware the captain is a psalm singer and quite a number of others on board and they managed to get up quite a ‘revival’ among themselves. They commenced with services once on Sunday, and finally we had it every evening and twice on Sunday, which did not suit myself or about a dozen other of the best people on board” (Lewis Leary, “More Letters from the Quaker City,” p. 199).

According to Dr. Jackson in the New York Herald for 21 November 1867: “In a few hours the printing press was put in operation, and the first number of the Quaker Mirror, a paper six by eight inches in size, appeared, and was supplied to subscribers at the modest price of ten cents per copy, the reputed editor and proprietor being a son of the manager that is, Duncan. As it only contained an editorial which had been published before in a New York daily, and which everybody on board had read, together with some advertisements from the same paper which nobody wished to read, it created but little enthusiasm, and the subscribers even cruelly withdrew their names, so that the first number of the Mirror was also the last.”

That is, early in the morning of June 20.

On 20 June, when Clemens came in sight of the Azores, he was only about three hours ahead of New York time and seven ahead of San Francisco time. He inserted “(Constantinople)” above the original sentence to remind himself to use the joke in a letter from a more distant time zone, and on 22 August he wrote from Odessa: “The difference in time between Sebastopol and Sacramento is enormous. When it is six o'clock in the morning here, it is week before last in California” ( TIA , p. 137).

Brown would certainly have been confused if he had slowed his watch down to compensate for its losing twenty minutes each day. In his first letter to the New York Tribune Clemens corrected the error: William Blucher “from the far West” reports that he has “ ‘set that old regulator up faster and faster, till I've shoved it clear around, but it don't do any good; she just cleans out every watch in the ship, and clatters along in a way that's astonishing till it is noon, but then them eight bells always gets in about ten minutes ahead of her anyway’ ” ( TIA , p. 11).

Clemens frequently ridiculed this kind of affectation, and this entry probably prompted the passage in chapter 23 of The Innocents Abroad which described some “Americans abroad in Italy who have actually forgotten their mother tongue in three months—forgot it in France.” Clemens also reported that a “lady passenger of ours tells of a fellow-citizen of hers who spent eight weeks in Paris and then returned home and addressed his dearest old bosom friend Herbert as Mr. ‘Er-bare!’ ” The affectation was particularly annoying because of Clemens' prejudice against the French: “Oh, it is pitiable to see the American tourist making of himself a thing that is neither male nor female, neither fish, flesh, nor fowl—a poor, miserable, hermaphrodite Frenchman!”

Charles W. Dabney was the current United States consul to the Azores. “His father” was the former consul, John B. Dabney.

Probably Samuel W. Dabney, who would succeed his father Charles as United States consul in 1872, and John P. Dabney, who would be appointed deputy consul in 1873.

Clemens told his Alta readers in his letter from the Azores that “Two of the junior Dabney's married daughters of Professor Webster, who was executed in Boston twelve or fifteen years ago, for the murder of Dr. Parkman. The girls were very young then, but highly educated and accomplished. The Webster family removed to Fayal immediately after their great misfortune came upon them, to hide their sorrows from a curious world, and have remained here in exile ever since. . . . I did not recognize them in the fine, matronly, dignified ladies we saw to-day” ( TIA , pp. 4–5). Professor John W. Webster was hanged on 30 August 1850 for the murder of Dr. George Parkman.

Moses S. Beach wrote to the New York Sun that “the great attraction of the neighborhood seemed to be the gardens of Mr. Silviera, the only competitor in that line, of the Dabneys” (“Editorial Correspondence,” 31 July 1867).

Russ pavements were “composed of blocks of granite, set on a bed of crushed stone and cement” (John A. Kouwenhoven, The Columbia Historical Portrait of New York New York: Doubleday & Co., 1953, p. 247). Clemens wrote to the Alta: “They talk much of the Russ pavement in New York, and call it a new invention—yet here they have been using it in this remote little isle of the sea for two hundred years! Every street in Horta is handsomely paved with the heavy Russ blocks, and the surface is neat and true as a floor—not marred by holes like broadway” ( TIA , p. 9).

A phonetic approximation of a form of the Portuguese verb chegar, sometimes used idiomatically to mean “get up!” In chapter 6 of The Innocents Abroad Mark Twain wrote that the muleteers “banged the donkeys with their goad-sticks, and pricked them with their spikes, and shouted something that sounded like ‘Sekkiyah!’ ” He added the word in the left margin lengthwise, beside the previous paragraph.

The vineyards of the Azores had been destroyed about 1854 by a parasitic fungus.

Matriz Cathedral had been built in 1670 in the center of the old Jesuit college. Clemens told his Alta readers that its altar was “a perfect mass of gilt jim-cracks and gingerbread, and reminded me of the tawdry trumpery of the Chinese Temple in San Francisco” ( TIA , p. 7).

Two weekly newspapers, O Fayalense and O Atlantico, were being published in Horta at the time of Clemens' visit, but at least ten other papers were being published among the other islands, primarily San Miguel and Terceira.

Clemens wrote this sentence diagonally across the previous paragraph, and he wrote the next two sentences lengthwise in the margin and extending over the previous two paragraphs. The additions were probably made in connection with his 23 June letter to the Tribune, where he used these details to introduce an anecdote which is described in note 111. The Tribune letter discussed the cumbersome regional costume and read in part: “She was becalmed. Or rather, she was laying-to, around a corner, waiting for the wind to change” ( TIA , p. 14).

On 27 June Mrs. Severance remarked that there were

at least a dozen correspondents for different papers: Mrs. Fairbanks, “Cleveland Herald”; Mr. Crocker, “Cleveland Leader”; Mr. Foster, “The Pittsburgh Dispatch”; Mr. Clemens, “The California Alta” and “The New York Tribune”; Mr. Beach, “The New York Sun”; Mr. Sanford (I think) for a Granville Ohio paper; Dr. Jackson for one in Philadelphia the Monroe County (Pa.) Democrat ; Mr. Bullard for one in Boston; Dr. Hutchinson for one in St. Louis. Captain Duncan urged me very strongly to write for him a letter which he had promised to send to the “Independent,” and I have done so, but I confess to feeling poorly satisfied with my effort.” ( JLS , p. 33)

In addition, Stephen M. Griswold and William E. James both wrote occasional letters for the Brooklyn Daily Eagle; John G. Isham for the Cincinnati Commercial; Julius Moulton for the Saint Louis Missouri Republican, and Julia Newell for the Janesville (Wis.) Gazette. Only Mrs. Fairbanks, Moses Beach, and Julia Newell were as regular as Mark Twain in their correspondence, and no one wrote as much as he did. But the initial excitement of the Azores must have fired the ambitions of less experienced journalists, whose interest waned as the journey progressed.

In his letter to the Alta Clemens commented on the contrast: “they scorn threshing-machines and all other unholy inventions with the true Jesuit wisdom, which says that ignorance is bliss and progress is sedition. . . . Now, how long do you suppose a Yankee would stand there before he would invent some way of making that trough shake, and feed the mill intelligently itself?” ( TIA , p. 5).

The high spirits evident in this account were predictably excluded from Clemens' Alta letter from Horta. Their “ten-mile excursion” around the “breezy hills and through the beautiful cañons” of Fayal was momentarily interrupted when Brown's donkey “turned a corner suddenly, and Brown went over his head. And, to speak truly, every mule stumbled over the two, and the whole cavalcade was piled up in a heap” ( TIA , pp. 9, 8).

Julia Newell and Moses Beach also reported that the muleteers sang a corrupted version of “John Brown's Body.” Beach wrote that the last line of the song was distorted to “ ‘Lowry-allelu-a-go marchy on-no’ ” (“Editorial Correspondence,” New York Sun, 31 July 1867). Clemens wrote to the Alta that the last two lines were “We 'ang Jeffah Davis on sowlah applah tree, / So we go molloching on!” ( TIA , p. 10).

The sketch of Pico's silhouette and the view of its mountain (p. 347) were presumably drawn as the ship departed “Sunday noon” June 23.

On 22 June, Julia Newell wrote the Janesville (Wis.) Gazette: “A poor old crone, with just one tooth, started after us from some corner, and commenced imploring charity by gestures, rolling up her eyes and kissing her hands to us. One of the gentlemen slyly motioned her to Mark Twain, so she persistently followed at his elbow, and he commenced talking to her in the most grave and confidential tone, saying—‘My dear madam, I don't know what it can be in my appearance which has so fascinated you. I assure you I look much better when I have on my best clothes. It is impossible for me to return your affections, for I am engaged—but for that it might be otherwise’ ” (23 July 1867). Mark Twain's version of the encounter was included at some length in his letter to the Tribune (see TIA , pp. 14–15) but was omitted from The Innocents Abroad.

Clemens may still have been thinking of a projected Sandwich Islands book, which he had only recently decided not to publish. This entry is followed in the notebook by two pages of drawings and by one blank page.

Following “Ball No. 2” Clemens led the evening devotions, according to Captain Duncan's log (CCD, 24 June).

Head winds and rough weather had seriously impeded the progress of the Quaker City, but there may have been another difficulty. Daniel Leary wrote to his brother on 1 July from Gibraltar that “the coal given us at New York was most miserable, 25% of it composed of slate. We never had more than eighteen lbs. steam when we should have had 25 lbs. average consumption 29 tons daily. Tell D'Oyly about this coal business, it was outrageous to pack off such stuff on us” (Lewis Leary, “More Letters from the Quaker City,” p. 200).

Saturday would have been June 29. Captain Duncan's log confirms that they entered the strait on that day.

The foibles of Dr. Edward Andrews (“The Oracle”) were roundly lampooned in Mark Twain's Alta letter of 30 June: “ ‘Some authors states it that way, and some states it different. Old Gibbons don't say nothing about it—just shirks it complete—Gibbons always done that when he got stuck—but there is Rolampton, what does he say? Why he says that they was both on the same side, and Trinculian, and Sobaster, and Syracus, and Langomarganbl—’ ” ( TIA , pp. 23–24).

Clemens interlined the fragment “ ‘clouds & darkness . . . locality.” below “robed in misty gloom,” and above “a more magnifi-
” continuing into the right margin. When he came to write his 30 June Alta letter from Gibraltar, he described the African hills in his first paragraph: “their bases vailed in a blue haze and their summits swathed in clouds—the same being according to Scripture, which says that ‘clouds and darkness are over the land.’ The words were spoken of this particular portion of Africa, I believe” ( TIA , p. 18). Clemens may have had Exodus 14:20 in mind, but the “cloud and darkness” mentioned there of course refer to a different part of Africa: Moses stretched forth his hand “that there may be darkness over the land of Egypt” (Exodus 10:21).

Mark Twain's revisions of this passage in the 30 June Alta letter further point up his prevailing mood. After heightening the effect of the “Stars and Stripes” on his readers, he added: “Many a one on our decks knew then for the first time how tame a sight his country's flag is at home compared to what it is in a foreign land. To see it is to see a vision of home itself and all its idols, and feel a thrill that would stir a river of sluggish blood” ( TIA , p. 19).

Evidently general indecision and the prospect of a sixty-hour train ride prevented Clemens from accompanying Moses Beach and several other passengers on a side trip through Spain (see note 123). The glowing report he sent the Alta on 1 July explains Clemens' determination to “go” to Tangier.

Dr. Jackson wrote to the Monroe County (Pa.) Democrat on 30 June that this incident “afforded some amusement, and at the same time exemplified considerable tact on the part of at least one of the persons concerned,” and that it prompted Clemens to say that “he could not remember having ever injured that lady and consequently could not account for the amount of sarcasm she had be-stowed upon him.”

These were the two principal hotels in Gibraltar at this time and, according to A Handbook for Travellers in Spain, 4th ed. (London: John Murray, 1869), “old established and comfortable” (p. 328).

What the landlord lied about has not been discovered, but Murray's Handbook for 1869 explained that “steamers leave Gibraltar several times a week for Tangiers, making the passage in about 4½ hours. The passage across the straits is agreeable, although the strong currents in the centre often occasion a heavy sea. . . . There is no mole nor landing-place, so passengers must first enter boats to approach the strand, and then make use of the backs of the Tangerine porters, who will wade with them ashore” (p. 338).

According to Captain Duncan's log (30 June), Moses S. Beach, his daughter Emeline, Thomas S. Beckwith, the Reverend Henry Bullard, Charles J. Langdon, and S. N. Sanford had set out for Spain the previous day. They planned to sail for Cadiz, then overland to Madrid and across Spain to Paris, rejoining the Quaker City in Italy.

Clemens' visit to the Genista caves sparked strong interest in the implications of geological and biological discoveries which had only recently been made. As he wrote to the Alta on 30 June: “In this cave, likewise, are found skeletons and fossils of animals that exist in every part of Africa, yet within memory and tradition have never existed in any portion of Spain save this lone peak of Gibraltar! So the theory is that the channel between Gibraltar and Africa was once dry land” ( TIA , p. 22).

Respectively, the British and Spanish sentry boxes.

The lighthouse at Cape Spartel, Morocco, and the one at Tarifa, Spain, marked the southern and northern sides of the mouth of the Strait of Gibraltar.

Clemens' perennial interest in nautical matters was probably stimulated by the boat trip to Tangier, which could only be reached from Gibraltar by going west-ward through the strait. The captain of the local steamer which made the trip several times a week doubtless knew what the “charts” and the foreign “vessels” did not. Clemens added these last two sentences across and in the left margin of the preceding paragraph at a later time, probably in an attempt to clarify how the flood tide could be used to counteract adverse winds.

Mark Twain explained, in his first Alta letter from Tangier, that, since “there is no regular system of taxation,” the “soulless despot” would “levy on some rich man and he has to furnish the cash or go to prison. So, few men in Morocco dare to be rich. . . . Every now and then the Emperor imprisons a man who is suspected of the crime of being rich, and makes things so uncomfortable for him that he is forced to discover where he has hidden his money” ( TIA , p. 30).

Hadji Said Quesus was Morocco's consular representative at this time.

Between 1863 and 1867 there had been at least four cases of atrocities committed against Moroccan Jews. The incident referred to by Clemens is most similar to one that took place in the coastal town of Saffi. Clemens' account to his Alta readers does not mention that the victims were Jewish and wavers between sympathy for them (and antipathy for the Moors) and a kind of grisly humor: “Moorish guns are not good and neither are Moorish marksmen. In this instance they set up the poor criminals at long range, like so many targets, and practiced on them—kept them hopping about and dodging bullets for half an hour before they managed to drive the centre” ( TIA , pp. 31–32).

Mrs. Fairbanks reported to the Cleveland Herald that they “were rejoined by others of our passengers, who had made an excursion into Morocco and had returned in safety from the Emperor's dominions, bearing with them some forty pounds of the 'latest dates'” (25 July 1867).

Since Fez was 130 miles southeast of Tangier, it is unlikely that Clemens traveled to the holy city. It was almost certainly Lady Hay (not Hill), wife of Sir John Hay Drummond-Hay, British minister resident to Morocco, who had made the unprecedented visit.

Currencies used in Tangier included Spanish, Moroccan, French, and even British coins. In his first letter from Tangier Clemens reported that “Brown went out to get a Napoleon changed, . . . and came back and said he had 'cleaned out the bank; had bought eleven gallons of coin, and the head of the firm had gone on the street to negotiate for the balance of the change.' I bought nearly half a pint of their money for a shilling myself” ( TIA , p. 29). Clemens sent two “Moorish coins of Tangier” home to his family (SLC to “Dr. Folks,” 2 July 1867, transcribed from the manuscript by Dixon Wecter in his corrected copy of MTL , p. 131; volume in MTP).

Spain, which had occupied Ceuta since 1580, declared war on Morocco in October 1859 and entered Tetuan (only twenty miles from Ceuta) in February 1860. After defeating the Moors, Spain signed a peace treaty in August 1860 which allowed for the payment of an indemnity of approximately $20,000,000. Britain, however, objected to Spain's holding Tetuan as a pledge until the indemnity was paid and so raised a loan in January 1862 to pay Spain £500,000 ($2,500,000). The entire indemnity was guaranteed by a lien on Moroccan customs receipts, which were shared equally by England and Spain until 1883 and then went to Spain alone until 1887. This last condition perhaps explains why, in Clemens' words, the “Emperor don't allow anything to be exported” (p. 353.9).

In his second letter from Tangier Clemens reported that “from the time they leave till they get home again they never wash, either on land or sea. They are usually gone from five to seven months, and as they do not change their clothes during all that time, they are totally unfit for the drawing-room when they get back” ( TIA , p. 33). This and the previous entry have been struck through in brown ink, probably after Clemens included them in his Alta letter.

“Bigamy is also legal, though uncommon, especially among the Castilian section of the coast Jews, whose marriage contracts provide that a second wife may be taken only at the request of the first wife” (Budgett Meakin, The Moors London: Swan Sonnenschein & Co., 1902, p. 443).

This entry and the one above beginning “Koran” have been struck through in brown ink. Clemens used the entry about the Koran, but not this entry, in his Tangier letters. His fascination with the Jewish population in Morocco was, however, fully expressed: “Here are five thousand Jews in blue gaberdines, sashes about their waists, slippers upon their feet, . . the selfsame fashion their Tangier ancestors have worn for a thousand years” ( TIA , p. 27). And later: “Now these fellows worship just as Moses did; their habits and customs are just as they were in Biblical times; . . . all of which is to say that they are an inconceivably rusty-looking set now and consequently must have been in the days of the Old Testament—and how they ever came to be the chosen people of the Lord is a mystery which will stagger me from this day forth till I perish” ( TIA , p. 33).

Clemens was right about the stone, but not about the durability of construction. “The material used in construction, rough stone and mortar work in which there is far too much of the latter, and that of an inferior quality, renders all the local buildings short-lived” (Budgett Meakin, The Land of the Moors London: Swan Sonnenschein & Co., 1901, p. 95).

Dr. Jackson wrote the Monroe County (Pa.) Democrat, somewhat naively, that “the Moors, like all orientals, are inveterate smokers. They do not generally use the tobacco plant, but a preparation made from the dried leaves of the hemlock, and which, in Arabic, is called keef. It is smoked in very small pipes and produces quickly a peculiarly soothing effect” (letter dated 2 July 1867). A typescript in the Mark Twain Papers indicates that Clemens brought home a “small moorish pipe & tobacco.”

This episode was reported in the second Alta letter from Tangier and in chapter 9 of The Innocents Abroad. In the first case the adventurer was Mr. Brown and in the second Mr. Blucher, indicating once again that the Brown/Blucher pseudonym was readily transferable.

Jesse H. McMath had assumed the duties of United States consul at Tangier in 1862. Clemens described his visit with McMath in the second Alta letter from Tangier: “I noticed that all possible games for parlor amusement seemed to be represented on his centre-tables. I thought that hinted at lonesomeness. The notion was correct. . . . Tangier is full of interest for one day, but after that it is a weary prison. Mr. McMath has been here five years, and has got enough, and is going home shortly” ( TIA , p. 35).

Admiral David Glasgow Farragut would relieve Rear-Admiral Louis Males-herbes Goldsborough as commander of the European squadron of the U.S. Navy on 14 July 1867 at Cherbourg, France. In addition to the flagship Colorado, the fleet included the Ticonderoga, Augusta, Swatara, Shamrock, Canandaigua, Frolic, Miantonomoh, Guard, and Ino.

The Miantonomoh was a very large ironclad, heavily armed, of 3,400 tons. The Frolic was only a small side-wheel steamer of 880 tons and the Swatara a slightly larger gunboat of 1,120 tons.

The Ticonderoga was a large, heavily armed, second-class screw sloop of more than 2,520 tons. Clemens interlined the fragment “talked about it a month” without a caret, above “Moors,” breaking his original sentence.

On 18 January 1862, early in the American Civil War, Captain Raphael Semmes had anchored his coal-less, disabled Confederate cruiser, Sumter, at Gibraltar. While at least five federal warships were occupied with guarding his sanctuary, Semmes went in search of coal, which he eventually procured, and patched the boilers, only to discover that they would not withstand operating pressure. After arranging to dispose of the ship and discharge the crew, Semmes left Gibraltar to return to the Confederate states on 14 April 1862. On 23 April 1863, according to contemporary State Department records, Consul McMath formally demanded that the Moroccan government deny port permission to Confederate ships, upon threat of seizure. The Moroccan government, probably reluctant to take sides in the conflict, did not comply until 23 September 1863, when the appropriate orders were issued to all the bashaws in the ports of Morocco.

Clemens had obviously been gossiping with Consul McMath about Civil War days. On 19 February 1862, McMath's zealous predecessor as consul at Tangier, James De Long, had employed Moroccan soldiers to arrest two Confederate citizens: Tom Tate Tunstall, an Alabamian whom Lincoln had fired from his post as United States consul at Cadiz, and another Southerner, Lieutenant Henry F. Myers, paymaster of the Confederate privateer Sumter. Both men had come to Tangier in search of coal for the disabled Sumter, and their arrest by a foreign government at the behest of the American consul was certainly illegal. The two captives were placed aboard the U.S.S. Ino despite vigorous protest from other members of the foreign colony at Tangier. “When Lieutenant Commanding Josiah P. Creesy of Ino threatened the mob with his sword, they started throwing stones at the Union forces.” The men were returned to Boston, imprisoned at Fort Warren, and eventually paroled. (See Charles G. Summersell, The Cruise of C.S.S. Sumter Tuscaloosa, Alabama: Confederate Publishing Co., 1965, pp. 165–166.)

On 6 August 1844 the French fleet had bombarded Tangier's walls and fortifications for three hours.

In his first Alta letter from Tangier Clemens exuberantly catalogued the variety of “people that are foreign and curious to look upon” in that city, including “original, genuine negroes, as black as Moses” ( TIA , p. 26).

Antaeus.

Clemens probably read the passage, which derives from Procopius' History of the Wars, in one of the Quaker City's guidebooks or histories. Gibbon, in commenting on the Moors, says of this passage: “I believe in the columns—I doubt the inscription—and I reject the pedigree” (The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, ed. Henry H. Milman, 6 vols. Boston: Phillips Sampson, & Co., 1856, 4:142).

“An hour and a half's ride beyond the Cape Spartel, at Mediána, are extensive caves opening on to the shore, which have been quarried immemorially for querns or mill-stones, and which are popularly held to be those of Hercules, described by Pomponius Mela” (Meakin, Land of the Moors, p. 111).

Probably the Roman city of Volubilis, near Meknes, 125 miles south of Tangier. At the time of the Quaker City excursion these ruins were called Kasar Faráôn (Citadel of the Pharaoh) (Meakin, Land of the Moors, p. 280).

“There are many cases of white spots, but leprosy is not very common. Dr. Gerhard Rohlfs considered the disease . . . usually described as leprosy, to be rather constitutional syphilis arrived at a stage unknown in Europe” (Meakin, The Moors, p. 211).

Clemens used this and the previous paragraph in his second Alta letter from Tangier, distorting the truth of his note for humorous effect in a way which he usually shunned: “I have caught a glimpse of the faces of several Moorish women (for they are only human, and will expose their faces for the admiration of a Christian dog when no he-Moor is by,) and I am full of veneration for the wisdom that leads them to cover up such atrocious ugliness. If I had a wife as ugly as some of those I have seen, I would go over her face with a nail-grab and see if I couldn't improve it” ( TIA , p. 32). These two paragraphs have been struck through in brown ink; the last sentence of the Alta passage was deleted from The Innocents Abroad, chapter 9.

The Quaker City passenger, R. A. H. Bell of Portsmouth, Ohio. None of the other travelers to Tangier gives the incident in any detail.

Although a precise date for this list of questions has not been established, the testimony of Captain Duncan's log states that the ship's debating club first met on the evening of 20 June, the day before arriving at Horta. Clemens appears to have arbitrarily entered the questions on two separate, unfilled leaves toward the back of the book, writing with the notebook upside-down. Later in June, as he made notes on Tangier, he found the list in his way and wrote around it.

James C. L. Wadsworth had been part-owner of the Gould & Curry silver mine in Virginia City from 1860 to 1864. After his resignation from the mining firm, his fortune declined until in 1870 he was almost penniless. San Francisco readers were familiar with him, for in his 2 February 1867 Alta letter Clemens had mentioned that “Jemmy” Wadsworth was staying at New York's Metropolitan Hotel. And M. G. Upton, the Alta's Paris correspondent, reported that Wadsworth had been in Paris in June (31 July 1867). Finally, Clemens noted in his second letter from Tangier: “Looking over the register of the Royal Victoria Hotel a while ago, I came across the name of J. C. L. Wadsworth, of San Francisco, under date of April 27th. How came he to wander to this out-of-the-way place?” ( TIA , p. 35).

The Riffians were the Berber tribes inhabiting the Rif Mountains of Morocco. Among the Berbers “highwaymen are in great repute, and plunder of passers-by is looked upon as a respectable means of subsistence” (Meakin, The Moors, p. 401). Murray's Handbook for Travellers in Spain (1869) instructed tourists traveling outside the city of Tangier “to apply to the English or U.S.A. consul for an escort,” explaining that the escort, “usually selected from the sultan's body-guard,” would be “responsible with his life for the safe return of his charge” (p. 339).

It was commonly believed, but without any basis in fact, that the queen of Spain sat in the tower on the summit of the Sierra Carbonera during the Great Siege of Gibraltar (1779–1783), refusing to leave until the British flag had been lowered. Out of compassion for the queen, General George Augustus Eliott, governor of Gibraltar and commander of the British troops there, was said to have lowered the flag so that she might depart with honor. Clemens made the yarn, if possible, even more tiresome in chapter 7 of The Innocents Abroad.

Emendations and Doubtful Readings

loveliness • possibly ‘loneliness’

midnight • mid- | night

pop-eyed • pop- | eyed

work • very doubtful

sea-sick • sea- | sick

sea-sickness • sea- | sickness

bly-ak • bly- | ak

seasick • possibly ‘sea-sick’

sea-sick • sea- | sick

let up • possibly ‘let-up’

weather • wea weather corrected miswriting

overcoat • over- | coat

Jurymen • possibly ‘Jury men’

woodcut • possibly ‘wood-cut’

blackfish • black- | fish

overboard • possibly ‘over board’

snow-white • possibly ‘snow white’

250 • 250 | 250

checker-boarded • checker- | boarded

barefooted • bare- | footed

checker-boards • possibly ‘checker boards’

best dressed • possibly ‘best-dressed’

Portℓ • possibly ‘Porte’

fell • f fell

little • possibly ‘like’

June • June June corrected miswriting

bold • possibly ‘bald’

lighthouses • possibly ‘light-houses’

town • town town corrected miswriting

sen • possibly ‘sin’ or ‘sw’

the Encin • cancellation of ‘the’ implied

one • possibly ‘our’

contact • possibly ‘contract’

bbls • doubtful

star-lit • star- | lit

to-night • to- | night

Textual Notes

Brown . . . Tangier 3 written in brown ink

Tangier 3 written lengthwise in the right margin of the front endpaper

Mark Twain . . . No. 12. ‘Mark Twain . . . N.Y.’ written diagonally across the recto of the front flyleaf; ‘Edwin . . . Chicago.’ written above ‘Mark Twain . . . N.Y.’ at a later time; ‘Upton . . . No. 12.’ written at the foot of the flyleaf with the notebook inverted, also at a later time

3d. 34 originally ‘3d.’; then ‘4’ written over superscript ‘d.’; then ‘34’ canceled

9th Ave. the bottom quarter of the page is blank below this entry

✗ use marks added on this page and on 006v

Gathersing . . . window five entries struck through with a vertical line in brown ink

Gathersing ‘ing’ written over ‘s’

192 ✗ ‘✗’ written over previously canceled ‘192’

Libertines . . . spree two entries boxed on three sides

That . . . loveliness entry struck through in brown ink with a large ‘X’, almost certainly serving as a use mark, thus not transcribed as a cancellation; see also note 16

Architecture of Academy written in brown ink

are al all are ‘all’ written over ‘are’ and ‘are’ written over ‘al’

French . . . landlord. written in brown ink

Racing— the bottom quarter of the page is blank below this entry

Johnston . . . grandmother! struck through with two wavy vertical lines in brown ink

Must . . . languages. struck through with two wavy vertical lines in brown ink

Return-ball . . . now struck through with three wavy vertical lines in brown ink

Artemus Ward's body— struck through with a wavy line in brown ink; the line is most likely a use mark, so it has not been transcribed as a cancellation; see also note 41

union . . . grog. struck through with three diagonal lines in brown ink

interrupted interfered ‘interfered’ written over ‘interrupted’

performes exercises ‘exercises’ written over ‘performes’

The Cooper . . . Assn written in brown ink

Dr. . . . Olive written in brown ink in the top margin of the page

Would . . . anyway. written lengthwise in the left margin of the page beside the six preceding entries

708. written above the first line of the following paragraph

August Brentano ‘August’ interlined without a caret

Orpheus | Divorced there is a brace to the right of this entry; the bottom half of the page below this entry and the following page are blank

3800 . . . Gibraltar. written at the bottom of the back endpaper with the notebook inverted

Irving's Spain Moors. written in brown ink

Alta . . . 0 written in brown ink

work. half of the page is blank below this entry

soul. the bottom quarter of the page is blank below this entry

forncation the bottom quarter of the page is blank below this entry

ship,.— a flourish originally ending the entry on the line below ‘ship.’ was overwritten and the entry was continued; the comma and the dash were probably added

burn,— a flourish originally ending the entry on the line below ‘burn,’ was overwritten and the entry was continued; the dash was probably added

These . . . nautilli. written in the top margin of the page above ‘hanging down—saw’

blackfish.— a flourish originally ending the entry on the line below ‘blackfish.’ was overwritten and the entry was continued; the period mended to a dash

Mroses ‘o’ written over ‘r’

I c we large ‘w’ written over ‘c’

(Constantinople) apparently squeezed into line above first entry

Questions . . . state? written with the notebook held right side up on two right-hand pages apparently selected at random in the middle of the notebook; subsequently engulfed by the unrelated entries around it

Full chaffinch | & canaries. written lengthwise in the left margin of the page beside the preceding entry

havlf ‘If’ written over ‘v’

Portuguese ‘ese’ written over ‘u’

sekki-yo! written lengthwise in the left margin of the page beside the preceding entry

mostly. a quarter of the page is blank below this entry

Place . . . barefoot. written diagonally across the preceding paragraph

Have . . . head wind. written diagonally across the first sentence of the preceding paragraph

Woman waiting . . . texture. written lengthwise along the left margin of the page across portions of the preceding entries, ‘common . . . perhaps’

thiseir ‘eir’ written over ‘is’

The party follows three blank lines at the top of the page

Daughters . . . Alva. written in brown ink

canvas. the bottom quarter of the page is blank below this entry

port. the bottom quarter of the page is blank below this entry

“clouds . . . locality. interlined without a caret below ‘robed in misty gloom’ and above ‘a more magnifi-’ and continued into the right margin

waere ‘ere’ written over ‘a’

hours?. the question mark mended to a period

Brown Dan

Genesta-something originally ‘Gen-something’; ‘esta’ interlined above the dash at a later point; ‘something’ left uncanceled

Tangier, Morocco. written in brown ink

Algiers ria ‘ria’ written over ‘iers’

Cape Spartel . . . same boxed

flood tide goes . . . out. written lengthwise along the left margin of the page across part of the preceding paragraph

Morrocco ‘o’ written over ‘r’

Man . . . with stones. this and the previous entry struck through with a vertical wavy line in brown ink

Koran . . . & Morocco. this and the previous struck through with vertical lines in brown ink

talked . . . month interlined without a caret above ‘the Moors with great’

sentayed ‘ta’ written over ‘en’

500. a flourish originally ending the entry on the line below was overwritten and the entry was continued

statues. | there yet. cancellation of period implied

Moorish . . . she him. this and the previous paragraph struck through with a vertical line in brown ink

Junely ‘ly’ written over ‘ne’

8 10.50 ‘0’ of ‘10’ written over ‘8’

18767 ‘6’ written over what appears to be ‘7’

Curious . . . people. written in brown ink

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